choppedminx

Still having problems. Changed the plug cap and everything seemed OK for about a month.

Now have exactly the same problem, have changed the coil to plug lead, coil unit, and checked all wiring - HELP!!

So, could it be the coil unit??

Checked main fuse - OK

Ignition is on

No kill switch

ecu/brain is built in to the coil unit

Am I correct in thinking there shoud be a live feed to the coil unit from the ignition switch when turned on?

Hi

Hope someone can help. My sons Suzuki UX50 moped has no spark. There appears to be no power getting to any of the 4 connections on the coil unit (ignition on or off, or whilst cranking) - should there be?

I cant seem to find a workshop manual or a wiring diagram anywhere!

I have checked the igniting sensor (not sure if thats what its called!) with a continuity tester, when the rotor is turned the resistance changes and I get a beep from the tester, so presumably thats OK.

I am starting to pull my hair out, and I have a grumpy teenager giving me earache - help!!

I too took my test 'later in life' at the age of 49, back in November 2008.

I had a moped at 16, then got into American cars, Hot Rods etc. Just never seemed to get around to taking a bike test!

Started watching American Chopper on Sky, and thought I could build something like that (have built cars from scratch) - so the decision was made to take test.

It was certainly nerve racking and I could not believe how much of the Highway Code I has forgotten (on just didn't know!)

- and it rained on 3 of the 4 days of DAS!

But I passed, and one thing is for sure, I wish I had done it 10 (or 20) years ago!!

(chopper not started yet, but plans are afoot )

Hi

My son has just passed his CBT, and today rode the moped that we have been restoring for MOT, (folowing me, for directions)

The route includes some 60mph roads, and as instructed by his CBT instructor he stuck to the middle of his lane, thus causing some cars to get pretty close, until they could overtake.

I am quite used to riding in this position on the road, but then, I am not restricted to a top speed of 30/35mph!

Is this really the best place to be for him?

Your thoughts/views would be appreciated.

Nick

Ok thanks for your replies - good job I checked!!

So, what would you reccomend? Oxford Optimiser looks good??

Hi

Have just bought a new battery for my sons moped, comes dry with acid pack - I'm ok with filling, but the battery will need an initial charge.

My question: Is it OK to charge with a car battery charger? I have read somewhere that it will charge too high, is that so?

I have attached pic's of battery and charger if that helps.

Thanks in advance.

Nick

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae43/minstermadness/battery/R0017680.jpg

http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae43/minstermadness/battery/R0017681.jpg

Thanks Colin, worked straight away after some time over the gas ring!

Hi all

I know its a bit of a cheek asking a question about a minimoto, but this is foxing me.

My son has a minimoto that was running fine 2 months ago, now it just will not start!

Carb is clean, and there is petrol getting through to the bore as the plug gets wet, there is a spark when tested, and you can feel good compression when pulling pullstart.

But it just will not start, cant even detect a cough or splutter!

Any ideas?

Yep, I'll be there on Friday

I'll be there.

It will be my first as a fully fledged (at 49!!) biker

been polishing -

Overhaul or even new shock wont stop it botteming out, unless either result in a stiffer spring.

You need to raise the preload on the rear spring, this is usually done with a C-spanner (this effectivly raises the rear of the bike), if you go down the dogbone route be carefull the first time you take the bike out as if you raise the rear up to high you can make the bike unstable.

I would be worried if you are still grounding out the exhaust with the rear shock set on full preload, this would indicate a knackered spring to me (but this is highly unlikely).

The spacer I have between the spring and spring mount seems to be working OK, it doesn't raise the bike as such, but lessens the 'sag' when sat on - I suppose this has the effect of preloading the spring.

Still touches occasionally with pillion, but I am on the heavy side, and having had a look, I am not sure it the exhaust is maybe lower, as I dont think it's standard.

a better option might be to have it overhauled, fresh oil and serviced theres a company that will overhaul it and set it up for your weight etc...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUZUKI-GSX-600-12 ... 240%3A1318

Thanks, I will probably go this route, but temporarily I have dismantled the unit and put a steel spacer between the spring and its mount, thus stiffening the spring - seems to work pretty good

"whether they would work on you 1989 bike, i cannot say, but for £30 and an hour or two tinkering, it might be worth a shot.."

Yeah, I'm coming to the conclusion I will have to make something. That's not a problem, I'm very new to biking, but have been working on (and building) cars for years. Just thought There might have been a quick and easy way

you should be able to adjust by 5 clicks, witrh a c-spanner as above, otherwise, you may find that a second hand shock may be better, i know bandit owners replace with an old GSXR item which has a reservior.. also, as its is the same as the bandit, look for shorter dog bones as this will increase seat height and clearance, also makes the bike turn quicker, if you do go this route, slacken of the chain first as it will get over tight when you change the geometry, then adjust as normal..

you may want to consider heavier oil in the forks too, 15w instead of 10w, and progressive springs, to stop the front diving with the load..

 

Yeah, it is adjusted to stiffest, but still sits too low with pillion. Went out today, kept scraping on roundabouts, and bumpy roads

I am wondering if i could maybe fit some kind of a spacer between the spring and the shock??

Would a bandit unit fit? I'm sure they would be more available. I have found an aftermarket monoshock, but the price is almost £1000!!! - must be someway of stiffening/raising??

 

as stated earlier, get some dog bones, see here

http://www.cjaccessories.co.uk/product. ... 264&page=1

or you could go for a nitron shock

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-GSF-GSX-GS ... 240%3A1318

Dog bone link is for '98 on - this bike is '89

Nitron shock link doesn't list GSX600F

you should be able to adjust by 5 clicks, witrh a c-spanner as above, otherwise, you may find that a second hand shock may be better, i know bandit owners replace with an old GSXR item which has a reservior.. also, as its is the same as the bandit, look for shorter dog bones as this will increase seat height and clearance, also makes the bike turn quicker, if you do go this route, slacken of the chain first as it will get over tight when you change the geometry, then adjust as normal..

you may want to consider heavier oil in the forks too, 15w instead of 10w, and progressive springs, to stop the front diving with the load..

Yeah, it is adjusted to stiffest, but still sits too low with pillion. Went out today, kept scraping on roundabouts, and bumpy roads

I am wondering if i could maybe fit some kind of a spacer between the spring and the shock??

Would a bandit unit fit? I'm sure they would be more available. I have found an aftermarket monoshock, but the price is almost £1000!!! - must be someway of stiffening/raising??

Wonder if anyone can help.

Want to take pillions now and then, but have found that when I do this makes the rear of the bike a bit too low. Occasionally the exhaust will touch road on roundabouts, and uneven surfaces. - not good for pillion confidence!

The rear shock appears to be OK, I assume just tired. I am on the heavy side, which doesn't help.

What would be a good (cheap) option, all I can find are 2nd hand units, which maybe no better. Would it be best to get an uprated shock (if I can find one), or is there a way of raising the rear (and is this a good idea?)

Any ideas/thoughts appreciated

Ive found the problem

Under the pillion seat I found a partly connected Datatool alarm/immobiliser, traced all the wires and took it out - seems to be OK now, just done 35 miles without a missing a beat

I had thought it may be related to the side stand, but I have bypassed the switch temporarily, and it still does it

Hi

Just when I think I get my bike OK, something else happens!!

For the last few days I had noticed that occasionally on bumpy roads the engine would faulter - I had put this down to me shutting the throttle over the bumps (I am new to riding) - but now I am not so sure.

A few days ago I came to a stop at a roundabout and the engine cutout, it started straightaway, so I thought no more about it. Then a few miles later it happenend again, but wouldn't start for a couple of minutes. Over the following couple of days it seems to be getting worse, sometimes not starting for 10 minutes or more, and sometimes cutting at speed, then restarting again.

I have checked all of the connections, fuses, wires etc, and it seemed to be OK, until today when it cutout, and wouldn't start, so had to push bike 1/2 mile home

Now sometimes it runs, and sometimes not, its as if the ignition has been switched off, but the neutral light is still on.

I have had the engine running with one plug lead out, and there is a spark there. When it wont start there is no spark, so I assume it must be ignition based.

Could this be the Ignitor/cdi unit?? I was under the impression that they either worked or not?

The bike is a 1989 Suzuki GSX600F

sounds like you have a loose connection

usually the multi plugs behind the clocks and in the side of fairings are the culprit

I agree, I have found several 'not quite good enough' connections in the multiplugs under fairing. A good spray of WD40, and a few 'in and outs' (ooh err) with the plugs seem to fix it.

PROBLEM SOLVED

The connector at the back of the 'side stand diode' had a corroded wire!!

- managed to make up another connector, and solder onto the diode - problem solved!

Thanks for all your suggestions

Have a Happy New Year

Nick

does your neutral light work ?

some work off the neutral light

if its not working it may think its in gear

Yes, neutral light works OK

To me this sounds like someone has been playing with the wires and it effectively kills the system when the stand is lowered

will it start with the bike in gear ? as you may find if someone has been there playing tehy may have the wires mixed around ... so the stand switch is connected to the gear cutout and vice versa

It will start in gear with the stand up, but not when it is down.