flipper

Looking for a mid size 4 stroke commutery type bike. Nearer to Peterborough the better. Sub £2000.

Watcha got?

No problem doing this. Have done it in the past without issues.

Hang the cable vertically by one of the nipples. Drip 3in1 onto the top of the cable while pushing the outer up and down. Repeat this until oil appears at the lower nipple. If you have plasticine or blue tack, fashion a funnel at the top and keep it topped up with oil.

no need to remove the cable from the bike to do this. nice and easy.

Yeah, I've seen the guide and a few Youtube vids.....but I wondered if I took it to someone who really knew what they were about with suspension it could save some of the experimentation.....

ride, feel, adjust, ride again.

if it's doing something you don't like then work out what it is and adjust from there.

Get a good staple gun and you won't have any problems.

absolumley. it's a pig of job without.

RD LCs, TDR 250s, 350 YPVSs. Yes all very strange and uncommon. No mention of a top end rebuild in the manuals.

Even stranger would be a manual stating "top end rebuild" but not stating what is required.

Just service the bike as per the handbook - oil, air filter, spark plug etc.

Nsr's are two stroke, top end rebuilds are part of the service schedule.

I have owned many a 2 stroke and the service schedule did not call for a top end rebuiild, hence my question.

If it's part of the schedule then the manual will list what's needed eh? ie rings or rings and piston.

you guess the air filter was changed? might be worth checking it.

what have you done exhaustwise? gone back to stock? fitted an aftermarket can?

adjusting the pilot air screws will not cure worn emulsion tubes - the emulsion tubes would need to be replaced. It's possible that the dynojet needles have worn them prematurely - this was an issue with dj kits at one time. But from your description of your plugs the bike is running lean.

was any work done to the bike prior to this problem starting?

If the plug tips were white then the bike is running lean....... they should be a tan colour.

Iridium plugs last longer, but they won't cure a carburation problem.

If you get engine up to temperature and blip the throttle does the rev counter drop down to a steady idle straight away? Or does it hang up before idling? Or drop down below idle then pick up to idle speed?

Has the bike got the stock exhaust and air filter? Has it ever had a dynojet kit or similar fitted?

Have a look at the engine casing around the front sprocket and make sure it's not cracked.

Old age, wear and lack of maintenance are the main reasons for chain failure.

What you got currently ?

 

who? me or the op

i got A* supertech r but im not a fan of those, daytona are next on the list but there a bit over the 100 quid budget in this thread

You cannot do better than Daytona. They are the absolute best in protection, but to be fair to the OP budget will be a limitation. A good secondhand pair would be a better buy than a new pair of cheap boots.

There are new Daytona Flash and Toper boots on Ebay Germany for less than £100.

Certainly the caliper end of the brakes is the same as the non ABS version, but bleeding an ABS system is a right pain as you have extra hoses and a hydraulic control unit to contend with.

I had Corsa IIIs on my Speed Triple and the sides wore out very quickly.

Possibly, covering the bike has allowed condensation to form which settled in the motor or connector to it. As said, check the fuses. Even on something only 3 years old, damp and electric don't mix.

You now say the plugs were a mess........................... as in sooted up?

Could be that the emulsion tubes in the carbs are worn. This will make the bike run very rich at part throttle and idle. It also makes the bike very easy to start without choke when cold.

yes....... which would be the opposite of "lowering" the mixture............... whatever that might be.

if it was doing it at 15 degrees then I doubt that's it.

Is there a clutch lever switch? Could be that sticking.

Carb icing possibly? Has the problem started since the cooler damp weather arrived?

The idle speed will be specified in the handbook or service manual. Fitting an aftermarket can may cause the idle speed to drop and you should adjust it back to the specified setting.

Setting the idle speed too low can cause low oil pressure, as the pump is driven from the crankshaft. Low oil pressure is a bad thing.

Wait til it seizes. Then you know it needs a rebuild.

when i have done them in the past i done it with fork leg fully pushed down into lower leg(compressed), filled to top edge then expanded fork leg to full extent inserted spring and put fork top back on never caused any problems

Then you have too much oil in the fork. The oil should be filled to the height specified with the leg compressed and spring removed.

The tool for measuring oil level can be purchased on ebay for about £12 - £14.

Plated bores last much longer than old fashioned non-plated ones.

Why do you think it needs a rebuild? Loss of performance? Piston slap? Does the owners handbook state that you must replace the piston or rings every so many thousand miles?

If not, leave it alone. Just service the bike as per the handbook - oil, air filter, spark plug etc.

My current ride - the latest one of many

the dr100 is a 4 stroke motorcycle with a camshaft running in the cylinder head, the picture of engine parts is from a 2 stroke engine, very much more simple.

Search the net for a manual for the dr100. Id guess not that dissimilar from a dr125, and follow the dissasembly procedure.

OR, make plenty of notes as you take it apart, so when it goes back together, it stands a chance of running. For example, you need to know how to set the cam timing up, as you have the piston siezed you cant move it to tdc for the strip down, so you really need to find things out like timing marks etc.

he said it's a 2 stroke