rider555

I think you done well to have them 14 years, I bought recently some cheaper textile trousers of ebay, if you looking at ebay when I went for my usual size they are bit bigger where if you go for jacket they opposite and need to get size up.

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Hey all,

So not posted much on here but with the sun being out I finally got round to having another go a fixing my rs125, after about 4 years of storage.

Now briefly, I had the crank rebuilt by PJME some 4-5 years ago (bare in mind bike has done ZERO miles since this) as the conrod had movement in it. I also replaced the main bearings and ALL the crank case bearings and seals. Put the it all back together and DAMN, its knocking. It was a consistant knock that happened at the same point on every revolution of the crank.

After a bit of fumbling around and no success, I got fed up with it and busy with work so it ended up being dry stored, until yesterday...

So where I am at now is, I took all the engine apart as I thought id'e missed a washer off the gearbox which might cause one of the cogs to foul against something, but fortunately I cannot see any evidence of anything fouling on the cases or gears. So I assume this wasn't the case. All the bearings feel nice and smooth still too.

The only sign of damage I can see, is on the piston and barrel. What looks like typical scoring/scrapes. Here's some pictures of said piston and barrel.

What do you think, could this be the cause of the knocking? Bear in mind the piston and rings are relatively new with probably less the 1000 miles on them.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/tomo9992/piston%20and%20barrel/WP_20180325_22_55_05_Pro.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/tomo9992/piston%20and%20barrel/WP_20180325_22_55_29_Pro_1.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w91/tomo9992/piston%20and%20barrel/WP_20180325_22_53_41_Pro_1.jpg

I use to race 1/5 scale models with 2 stroke engines and only time I have seen that sort of scoring was down to lack of lube or some sort of particals, how deep are the scoring?

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A good tip with scabby wiring is to dip the end in flux before soldering (plumbers flux works well).

Careful.....some plumber's flux is incredibly aggressive and if you don't clean the joint after soldering it will eventually (or sooner!) fail due to corrosion.

This stuff is great, very nice neat solder joints

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253018379203

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Result.

The crank pick up is under the left hand engine cover - it's the little black box on the left in this pic:

What year are the clocks you used? I'm tempted to get a set to replace the Chinesetastic one's I'm currently using.

ahh ok, didn't know that

The clocks are from 2005 model, I think they change them from 2008 where they have another wire for FI light- engine fault light or something like that, just had a quick look at back picture, wiring looks the same as older models just have that extra wire for FI light, the easy way to spot newer clocks is the will have white shadow around needles and white digits, older have yellow digits.

Little update, rev counter now only revs to 11k, not sure that's how it should be or not as the original was a bit off is well, so looks like replacing ground wire in cluster loom sorted everything out.

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The reason I say about the rev counter is that it doesn't sound like it's doing what's being displayed. If it is then it's all gravy - you'll find out when you take it up the road, if it says you're pulling 15k then you may have to fiddle.

I did a clocks swap on my project and found that I got spurious readings when taking from the coils and tapping directly in to the crank pick-up sorted it.

A good tip with scabby wiring is to dip the end in flux before soldering (plumbers flux works well).

Can you give bit more details what do you mean about crank pick up, don't think the lexmoto have any sensors there.

I got the fuel gauge working and back light on volt meter now.

Still some work left.

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Looks good.

You might have to fiddle about with the resistance of the fuel sender to get the gauge to read correctly.

For the rev counter - check where the signal is coming from - you might need to tap directly in to the pickup wire to get it to read right depending where the CBR gets it's signal from.

Fuel gauge should work as I am using the same from Lexmoto with lexmoto loom, will check resistance on sender unit, rev counter If I am correct CBR take the same signal as Lexmoto from Ignition coil, looking at the tacho markings are Pulse/IGN and Ground Pulse = signal wire, IGN=12v supply and Ground.

Done some cable replacement on loom as I found the ground wire had some corrosion inside, bit of oxidization on connectors is well, all clean now and ready for testing.

Yes you right to some extend, I had to use mobile phone for more accurate speedo and easy read but the whole point of this was that I won't have to do this and don't want my phone strapped to handler bars or satnav, for what it cost me for used set of clocks from ebay I think is worth it. Some might say you should know how fast you going by the feel but I can't say just yet need more experience. Like I said some might see as pointless.

Here is little video to show its working, will do another tomorrow once I get better back light on volt meter and fuel gauge working, hoping the speedo will be more accurate now.

https://youtu.be/T6qCiRbapz8

I got feed up with reading small MPH dials on lexmoto xtrs clocks, as most of you will know main clocks is in Kph and you get poxy green Mph digits plus the lexmoto speedo are out about 8-10 mph, I have seen this been done on some sort of blog but the guy done only speedo swap with rev fascia as the rev counter won't fit in lexmoto housing, well I decided I was going to run CBR clocks housing with both speedo and rev counter, some modification required, using original lexmoto loom,

1) you need to join indicators as CBR have only 1 light for them, remove both Green wires and feed orange and light blue wire in to same bulb holder, light works

2) you need to swap temp gauge for volt meter from Lexmoto as there are air cooled and don't have water temp sensor

3) fuel gauge from lexmoto as CBR one have another capacitor and not sure if that will work, will test it at later date

4) you need to trim black housing down a bit where is very pointy at front of clocks otherwise they wont fit

5) volt meter very dim as CBR housing have extra shade around bulb so need to cut this down

I have couple of problems - fuel gauge not working for some reason, using lexmoto loom and lexmoto fuel gauge, worked before,rev counter revs to 13k not sure how accurate this is, I am putting all this down to connection, removed clocks now and re-soldered joints ect. will fit tomorrow and test it.

"Question is anyone know if removing ground wire from indicator lights could create a problem with fuel gauge"

To some it might be waste of time on "ching" bike but for me is learning

Hi people just a quick one really, I ain’t had my r6 that long, but now looking to get a few bits sorted ready for the summer, on the right hand it has few scratches and scraping marks on from previous owner, and then when I had it stored in the garden the wind got the better of it and blew it on its side, luckily it didn’t land completely on its side and went up against a wall, but did a slight crack on he fairing around the headlight, just wondered if anyone could recommend me a company who could get this sprayed and sorted for me, I’m located in Essex so somewhere localish would be sweet

Many thanks Adam

How about wrapping the panels?

Well last year I said I just get 125 and be done with it to poodle around,in all honesty I was happy with it until I had a go on my friend 1200cc bike (private road before anyone asks and we been riding few times so he knew I can handle it), how do you choose the right school or individual instructor? I booked my theory and sort of making few phone calls and asking questions, 2 examples

Rung sort of school, and after few minutes conversation works out where I choose how many session I want and just pay that amount, sort of made me feel like just give as the money and hope for the best.

Then I rung Individual bloke who dose it by him self, we spoke what sort of riding I done and after few min conversation he offered to take me out on big bike to so how I get on and what sort of time he will need to spend with me, he did quote prices for 3/4/5 sessions inc test ect. to give me idea what costs are involved but it felt he was more interested of teaching me then just taking money.

I think I know where I would be going but also looking what sort of question you guys ask???

I done the rear brakes last week and was very easy to bleed, now the front was a pig of a job for some reason, most likely because the fluid drained from pipe on floor and caliper was empty where the rear had fluid in pipe and I filled the caliper with fluid before putting on bike, oh well lesson learned.

That AJP kit might work

I do wonder if this would work

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cbr_125_rb/11/picture/piston_seal_and_dust_seal_front_brake/

Hi, Not sure if these would be of use, but first clean grooves out like everyone else has said, brakes still won't work with new seals, if grooves are still full of crud!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caliper-Piston-Seal-Kit-25mm-x-27mm-AJP-Caliper-Pair/282868132216?hash=item41dc412978:g:5KkAAOSwmudaAvzM

 

Doesn't 25 x 27 mean outside diameter 27 mm ?

25mm diameter and 27mm piston length

Honestly I don't think you'll get away with 25.5mm seals, they have to be a proper good fit. What makes you think the dust seals are worn, they don't see a lot of action really?

I'd be tempted to clear out the seal grooves and reuse the old seals..

I did exactly this for now, the thin duster they might not see lot of action but definitely get lot of crap on them.

trouble is there are not many 150cc bikes in the uk any more will have to see what i can find out from honda

I had same problem on my lexmoto 125 when at full throttle misfired few times original jet was odd size 94.5, replaced with 100 jet and all good, with your 150cc I would say start at 100/105 and run it see if works, you will need to even go higher if other changes has been made like free flowing exhaust or air filter, you will find this will be more of trail and error, also make sure your air filter is nice and clean.

Hi

I'm looking for 25mm Piston seal kits, is for Lexmoto XTRS but they don't sell them so after striping calipers and inspecting them I notice the duster seal are a bit worn, looking around I can find 25.5mm seal kits but nothing in 25mm. Do you reckon I get away with it 0.5mm difference.

If anyone needs to know if your brakes sticking on lexmoto XTRS most likely is not down to the piston fault, Caliper have 2 sliding pins one of them goes inside rubber boot and the other just have little external rubber then slides in to alloy, any water gets in there creating corrosion on that pin and stick, even when you pistons release caliper body can't adjust, I must admit the metal on that pin is crap and take care when removing rust ect, as sanding down to much you will reduce pin diameter and have lot more problem. Piston Dimension 25mm wide 27mm long.

I'm not sure but most likely that carb on Arizona will have 2 throttle cables going there, is not a problem you just have to remove that 2nd cable where they split or fit Honda throttle cable, someone did mention about improvement once they fitted original Honda cg carb to there lexmoto, mine lexmoto carb improved once I replaced main jet from 95 to 100, this wasn't done for performance gains just runs lot better.

Hi

Need to fit new boots for that lighting lexmoto that I have , I have been looking around and getting a bit confused because most of tyres in this size are listed for front, only managed to find conti go and Pirelli mt75 for rear, I mainly ride in dry but wouldn't mind getting something better for wet grip is well.

Anyone can advice please.

Think we're sorted, pulled the plug and found it to be very black and wet. Cleaned it up and checked the gapping before refitting, my son got up to 60 (downhill,wind assisted). I've got a colortune plug so will have a go at setting up the carb and will be fitting an inline fuel filter to stop any crap in the tank buggering up the flow.

glad you got it sorted, I had to google it what you mean by colortune plug , after quick read very handy thing to have , might invest in one

I only rode it for about 10 miles to see if it was causing the problem..

Also it's done 10000km since February this year

Unplugging "faulty" regulator won't show up anything, you only draining your battery riding with out plugged in, you might have other problem somewhere else but you need to check few things over, 10k since Feb that bike of yours deserves good service and looking after, getting new carb at this moment is no point, and I tell you now adjusting that carb is not fun at all when is on bike, you can barely get screw driver on to idle screw never mind on fuel/air mixture screw which is just in front of carb above starter motor.

If you decide to strip that carb you want to make sure needle clip is in middle, air fuel mix screw on mine is best at 2 and 1/2 turn out from close, I fitted new main jet 100 as the std one that was fitted was 94.5 to small for that bike.

In all honesty £100 just for check is not bad but at the same time quoting price for a job then saying is extra to adjust is silly unless the bloke reckons they won't need doing, so if you think £140 plus cost of new shims is not bad, looks like lot of work, there is video on youtube for Tiger 1050 not sure if yours is the same engine or not but is good guide what to expect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5dgiD7k4po

Sorry late reply

I rode my bike without regulator connected and it still has a problem with electronics.

Also I have 4 days off next week and will keep adjusting my carb until it gets better if it does not I will get an new carb

Another thing I can't remember if I mentioned is that a few weeks before I was getting the fuel problems was that my bike would backfire a few times when riding but that has now stopped.

You can't ride with out regulator connected, it controls charging circuit, so no wonder you still have problem with electrics, you know what you need to check so unplugging things wont help

Sounds Ok now with out excessive tappy noise or rattle, this lexmoto have copy of CG engine, I found CG manual and they recommended valve clearance 0.08 but lexmoto website saying 0.05, also heard that some set exhaust side 0.15? I will stick with 0.05 on both sides for now but very interested what will happen when exhaust is set at 0.15? tap tap tap tap

A tight valve will stick slightly open losing compression and also no doing the valve seats any good!

so you may well be running more power now!

Thanks for reply, will keep a eye out how it runs now, might strip the engine in December to have a look at the internals, Best £3.98 I spend on this bike so far