exportmanuk

3 hours ago, Capt Sisko said:

Yeah, I've been told off for this as well, and it makes perfect sense if you've got a revy bike, but my R1250RT produces more torque at 2,000rpm than say a MT09 does at 7,000rpm. Yes, you shouldn't let your engine labour, but bottom end punch is a design feature of the big RT engines and as such I'd argue that you're just riding the bike the way the designers intended.  Give me an MT09 or similar and I'll do it differently. A good instructor ought to know the difference and alter their sermon accordingly.

My current bike is a 23 1250RT and anything below 2.5k  does not do the engine any good unless I'm just maintaining a steady speed on a flat road. I find using the middle of the rev range may no significant difference to the MPG and yes I  am quite happy to use all the revs to the red line but each to their own.

On 19/03/2024 at 19:10, Mawsley said:

I have no idea what the whole 1,2,3 thing is and I’ve done one of these. My cop kept encouraging me to go faster - which I didn’t enjoy. Kept wanting me to change down more gears than needed too rather than using the engine’s torque to accelerate out of corners.

 

I did take road position advice from him with approaching traffic and junctions though, and that stuck with me. I enjoyed it, not sure I’d do another. 

Many riders make the bike labour using too high of a gear, whilst there may have been one or two diesel motorcycle engines most petrol engines respond better being in the middle 3rd of the rev range. Making a bike accelerate from low revs is not good for the engine and reduces the responsiveness to throttle inputs both accelerating and slowing. ( this includes American V twins too)  

All learners  irrespective of the mode should have passed the highway code test before being allowed on the road.  Road safety should be taught in Schools ( Its clear many parents are incapable of understanding it so it needs to be part of the curriculum)  Maybe a requirement to undertake a HWC and eye test compulsory before license renewal.

34 minutes ago, mealexme said:

Last time I actually looked through it was probably 2009 when I did my test, but I do look up the rules if I hear something has changed. 

 

Going off topic already, but I do find the rule change on pedestrians right of way who are crossing at a junction a strange move. I get the idea behind it, but if anything it just encourages pedestrians to step out into the road just because they have right of way. I actually had this very thing happen to me about 45 minutes ago, where some chap just walked straight out without looking. Luckily I was going to let him cross anyway, but not everyone would, especially when the highway code states that drivers "should" give way to pedestrians, meaning this is more of a courtesy than a law. 

 

Hi   The legislation has not changed just the interpretation . But to my mind they should have put in a H0 before the H1-3 that states You are always responsible for your own safety.

Hi  you could try the clowncils website

https://www.manchester.gov.uk/info/500346/city_centre_parking/332/motorcycles

I have a helite tethered vest ( not hi viz) hope it is never needed several of the guys I ride with have similar devices.

There is a petition on gov.uk  to get the VAT removed from these pieces of kit

https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/644555?fbclid=IwAR3PgK1mv04Vy5F5NFnfwIpuGlknOsrLzD3LaUrVr2X4D4EA3IKMg9PVlic

14 hours ago, Pie man said:

Well the rates for me, are shite. Company car user receives 13p per mile, essential car user 45p per mile first 10K only, cant make nowt on those prices, I have an option to ride my bike for work, but in reality who uses their bike for business and covers 20K a year, I have looked into using my bike, but after paying for insurance, fuel, tax, servicing, tyres, Kit etc, it just isn't worth it.    

I use either car or Bike for work when required.  I am already paying tax and insurance on them  so the money I am paid ( a lot less then the government recommended figures ) covers fuel.  I use the bike because I can and the car because I need too.  Yes it means I may need servicing a little more often and tyres  but if you are honest how many bikes do the max milage between annual services.

10 hours ago, Pbassred said:

Sorry if the 2 previous poster is underderstood me. I know what is written in the manual, but that not what gets taught and examined. Max legal speed possible at all times. I'm confident to hit bends at high speed, but am I demonstrating safety?  A senior IAM examiner told me this week that I should be riding at 7-9000 RPM., using engine braking for adjustments of 10MPH and brakes for greater amounts.

Sure, I push the boundaries all the time, but I don't kid myself that it's advanced.

You should always be able to stop in the distance you can see to be clear on your own side of the road.  This is often what decides the speed you can ride at.

Hi

There is a new petition on the gov website to increase road repair funding.  Please sign.

https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/634995  

Hi  I deliver both IAM and Bikesafe in Manchester   Bikesafe though a great start is only one day and whilst it may identify weaknesses and give you some pointers on how to correct them it does not really do a great deal of coaching. The Rospa and IAM course are spread over a number of weeks and hopefully help you establish better habits and hopefully many of these good habits will stick around with you for a good while.

Bikesafe is often an introduction to further training.

I can't comment on ERS as I have not experienced it directly but anything that help your riding improve and become even more enjoyable is always a good thing.

if you zoom out you will see an earlier picture without the stop line

Think you might need a washer or two of the correct size   also check the fit of the swingarm to the frame  it should be a snug fit if not you may need to pack this with a washer too

If you can post some pictures it will help

As I got older I could no longer ride sports bikes for any length of time.  Now I ride a BMW R1250RT   Performance is quite good and being a touring bike to riding position is tolerable  for my back and neck.  I would suggest that you look at replacing the bike rather than making significant changes to the riding position. You don't say what bike you have but for most you would need to move the handle bars and footrests/controls to be more upright, and stable on the bike. You may also benefit from some lower back support.

failing coil?

I have worn glasses for years, I find flexible metal frames best for riding and a close fit to my face..

Issue with Sun visor. you can get a reactive pinlock or reactive glasses  not quite as good but better than nothing.  Also with some helmets a line of black tape along the top of the visor is helpful

I bought a cheap Chinese copy of a CG125 for my son when he went to collage, some things were not brilliant like the electrics, suspension and swingarm  and had to be sorted, but the engine was bullet proof, After collage he went to Uni in Leeds  his GF at the time went to Uni in Preston, he rode between Leeds and Preston then back every weekend for 2 years  through Sun Rain and snow,  engine never missed a beat.  New Spark plug and oil every year  adjust the valve clearances and it just kept on going. Still got the complete engine somewhere in my shed,  frame etc went to the tip as it was shot after being unused for a few years.

I have twice taken a PCP deal then after a shortish time got a bank loan and transferred it.  The PCP deals have been better offers, just  got a new bike on a 3 year  PCP but I will pay it off in the next 12-18 months either a bank loan or from pension pay out

Strange most do, its under the rear cover just behind the pillion seat its a long black box with a small round speaker in the top it takes 2 batteries I cant remember the battery type

Engine protection plate fitted

I would leave it as No 1  if someone want to steal the car they will be searching No 1 for the Keys not her flat 

I would suggest only the friction plates  as the driven plates are metal and can be cleaned  you will also have to clean the clutch basket.   Having put car engine oil into a bike once  I had to replace the friction plates  before it would work properly    Also the higher you go up the gear box usually the easier it is to change without using the clutch at all this would account for your changes into 4th being no problem

I think it depends on the situation   If you can already see it is clear and will not confuse other road users then that's fine.   If you have to move to the off side to gain a view  then that's probably not a good idea.  Also I have seen one case where a rider went to the off side to take a left hand bend and was undertaken by the car he had been holding up.   this rider also kept trying to get their knee down.  So only do it if you are going to make use of it.  

I would add the rider was not known to me just some random bod I have caught up with, and soon passed .

Can I have 500 please

Hi  If you are willing to travel a little further the J&S shop at Oakmere of the A556 is much bigger

https://jsaccessories.co.uk/stores/northwich

T

43 minutes ago, Mattt said:

Maybe slightly over budget ,CB500x or 500F ,42 miles you will want something good on fuel and reliable and not too nickable if your in London 

 and also make sure you have a secure place to park, and two big chains and padlocks.  Commuting you need something that will filter easily, offer some weather protections and space to carry whatever you need so a rack and topbox is probably important.  Panniers are handy but they tend to make filtering more difficult.

Getting back to biking is expensive  decent kit is not cheap so make sure you budget for this