rollazuki

the disk should be flat(perfectly) sometimes when the disk overheats, it kinda turns into a shallow cone(imagine the rim round the edge of a plate.) when the put the brake on this flexes flat under pad pressure and gives a spongy feel.

Get down with a torch, get a mate to apply and front brake on/off, and check for the disk itself flexing in any way.

If it locks up intermittantly Id guess maybe a couple of things:

Piston broken/cracked, and catching on the edges of the ports, would be hellish noisy tho when it did spin over.

Possible bottom end seizure, maybe bearings in main bearings misplaced, or possibly a damaged or cracked gear in the primary drive.

One other thought, where has all the coolant gone?? if the base gasket or head gasket has failed, all the pretty green coolant may well be sitting in the bottom of the engine, causing the primary compression to be huge, and stopping the motor spin over.

Quit guessing and pull the head and barrel off, its maybe 2 hours work, and will reveal the extent of the problems.

Just buy the ARAI

Drain carbs(little drain screw on the bottom of each), drain fuel.

Refil with fresh fuel, and X fingers.

If it still refuses to run, remove carbs, strip, clean, and away you go.

But a good fitting ARAI.

You only get 1 chance at life.

why bellyache because they are upholding the law?

its there , always has been, we have more sophisticated ways to break it, they have more sophisticated ways to catch us.....

So what?

They have been making it awkward to break the speed laws for years, mebbe thats why track days have become popular eh? either way, its not gonna change, get over it, book a track day, or grow a massive set and take the plates off and run the cat n fiddle at speed.

its still a nice road, even at legal speeds.

have a look on pentagongps.co.uk , its where I work, and I know we are just about cheapest in the uk.

rolla

2 hours fork seals, 1/2 hour for c&s

FFS

black

I prefer u locks to fasten the bike to itself, or something. Find somewhere that you only just have space to get the lock in, then its harder to cut, or jack apart. If its accesible, or theres a loop of chain coiled up on the floor, its easy to cut. If its taught with hardly any chain/locl visible, its hard to get to.

if you are selling the bike in a few months, and want to patch it up, go steel, but Id say stainless, its also a good selling point when you get shut of it

after looking at the pics tho, it doesnt look too bad.

Yeah, if you have doubts, then you kinda know the answer. If you think that any scratch/gouge is a stress raiser, and its polycarb, so no mixed up fibres so stop cracks spreading, Id go new.

hey, its your head tho.

Theres no mention of 'torn scrotum'

Really, Id prefer to forget that particular biking injury........

Good, you bought a quality helmet.

AGV,SHOEI ARAI all good brands. Personal preference is ARAI, Ive had the others, and made a decision based on fit/quality.

Like I said, you get 1 head, its pretty fragile, take care of it eh!

chain is fine!

Look at the front of the frame. Part way up you will see the reg-rec unit(alloy with cooling fins)

the wiring lays across the top of it in a wonderfull muck and water trap.

Unbolt it(10mm either side?!?!?) remove the unit, and clean or replace the bullet connector its connected with.

You may be onto a winner now, or you might have to replace the unit.

When you replace it, clean up the frame and the back of the unit and copper slip it all over the back, and re-route the wires in an up/down fashion and lather them in silicon grease.

Thats my guess......

Rolla

yes

buy the arai.

last time i looked, i only got 1 chance at a head........

The Zxr workshop manual does say it requires a full engine strip to swap the chain, BUT it can be done without.

Remove cam cover, remove tensioner etc and igniter cover.

You did set the timing at tdc first didnt you??

Make note of the cam markings to ensure they are refitted in the correct timed position, and count links between the markings.

Remove the chain(you will usually have to remove cams as the new chain will be tighter)

drop the camchain down the tunnel, and then using EXTREME patience, sneak it past the sprocket on the crank, trying to avoid breaking off the small ally tang that is there to prevent you from removing it in situe.

You can do it, and cause no damage to the engine.

Rebuild and check timing, turn engine over by spanner first to check for any clearance issues.

Id always replace the chain and slipped blades and tensioner. They all wear.

Zxr4's were always a little camchain rattly tho, so ensure it needs doing before pulling it apart.

Rolla

rich mixture causes cooler running, not hot.

check coolant, ensure cooling fan actually works.

if fan isnt working, hotwire it to 12v, and see if bike overheats with it spinning

eventually bin it, and buy a Suzuki!

bike oil generally is a short chain lubricant. This is used, since a bike gearbox and clutch are both in the oil. Car oil usually isnt, and shouldnt be used.

Also most car oils have friction modifiers in them that may cause clutch slip.

Having said all that, I was once told by a 'Morris' lubricants rep, that the synth oils were the same stuff.

Id use as bike oil, play it safe. After all, a car doesnt spin to 10000 rpm+ does it!?!

Rolla

Er yes, a burnout for a photo and end of game for clutch....

Dont forget that those springs live in a semi compressed state all the time. The lose tension, so when a new clutch is fitted, it can accelerate wear. They are way cheap, so Id consider a set as a good measure.

As has been mentioned, back off the cable so its very slack to aid reassembly.

Remember when its done and you re-adjust the clutch to leave some free play in the cable. Ensure its got maybe 10 mm back and forth play at the bar end before it takes up the clutch.

It will also need adjustment over the next few days as the plates 'bed' in. remember, check those metal plates before re-fitting them.

Rolla.

PS, an extra metal plate at the bottom of the clutch makes a gixer clutch much more agressive and grabby. lol

It shows you who the lid is aimed at Id say. Race rules insist on a double D ring fastener, so any lid with a seatbelt buckle affair cant be used on a track.

Easier to fasten with gloves on tho.

wind the adjuster in until you can waggle the end of the clutch lever back and forth about 10mm. This is free play. As you pull the lever in then, it should offer no resistance for the first 5-10mm or so, then start to bite, and operate the clutch.