Branbb60

You're brave posting this on here with me and rant about

Please be gentle

Quanta costa? Where is? etc...

Would sell for £550. The bike is located in Nuneaton.

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201604203158101" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hello,

I'm selling my Lexmoto Arizona 125cc as I have passed my driving test and need the money for insurance.

I love this bike it has never let me down! Great starter bike. Easy to tinker with.

PM for more details, pictures are too follow.

Thanks, Brandon.

So after coming off my bike I've managed to do some repairs!

I changed the speedo cable, indicator and the headlight.

May seem very basic too a a lot of people here but i'm quite proud of myself!

All is left is the handlebars and to purchase a new tank and the bike will be basically like new!

the only reason the brake lever would not work is if it is broken i suggest you check the actuating arm in the master cylinder and make sure it isnt stuck in and it could also be air trapped in the brake line somewhere

It was broken on the valve that is pushed in as you squeeze the lever. It wasn't coming back fast enough and it wasn't sending break fluid down the lines.

You can't ride your bike to your CBT I think you said in other thread you wanted to ride it ASAP after CBT so just ignore me if so.

Yeah I know, I passed however. Just need to get my bike sorted and hopefully we're good to go

Hello,

My break lever broken so now I've bought a new one.

I'm attempting to attach this all up but when I screw the break hose into the master cylinder it appears to just dribble out of the part where it screws into.

https://gyazo.com/4d55b9d3ae1c649b3c5c56bacf0accd1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image above is where it is coming from when the cable is attached.

Any suggestions on how I could fix this?

Thanks, Brandon.

There are dealers in Coventry and Leamington. Try phoning them and see if they have anything on the shelf. Otherwise it looks like EBay shops and nothing till Wednesday

Found somewhere in Coventry £12!

Thank you for the suggestion buddy!

Hello.

My front break lever does not work, for some reason the lever does not intake break fluid from the valve inside the reservoir.

I have had someone look at it and they said I will most likely need a new one.

My CBT is Saturday and I was hoping to get going on Sunday but at this moment in time it appears unlikely without a front break.

With it being good Friday, everywhere is closed.

Not sure what to do here, anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Awesome, glad to hear the engine is going strong!

My track record with front brakes is a tad colourful... Might be best to get advice from one of the others on that one

Well unfortunately it appears the front break lever is broken. The intake valve is very worn and now it doesn't seem to suck in any break fluid.

It looks like being ride ready by Saturday is looking unlikely as i'm going to need a new one.

Good stuff! Now you've got it behaving, we should still quickly check that there isn't any issue with the idle. After all, you don't want it to die the first time you stop at a red light! If you start it with the choke on and let it run for a couple of minutes, does it cut out immediately when you take the choke off? Or does it run ok without choke after warming up? Fingers crossed it'll be fine, I'm hoping it was just cold starting that was the issue rather than the idle.

Good thing you've got the kick start! I always kick start my CG... but then, it doesn't have an electric starter

I'm not so good on electrics, someone else will have to help with sorting the starter button.

What's up with the front brake?

Nope after I take the choke off we're all running with no problems, still got the motor going!

The front break is spongy, I've tried flushing the break fluid out but it doesn't seem to come out of the hole. I have unscrewed the nossle on the wheel but it's still only dribbling out.

I've spent 15 minutes trying this and still nothing. The break fluid is very black also.

Being said before I was having a fiddle about the break lever was very loose and I could pull it in about half way without any tension. But now the break has full tension and isn't wobbling at all.

Ah, righto - well that's good, wouldn't want to have any electrical gremlins to sort out!

Few questions so that we can work out what the problem is, ready for you to ride it after your CBT:

- Did you give the choke a try? Did it make a difference? Did the bike maintain its revs once you applied the choke?

- As I asked last time, are you actually warming up the engine properly before adjusting the idle screw? I realise it's boring having to stand there working the throttle until it heats up a bit, you don't need to go absolutely nuts but you at least want it to be at the lower end of a happy operating temperature otherwise you're just firing shots in the dark.

I'm not trying to be a broken record here, these are important questions; if you aren't using the choke or warming it up by any other means, then you'd expect it to cut out when you take your hand off the throttle! My CG runs perfectly but would still cut out if I did the same! And if you have tried the choke and can tell us what difference it made, we can do a better job of helping you work out the problem.

Final thought:

On my Lexmoto, they used really cheap shitty materials for the inlet rubber (bit connecting the carb to the cyclinder head, see pic below). As a result it split after a few months, and this let the bike suck in extra air. Bad for two reasons; firstly because it's sucking in who knows what dust and crap from outside the engine, and secondly because it made the bike run hella lean, and cut out whenever I took my hand off the throttle. So who knows, could be the same issue that you're having! Inspect that bit carefully, look for any splits. If you can't see any, run the engine and hold you hand around it and see if you can feel air sucking in. Don't burn yourself, mind

[attachment=0]Inlet.jpg[/attachment]

Well good news! I have filled the engine with oil and used the choke as suggested and the bike holds it's own! Running perfectly chugging along.

First time I tried revving it, as you said it cut out. Second time I attempted the bike was happy with it.

Need to say though there isnt much middle ground with my choke it's either on or will just snap back into off mode as it appears to be on a cable.

I'll have a gander on Friday with the inlet rubber and get back to you if it is sucking in the air.

I have to say for some reason when I try the press to start button, the little red one; the bike cuts out and the battery cannot start it. So through out the starting I did use the kick start. Not sure if it is a major issue using the kick start or if it is just a secondary choice.

Should mention as well the bike is a 15 plate so it should be fairly new and happy in the age respect, though the previous owner did fall off and leave some cosmetic damage.

So it seems that I need to start the bike first then i'll pop my helmet on and gloves etc. Take the choke off and get going!

Thank you all for your help, next problem is the front break

Does it still cut out even after warming it up properly? And I don't just mean once around the block, I mean 10 minutes or so and at least a couple of stretches of >30mph road for good measure. In fact, I'm hazarding a guess that if you've not done the CBT yet, you're just starting it on the driveway? I still think it's a bit soon to be recommending that you dive in and start mucking with the carb.

Also, on another note; when you say that you've killed the battery while trying to adjust the idle, what exactly is happening? Sounds a little odd for the battery to be giving up the ghost while the engine is actually running, could be something else causing it? Better safe than sorry, I figure.

If I lived a bit nearer by I'd offer to run over tomorrow and take a look at it with you, but Nuneaton is a bit of a long haul for "just dropping by"

Unfortunately no, I haven't completed my CBT yet, it is on Saturday.

Of course as anyone would, i'd like my bike functional before I pass so I don't need to piss about after my CBT.

As for the battery, the bike cuts out when I start it and do not manually keep revs in. So i'd try adjust the screw on the carb, restart and the bike would still cut out. So I kept attempting to adjust the carb but I believe constantly restarting the bike kills the little battery. Only take three/four tried before it's dead but it's not being rode so it makes sense.

I suppose it's hard for youngsters to know what a choke is brought up in full injected cars. I still remember my aunt showing me the choke on her metro.

Even I forgot to use the choke on my new old bike after riding around my injected CBF for 11k miles.

 

I went mad for a few years so had a 1971 Morris Marina which had a choke. Took a while to get used to it! Lived in fear of cutting out at junctions (which only actually happened once!) Many many moons later when I started riding the 125 I had the same FEAR as before, especially as it didn't have a cheaty engine temp gauge and it tended to cut out in low revs when it was cold regardless

How can you prevent cutting out at junctions? I really wouldn't want to do that and the fact my bike can't even hold its ground in my garage worries me let alone on a junction!

There's also a screw (opposite side of the black choke lever) that if adjusted speeds up/slows idle revs

I was attempting this but unfortunately killed the battery before any progress was made.

Are you using the choke? Are you letting it warm up? Did you read any of the owners manual?

 

In all honesty mate I wouldn't know what the "choke" is, i'm new to the motorbiking world so I apologize for my lack of knowledge on the subject.

Unfortunately the bike didn't come with a manual, only the V5 from the previous owner. I've looked online but a PDF format is £10...

 

No worries, we all start somewhere

I wouldn't bother with the manual in that case... Lexmoto manuals are a bit crap! If it was free then it'd be worth a quick look, but not worth paying for. Might be worth grabbing a copy of this instead at some point:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chinese-Motorcycles-Service-Repair-manuals/dp/1844258718

But anyway, Google tells me this is what your carburettor looks like...

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTU5OVgxMTcx/z/s38AAOSw37tV-XwU/$_57.JPG

See that black lever half way up it? That's your choke. The simplified explanation is that it restricts the flow of air into your engine, making for a richer fuel-air mix. Put even simpler, the bike will rev higher when you use the choke, which will help it warm up before you ride it without you having the work the throttle constantly.

Don't necessarily whack it up all the way, just start the bike and give it just enough choke that the engine keeps running without you having to stay on the throttle, and let the engine warm up for a little while. Once it warms up you can ease off the choke (because you don't want to be using it unnecessarily, running rich all the time isn't a smart move) and it should keep running without cutting out, assuming you don't have any other problems that want sorting! And then you're ready to ride

(My old Lexmoto needed a bit of choke to start properly on anything but the warmest days, you quickly get into a habit of starting the bike and letting it warm up while you stick your gloves and helmet on)

Oh, and +1 what Hoggs said - if you're riding a geared bike, you definitely want to be doing a geared CBT.

Thank you for the detail explanation! I really appreciate your patience.

I'll attempt this tomorrow morning after I've filled the oil and break fluid up.

Today I was trying to turn up the revs on the carb (I think) to keep it going but I managed to kill the battery again so I stopped.

Hopefully it is just as simple as placing the choke on and letting it warm up.

I'll post back either way, thank you for your time.

If you've bought a geared bike I'd recommend doing your CBT on a geared bike! It's a not a test you cannot fail it - they may ask you come back for a bit more instruction. relax and enjoy it.

It's also probably for the best. If I complete the CBT on a scooter I still have no clue how to use the gears on a bike so it'll be very hit and miss and risky.

As far as i'm aware it goes like 1N2345 but it's still confusing too me!

I have a Lexmoto Arizona 125cc.

 

I've found the problem.

Just kidding. Idle doesn't sound right.

I knew i'd get a bloody dig for the Lexmoto

Are you using the choke? Are you letting it warm up? Did you read any of the owners manual?

In all honesty mate I wouldn't know what the "choke" is, i'm new to the motorbiking world so I apologize for my lack of knowledge on the subject.

Unfortunately the bike didn't come with a manual, only the V5 from the previous owner. I've looked online but a PDF format is £10...

sounds like the tickover needs adjusting slightly to bring the revs up a little on tickover

Any idea on how I can do this?

I have tried to research but there is a lot I struggle to understand.

If you've bought a geared bike I'd recommend doing your CBT on a geared bike! It's a not a test you cannot fail it - they may ask you come back for a bit more instruction. relax and enjoy it.

Do you know if there is a wait period at all? It may get a little pricey if I have to redo it...

Hello,

I'm very very new to bikes so i'm sorry if I struggle to understand anyone who posts but I have a Lexmoto Arizona 125cc.

When I turn on the bike I have to keep a little bit of revs in there or the bike will just cut out.

What can I do to solve this?

Thank you everyone.

PS: My CBT is on Saturday. Any tips at all? I've opped for a motorbike but people have said to use a scooter instead as it is much easier.

I have no experience using bikes and cannot afford to fail my CBT.

Thanks again, Brandon.