tomh65

Thanks Paulhanle. After so many weeks of poor performance, I took out the carb and replaced it with a new one. Sure enough, the diaphragm was perforated. It had about 12 holes in it. Now it runs like a 250. I can get up hills in 5th gear - no problem. There was one tiny problem though - the fuel pipe into the carb had rotted. I left the bike in the garage overnight, only to find that it leaked all over the floor. Over 2 gallons of petrol wasted!! I should have replaced the pipe at the same time, but we live and learn...

I bought some Nankai waterproof trousers. At first they were great, textile outer, and quilted inners. After a couple of years, they now let in rain water even through the knees. I sprayed them with some waterproofing camping spray. That didn't work very well. I also sprayed my textile gloves with the same agent, but my hands still get wet through the gloves.

Has anyone got any idea of a product that actually DOES work for waterproofing textiles?

Cheers mate. I will try that tomorrow after work. That is what is known as the 'idle screw' isn't it?

Thanks for your reply Spanner. From the manual, it looks very much like the CV carb.

I have just replaced the in-line fuel filter. I only rode it from the mother in law's (about 1,5 miles) since changing. It reached 7000 rpm and this time didn't falter. But on an uphill, it was still sluggish. Valve clearance has also been mentioned, so I have just watched a couple of you-tube videos with a view to having a go at checking that when I can.

I have had the carb cleaned by 2 different dealers, but it made no difference to the power.

The engine also cuts out even when warm after riding a few miles at high throttle (between 6-8000 RPM). I have to drop down gears just to get near 25 RPM uphill, even on a low gradient hill.

If it's running too rich (sorry for sounding a bit green) how do I adjust it? Is it the carb screw that sets the idling?

It was a new plug in January, but the one I took out was black all over with carbon.

Just a random question and an afterthought...

I had a new exhaust pipe fitted last year, and coincidentally, that's when the power loss began. Do manufacturers fit restrictors in exhaust pipes?

Will removing the baffles make any difference?

Here is a pic of my scooter with V&H shot pipes. These were fitted after a people carrier hit me and bent the stock pipes. Looks quite good now, but very loud.

its a great page tom over 3000 uk sportster riders on it and yes im there as well

Hey mate, Just joined and awaiting approval. Thanks for that link.

Congratulations Arron. Nice wheels.

Might have been on here before but I just saw the brilliant new VED rules.

Just seems like yet another way to tax the nob of people who work hard and want decent things. Grumble grumble.

Unfair tax in my opinion. Most light weight motorcycles are taxed around £80, whereas a 3 ton Audi 4WD that is very heavy and causes oodles more damage to the road surface pays NO tax. Emissions are used as an excuse for a 'green' tax (like the green airport tax what we have to pay. Irrespective of how many are on the plane, the plane flies anyway) just to take money off us.

Thanks everyone for all the answers so far...

I saw a similar post about a GN125 (similar engine to mine). There was air intake/leak answers on there too. I will try simple attempts before trying the expensive option.

Try this

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjhga7bmb5fb8s1/Suzuki%20gs-gn-gz-dr125-manual-eng-copy.pdf?dl=1

Cheers mate, I will look at that.

tom have a look on facebook this group is excellent and purely sportsters only https://www.facebook.com/groups/sportstersicknessuk/

Will do, cheers mate! Any information is valuable.

I will have a proper look at it in Spring when the icy mornings have gone, I will have the gasket etc., checked out, but I thought it a good time to ask in preparation for fun times ahead cruisin'

Thanks everyone for all the answers so far...

I saw a similar post about a GN125 (similar engine to mine). There was air intake/leak answers on there too. I will try simple attempts before trying the expensive option.

I had replacement pipes on my Sportster (V&H double barrel). They are very loud, but when I put the bike away for winter (I do every winter due to lots of chrome, with salty roads an' all) one of the cylinders sounded louder than the other. Could this be a valve problem? There is also a seepage of oil appearing on the top cooling fin of the rear cylinder block.

What maintenance has been done on it? Things like filters, Valve clearances, plug, oil, etc......

Oil & filter change about 500 miles ago, also new air filter same time new plug 2 weeks ago.

Valve clearance? (not fully up on engines, sorry) How is that done?

Did you enjoy Christmas too much

does it run fine except for up hills?

When was the air filter last replaced?

LOL!! It started way, way before Christmas

It runs fine on the flat up until around 7-8K RPM, then feels like it is pulling back

Do the rev's increase or stay the same when it slows down?.....If so, it could be clutch slip.....

The revs drop like a stone with the speed.

Hi all,

I bought this bike 10 years ago and it ran fine until recently. Now it runs ok on the flat, but loses power going uphill. I can be doing 40mph at the bottom of a brow, but going back uphill with the throttle full open, the bike slows to 20MPH. When I step down gears and the revs reach 8000RPM, the bike goes even slower.

Can anyone please help with some advice on this problem?

The carb was cleaned and serviced, but same problem is occurring.

Cheers.