Martink13

I removed the cam shafts when replacing the shim. Sure I haven’t slipped a tooth as it’s not that much out, it’s half a tooth out if that makes sense. On the crank, what is the line for and the ‘point’ for that is at the bottom of the hole? I’ll have to get photos tomorrow for better explanation.

Hello all. After advice again. I have checked the valve clearances and had to reshim 1 exhaust valve. All are within tolerance now so have started to put back together. I have also fitted a manual cam chain tensioner and tightened finger tight. With this all back together I have noticed that the intake cam mark is slightly below level with the head. Exhaust cam is perfectly level with head. I have lined up the crank marking with with the indicator at the bottom. This leaves the ‘TI’ mark lining up with the notch at about 2oclock, however, is sitting more inline with the ‘T’ rAther than the ‘I’ line next to it. Do you think that the cam chain is likely to be stretched? If so from what I’ve described, would you say it will need replacing or is within tolerance. Thanks. Martin.

Part 5, Ye your right. Mint. Thanks for your help

Thanks. But they are for 2011-2013

When/if I get the cam holders off, do I NEED to replace the spark plug seals, as it says in the manual? If they look ok, can I reuse them? If I do need to replace them, can someone let me know where to get them from.

Loosening about an 1/8 turn in sequence until they all became loose. The cam holders are all still down on cylinder head. I think I’m going to have to try some gentle persuasion... maybe in form of a 14lb hammer

Hi All. I have bought a Haynes Manual and am currently checking the valve clearances. All are within tolerance apart from 1 exhaust valve Spec for the exhaust valve clearance is 0.25mm-0.31mm. This valve is at 0.22mm. I attempting to remove the cam shaft holders and is proving to be a c**t. I’m undoing all the bolts in sequence but the holders aren’t coming away. I don’t want to pry at it with everything being ally. Also it says in the manual to replace the spark plug seals, that are u see the cam holders, if removed. I can’t source these seals anywhere. Getting to my question now.. Shall I torque back down and start on the rebuild, or does that 1 valve really need re-shimming?

Thank you for your advice. I’ll carry out everything you have suggested. The rattle went away once was warmed up. I’ll replace the cam chain and tensioner to the manual adjust type anyway.

Hi. I have today bought a 2004 CBR600RR which I intend on converting to a track bike. It does have high mileage at 46k miles and I have no history. I want to make sure it is mechanically sound. Is there anything I should carry out or replace on it at this mileage. I believe the cam chain needs tensioning as there is a rattle when revving from cold. Will check valve clearances, obvs oil filter changes, spark plugs etc. Any other recommendations? Much appreciated. Martin.