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1 hour ago, Yorky said:

 

 

I would say that was a subtle hint that the exhaust is f****d

there is nothing wrong with it lol literally just the tinny shroud that sits over it that got dented. Actual exhaust is fine, no rust just needs a clean. So for someone who wants to go back to stock or just needs a cheap replacement exhaust, will do fine.

I actually went to view a bike before i bought mine and he had (which i now realise is) a stock exhaust with the cover removed, but he must have gutted out the silencer because it sounded mean.

5 hours ago, Copycat73 said:

you`ll get more weighing in the exhaust.... than trying to sell it ...

really, or..? im not sure if it was joke or not  what's the scrap value for that roughly

Few bits for sale for the MT07.

1. Original exhaust off a 2019. Good condition. Only damage is on the shroud/muffler cover, dented on top. £50

2. Pair of mirrors brand new condition £15

3. Single RH mirror came originally with bike. £7

4. 1x R&G crash protection bung - this was a left hand side one from a set, but i'm pretty sure they can go which ever side you want, just flip the center cap to suit. Maybe someone can confirm that. £30

thanks. drop a text if interested 07843176796

2 hours ago, Stu said:

 

Speak to a tuner that knows these bikes and they will advise the best course of action 

 

But a decent tuner will use software that will self learn no matter what mods you make it will tune to the A/F ratio that it needs to be so changing something won't affect anything as the ECU will re learn 

 

 

http://www.hilltopmotorcycles.co.uk/

 

I am going to be using these guys as they are well known for remapping BMW's  

 

 

just dropped them an email

9 hours ago, Stu said:

I would rather go with a remap than a booster plug. 

 

With a booster plug you are just trying to fool the ecu 

 

Where as with a remap you alter the full fuel table including ignition and you can also alter a lot more while in there too 

yea i have read that ecu tends to do a better job, but with a power commander (or similar) you can just remove it and your back to stock. Saying that, most places offer unlimited flashes after the initial payment (in case you make further mods)

12 hours ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/boosterplug-yamaha-mt-07-570p.html

 

You can buy them from UK suppliers if you look around. I added one to my Bobber and it transformed the low speed engine response.

interesting, havn't seen this one before. About £140. How does it work, you they have maps you download online? Did you find one specific to your mods?

Also, what did you find with the mpg afterwards?

7 hours ago, MikeHorton said:

What about this sort of flash? 

i contacted a flashing company, he said tbh i won't see much gains in power, would mostly be refinement in terms of getting smoother throttle response and less engine braking. TBH neither of those bother me, and the engine braking it handy when zooming around london, extra stopping power and less wear on the pads

i need to hear from somone with an mt07 whos actually done it and doesn't suffer from placebo syndrome

2 hours ago, Stu said:

I dare say that the MT will auto re learn the air to fuel ratio of what the bike has fitted and it will be running OK in relation to how it left the factory ie it will be running the same air to fuel ratio it was made to run. 

 

These ecu's are pretty clever these days and can self adjust and that's what the 02 sensors are for. 

 

Having said that every bike will benefit from a remap and would be totally worth it! 

 

I'm going to be getting my ecu remapped eventually 

yes came across this also, as like you said it is the 02 sensors job. Think i'll go for it anyway to unlock its full potential.

1 hour ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

It's not entirely clear if you're talking just a replacement exhaust system or also air box modifications.

 

If you're going for the air box mods then you would benefit more from a remap. 

 

Many modern bikes run silly lean settings at low throttle inputs but you can improve that issue with a booster plug if you're getting snatchy throttle symptoms.

 

 

hello mate, yea I only have exhaust system atm. I don't think i'll be upgrading any airbox systems....maybe I'll change the lid to something more free flowing, but im also in the midst of researching that as its unclear if there are any real gains.

is that plug something like the power commanders?

Had a little search on here but couldn't find much.

Got an mt07 2019 with full exhaust system, had it on there for prob 2 years now. Considering getting an ecu flash after reading a few different things online.

Main points being:

• air fuel mixture should be corrected - apparently these bikes come out the shop already running lean to meet emission standards. Throwing a full exhaust system on there (or upgraded filter and air box....or both) increases the air take and messes with the fuel air ratio making it run even more lean, hence all the much loved pops and bangs 
• letting it run lean, means the engine runs hotter and could apparently damage your valves
• should also optimise the performance based on your mods, and now that it breathes better you can correct the ratio and gain some horses or torquages

my main reason is to reduce any valve damage tbh, and if i can get some extra fun in the means of torque then thats great also. When I first got my pipe on I did notice some low end torque loss, which i believe is something to do with some loss in back pressure etc. still don't quite understand the full science of that yet.

I love my exhaust system, sounds great. Also, "loud pipes save lives" is very much true! Keeps me seen/heard... which is most important after previously having a careless pedestrian run out into the road, looking the other way with earphones on, knocking me off my bike.

HOWEVER, i've also read that it can cause a MPG hit, which nobody wants to hear in todays climate. I don't even know what my mpg tbh, but i know its fairly good still despite the cost of a full tank creeping up. I've read online people going from 60 to 45mpg, which sounds like quite a hit.

SO, i just wanted to see if anyone on here actually had a flash done and could give me some feedback. Mt07 with full system would be ideal, but appreciate all replies. thanks

1 hour ago, Stu said:

 

I have fitted my own tyres for a lot of years now! 

 

I had a brake disc bent by some monkey!

 

So I just look for the cheapest tyres delivered to my door in the brand that I want. The last set I bought cost me £201 delivered the local shop wanted £330 fitted to lose wheels  

 

fitted and balanced when it suited me for £201 I really can't grumble at that 

 

I have a manual tyre changer and it takes about 7 minutes to remove and fit a tyre from a rim 

nice, definitely save yourself a good amount £. Yea I got quotes from 350 to 420 fitted! So just did same as you and shopped for the cheapest online. 

how do you go about balancing them,  is your manual tyre fitter set up for this also? 

On 01/06/2022 at 11:34, bud said:

I think it can vary a lot, what you pay for tyres. Last time I paid £30 to loose wheels. This included getting rid of the old tyres, and fitting new valves.

Was talking to people about this a little while ago, and anywhere from £10 to £20 per wheel seems average.

yea I've heard from £15 a wheel, upwards. 

got a good deal online, £165 for a set. So even if its 50 quid that's just over 200 for new tyres fitted, Which is decent really, motorcycle tyres can be costly. 

I'll get most use out of these tyres as I cna be for i swap em over

On 30/05/2022 at 15:34, Throttled said:

If you can, get your bike serviced during the winter months, when dealers are quiet and there is often a discount going.

good tip, thanks

whilst were all here... have any of you had tyres fitted that you've supplied yourself.... how much did you pay?

I've only rang one place so far, im in london, i got 50/60 quid roll in roll out. I'll ring a few other places shop around. If its a good enough saving may consider removing the wheels and take them into the shop, but rather not tbh.

2 hours ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

I don't know about yours but mine are done via the software. 

tbh i don't have a clue how they do it mate. my original posting was more or less to see if this was a real thing that needed to be done, or just a money maker for them. i think i will just save myself a load of cash and service myself from now on.

brake hoses next year most likely

air filter isn't listed until 24k... will check and clean the hose though

has a valve clearance at 24k interval... i won't be able to do this i assume. is this something people do, or just if its not running correctly?

22 minutes ago, Stu said:

 

I have never known a need to clean and check spray patterns unless there is a problem and that's a specialist job 

 

Adjusting synchronisation is just balancing the throttle bodies 

i see, well they were probably just trying to make it sound like something specialist and essential. I wouldn't be surprised if they charged me for it without doing any "balancing" or work to it at all. After all, how would anyone know without watching them 

22 hours ago, fullscreenaging said:

Go for braided line and you never have to change the lines again, just the fluid. 
Look for wez moto lines. They are essentially Hel lines rebranded. 

i was right with ya until i saw how much they were  but your right, when they need changing be worth spending the extra to get some braided ones. add a little colour pop with it also

20 hours ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

For brake fluid change I can recommend the Motion Pro tool from Dirtbikexpress. It combines a handy rachet with a tube and one way valve. I use it on both my bikes, the Bobber's rear caliper bleed nipple is fiddly to get at, it makes the job an absolute doddle. Just make sure you order the right size for your bleed nipples. 

 

 

sounds handy, i'll look into this

18 hours ago, Pie man said:

My manual for the MT07 change brake lines every 4 years - Braided lines next if the rubber has degraded enough 

yea my mistake, was the fluid that says every 2 years. Got another year before i need to start thinking about hoses then

18 hours ago, Stu said:

What the hell is an injector balance  

 

Do you mean throttle body balance? 

essentially its just cleaning and checking spray patterns of the injectors/adjusting synchronisation. Its in the manual for more or less every service interval. Groups it together with checking idle speed....which i assume is the throttle body balance you are referring to.

cheers guys 

yea i'm gonna change my plugs too. Just ordered some plugs, oil, filter and rear pads.

Never changed brake fluid before - not sure if its been done previously in any of the services. Says brake caliper servicing but not sure if that included fluid changes. So should prob get that done also. I'll have a look on youtube for a tutorial. 

Just looking at the manual , says to change brake lines every 2 years. Something that needs to be done?

thanks for the replies. yea I think I'll do the work myself. most of it is straight forward, and anything that is not is good to learn! 

how often do you guys replace brake fluids?

and how often spark plugs? or is it the same story and leave them unless it's not running normal.. 

thanks

Hi all,

Due another service on the MT07. Currently on about 15k.

Had its 1st 600mile service and 2nd 6k service (which was done at more like 9k due to lockdown delays).

Got a quote from my usual garage for £350.

• oil and filter change
• spark plugs replacement
• injector balance
• brake caliper service
• ecu check
• overall basic check (greasing stuff, lubing cables, chain adj etc)

price seems a bit steep to me, the parts can be purhcased for around 70 quid, which makes that £280 labour!

I can do all that stuff myself, minus the injector balance and ecu check. I imagine the most labour intensive part is the injectors and plugs.

My question is, is the injector balance really needed? I know it suggests in the manual at certain intervals and in an ideal world you'd follow all steps and check everything as regular as possible. But in the real world where energy costs are through the roof  i like most people am trying to save a pound note where possible. 

I'm also due new tyres which as most of you know is another chunk of £. Need some pads on the rear too, can find them cheap enough online but my dealer won't put on parts they haven't purchased themselves, but they offer the exact same product at a higher price. I suppose they just purchase direct from one supplier and don't shop around for deals as I do.

Anyway appreciate some advice. I know plenty of people who just change oil and filter regularly themselves and not much else, who claim thats all you need to keep it going.

I see. Is that buggered as in will need replacing, or adjusting?

Is this a job that I could attempt, or do you need to take engine apart lol

If it was this, are there any dangers to keep riding as is?

Thanmsy

Could be a bearing that's shot or something, where bouts you from?

North London bud

The bike is making some weird noises, which sound like it's coming from the gearbox. Generally the bike feels as though it drives and pulls well, apart from these noises. When I let off the throttle you can hear it quite a bit . I check the sprocket and chains etc. but seems like it's mechanical inside. The best way I can describe it is like there is a bits of metal inside getting flicked around inside.

Anyone with some experience on what this might be? I done the oil change incase that might help but it didn't affect it. Worried the gearbox or something is on its way out lol

 

It could be a gearbox issue, but the only time I had the kind of noises you describe it was the chain. It looked perfect but when I replaced it the bike ran smooth and silent. Worth a try ?

Yea I suppose it's possible. That's what I suspected it at first because I started noticing it after I replaced the sprocket and cleaned the chain etc. Thought maybe the sprocket wasn't sitting right or maybe a stiff link or something. Took it all off and out back on again, same issue. Maybe I'll double check again.

It could be the CCT if you're certain the chain and sprockets are ok.

What is a CCT?

If you don’t know when it was last serviced then give the bike a service. Kits are cheap enough on eBay and it’s easy to do yourself. Check and adjust the tyre pressures, and chain/sprockets (lube) whilst you’re at it.

Any questions or help you need just ask.

 

Thanks Adam, what else would you involve in a service?

Up to date, I have:

replaced front sprocket and retainer bracket (old one fell off lol)

Re-adjust, cleaned and lubed the chain.

Drained and changed the oil. I removed the filter, which was like a little metal mesh thimble lol gave that a good clean and re-installed it.

I'll double check what my tyre pressures are supposed to be.

What else would you recommend?

 

Air filter and fuel filter, are all pads road worthy?

Yep I checked air filter, looked fine. Clean and oiled.

Haven't checked the fuel filter or pads. I'll have to check the manual on how to do those. The front is a pad, the rear brake is a drum.

The bike is making some weird noises, which sound like it's coming from the gearbox. Generally the bike feels as though it drives and pulls well, apart from these noises. When I let off the throttle you can hear it quite a bit . I check the sprocket and chains etc. but seems like it's mechanical inside. The best way I can describe it is like there is a bits of metal inside getting flicked around inside.

Anyone with some experience on what this might be? I done the oil change incase that might help but it didn't affect it. Worried the gearbox or something is on its way out lol

If you don’t know when it was last serviced then give the bike a service. Kits are cheap enough on eBay and it’s easy to do yourself. Check and adjust the tyre pressures, and chain/sprockets (lube) whilst you’re at it.

Any questions or help you need just ask.

Thanks Adam, what else would you involve in a service?

Up to date, I have:

replaced front sprocket and retainer bracket (old one fell off lol)

Re-adjust, cleaned and lubed the chain.

Drained and changed the oil. I removed the filter, which was like a little metal mesh thimble lol gave that a good clean and re-installed it.

I'll double check what my tyre pressures are supposed to be.

What else would you recommend?

Yea I checked levels both when cold and warm, level is about half way between full and empty.

However I'll prob give it an oil change anyway. I read up that 125s destroy oil quickly, not sure when it was last changed, and it's cheap enough and easy enough to do so why not.

That window looks empty to me :s

 

I fail to understand why a 125cc bike would have BOTH a dip stick AND a sight glass, this makes absolutely no sense to me. especially on a bike that comes with a centre stand as standard. I have just read.. so it may not be true, that your bikes engine is an almost direct copy of the Yamaha YBR. which is a bike whose owners manual demands that the bike be level on its centre stand to check the oil level. The dip stick should be, taken out, cleaned and the put back in just resting on its 'hole' - not screwed in.

ybr oil check.png

Yes doesn't really make sense. But thanks for the info and image, looks like I checked it the correct way.

I fail to understand why a 125cc bike would have BOTH a dip stick AND a sight glass

 

Most have both!

Normally the dip stick is riding the bike

Haha

Hi all thanks for the responses.

To answer some of your questions...

I have a zontes tiger 125.

Unfortunately I cannot get hold of the manual anywhere, doesn't seem to be a common bike here in UK, so it alike gold dust lol

As for keeping the bike level, I used the other built in stand - not the side kick stand, the one with two legs that lifts the rear wheel of the bike, like mopeds have.

That window looks empty to me :s

Was having a look at the oil level, and it seems that it has a dipstick just like a car...

But also has this bubble gauge thing, like it does for the brake fluid, but I personally cannot see anything in it. Is this for the oil also or something different?

Thanks