KingRoach

No response yet. Just found a Kiwi shoe wax (nutrient?). I know leather finish is different between shoes, furniture, and clothing, the latter being the most sophisticated perhaps. Do you think the Kiwi shoe wax is a good idea for use on a jacket? Or just keep it aside for shoes? Still looking for recommendations for a dye kit to use at home, preferably a small one-use kit. Cheers

I just found a spray bottle of "anti mist" for a car windshield. Says it prevents condensation. Will this play safe on a helmet visor and prevent breath-fog?

Great news guys! The brake is now working! Thanks to all of you. [mention]JRH[/mention] , I did it earlier this morning so a bit different from what you said but same concept. I took the caliper out, turned it so the bleed nipple/bnajo is upwards, gave it a few taps to make sure any air goes upwards towards the nipple. Attached the bleed hose, put the other end under brake fluid, cracked open and operated the lever until a huge bubble of air came out and it was mostly fluid again. I was depending on the amount in the reservoir to go down the pipe. I did allow some micro bubbles to stay because I was in a hurry. Locked everything back, pushed the pistons back to zero position (I could already discern a difference in piston reaction with the lever). Put everything back and pumped the lever until it gripped. Now it's braking like pincers! I even took it out for a ride (to refill the tank). Oh boy what a ride! I will just need to top up the reservoir to be on the safe side. The micro bubbles might be staying in there right now as it's acting like there's none. Again, thanks to all of you for helping me with this one. Now only the other smaller jobs: - electronics: neutral, speedo and dipped lights. All three need attention. - speedo doesn't work. Could be wheel unit. - chain/sproket: now cleaning chain to see if it will need replacing or not. - fork seal being observed to determine it will require replacement just cleaning and gaiters. - exhaust has two very tiny leak holes that will need blocking. - might be some leak in the engine/piston area. Could be one gasket. Will observe later. - overall rust removal and cleanup.

That banjo/bleed thing is exactly what I have on my caliper right now. I think you are saying that, even though I've bled it completely to the point that I see no micro air bubbles coming out at all, there will still be some air inside of the caliper because of the different location of the bleed. If that is true, then this must be what is causing the problem. I will look into bleeding the caliper again while it is unmounted. How do you recommend placing it for this job?

or just go back to ebay with "bleed screw m7x1" and get one for £1.75 posted instead of £7.29 due to high postal cost! now, for my vinyl tubing....

The two links seem to offer two different bleed screws. The first on ebay is M8x1.25 and just says "Yamaha all models", while the other is M7x1 and states "SR125". I wonder if the first is referring to modern Yamahas and if the company changed the standard screw pitch and width in their calipers. This is exactly why I'm asking on this forum. Bless the forum. I was asking about brake fluid brands in general, if there's any particular one I should avoid. For example, on my two-stroke scooter, I was rightly told to avoid a certain brand of 2T oil which causes engines to go bust. Just wondering if a high-end brand of brake fluid vs. cheapo brake fluid is as important. There's a motorcycle shop just behind where I live. I wanna go and ask if they have brake fluid (or go to Halfords) but I know I still need a vinyl tube. There's one on eBay for £3 with a one-way valve (doesn't seem important if you just use a bottle/jar), but it's from China. The same in the UK is a stupid £7. Why? Oh, and I've just received the last missing light bulb in the mail and I'm guessing the bike is near complete other than brakes. My chain/sproket will need to be replaced, do you think MOT will make a big fuss about it if I don't replace them first? I'm not experienced but it does not seem to me, visually speaking, that they are worn out. I have the replacements already but don't wanna remove the rear wheel due to a lack of a proper torque-wrench in my arsenal. Which reminds me, it does seem to require a clean up and grease anyway. One more item to buy.

Great input, thanks a lot to both of you! There is no leak, so maybe as you say it is still an air issue. I might be able to do it where there is a nipple placed (on the banjo bolt in the middle of the caliper). Just need to get some fluid I guess, then. The sheared nipple is still inside. I don't have any direct means to pull it out, but if I put my hands on a reverse-screw (screw removal) kit, I might be able to pull it out, though I would still need to flush the system to do it, so I guess fluid should be made a priority. Is there any fluid I should avoid? (on my 2T scooter, I was told to avoid Carlube 2T oil for being too light). By the way, wemoto doesn't have the bleed screw for older bikes. Mine is 1993 or 1996, I forgot.

hello, I've got myself a black leather suit by Ashman. Real cowhide and whatnot, but it's a bit tatty around the edges albeit being generally in good condition. I want to dye it back to like-new condition. What kit do I need to buy?

Hello, are these still there?

Hi again. I'm after some motorcycle shoes to match black leathers, not the racing racey mcracington type. I'm a size 7, but it seems that motorcycle shoes are bigger for the same size so maybe size 6.5 for me? I'm in Nottingham.

Got a Yamaha SR125 I'm working on and need a couple parts, looking for a VERY good deal. Master Cylinder. maybe a caliper. Could be interested in these if they're in good condition for aesthetic reasons. Headlight Seat. luggage rack top box steering lock with keys battery cover rear left indicator maybe a helmet lock with keys also after: chain/lock/disk lock, preferrably alarmed, gps tracker (or recommendations) I've rummaged through the-bay and other classified websites, and looking for a better deal really. Maybe someone who's selling a bundle of these. Location in Nottingham, UK.

HI Mr Fro. Thanks for the reply. Are nipples a standard fit across makes and models? If not, could you link me to an Sr125 one? As for the master cylinder kit. I found it for £20. I'm wondering why can't one just be able to find the seals? Because that's all that needs replacing really, isn't it? Is what I described the symptom of air? and is the only failing of a MC manifest as a leak? I'm asking to troubleshoot. I don't want to have to buy a part I don't need. Extremely tight budget here, and I HATE postal times.

Hello forum! I've just got a very rusty Yamaha SR 125 that I'm very excited about getting back on the road and using for casual commuting. It's my first geared bike, and I hope to be able to keep it for a year or so until I get a full licence, then maybe I could get something bigger but only if I decided bigger is a need. The bike is full of rust, but upon closer inspection, it's all external and cosmetic and can be scrubbed and painted on the chassis or wiped off in other areas. The chromes are affected sadly. The worst corrosion is in the headlight. Other than that the bike seems to function like it should. The one big problem is has is a front-brake problem. It's not braking. The guy I bought it from pointed to the caliper being the problem, and he said he tried bleeding it to remove any possibility of air, but that didn't sort out the problem. Surely enough the bleed nipple is snapped but it's inserted in the middle and is capable of bleeding the caliper. What I found out is that if I pull the brake repeatedly, it brakes properly on the third pull. Then if I let it go and wait a couple seconds, it requires 3 pulls again. I've inspected the caliper and it's working. Lost a bit of fluid but still got enough. He said he bled it so let's trust him and say there's no air in the system, and the caliper is good, so what does that leave? Yes, I suspect it must be the master cylinder. Is it possible to buy the bleed nipple alone and only the seals in the master cylinder kit to save money? I've been looking at 2nd-hand parts, but I would like to save as much money as I can right now since I've not recovered yet from the shock of spending too much on bikes (my other bike is a scooter that's failed MOT and I got screwed by sellers and lost the 10-day grace period and bought an exhaust that turned out to be blowing too and the welder asked for as much as the exhaust costs and then somebody stole my batter, and this came after I had my helmet and gloves stolen from the seat box too, etc, etc, etc. Now I'm looking at 2 bikes that need MOT and some parts. I'm paying at least the price of another bike just for these!)

Many thanks for responding all. Obviously I wanna have the most entitlements with the least cost, and I was wondering if I could do DAS without having to do CBT first. Basically, to do absolutely anything, you must start with a CBT, regardless of any other circumstances, even if you have a full UK driving licence. Thanks guys. I gotta book mine ASAP then. My new scooter is in the garage: taxed, insured, and waiting for me to hop on. Don't wanna waste any more days.

Hi All. Newbie here. I've done googling and read all the info on gov.uk and youtube and other search results and even some schools' websites and there are still a couple things I'm confused about. Please accept my apology if any of these have been asked here before. If not, I hope the answers help other users as well. I've ridden a scooter before (automatic 50cc), then I came to this country and have had my full UK driving license for 2 years now. I am now 32 years old. I would like to get motorcycling. I actually thought a car's driving license entitles me to ride up to 125cc but turns out I was wrong. I am not keen on something like serious 600cc bikes; a mere 100-125cc will do me good, but I would like to eventually ride a manual instead of an automatic. First question: Right now, for my situation, what is the best option I should do? Do I absolutely have to do CBT first before I even attempt DAS? Or can one do a DAS without first having CBT? (i.e. are they allowed to test you on a bike on the road if you do not have initial entitlement?) Second question: If I do CBT, now that I have a full UK driving license, will it only last for 2 years or will it last for the duration of my driving license? If the latter, what happens when my driving license needs renewal in 8 years? Will the CBT entitlement transfer to the renewed license or will I still have to do it again? Third question: Say I would like to do a test: for either A1 or A categories. Since I have a car's driving license, do I still need to retake a theory test? Last question: When doing the tests (CBT or DAS or anything), do they need to be done on a manual bike if I would like to be entitled to ride a manual-transmission bike? Or can I do the test on an automatic bike and still be entitled to ride both? Thanks in advance for reading, and for any answers, and all the best to y'all. Hope to see you on the road soon. Ride safe.