TC1474

Not sure if there is an 'under 21' rule to do advanced training and the test, might be worth checking out? Having said that I could ask at Squires if you want? Not for RoSPA there isn't - well not for training as for being a trainer I think that may be different ? RoSPA have just publicised there youngest ever instructor/observer. Passed his advanced test at Gold level aged 17, now qualified as an observer aged 18. Not sure whether he has the credibility or experience to be able to command respect from older students, but it confirms that if you are good enough, you are old enough. I have examined quite a few riders in their late teens and some of them have been outstanding

As a senior RoSPA advanced motorcycle examiner, former IAM examiner and one of the team who wrote and delivered the RoSPA diploma course for many years, I concur with everything that Hoody has said. However, a few years ago a common standard was agreed between RoSPA, The IAM, Diamond Advanced and the DSA where it was agreed that the IAM pass would be the equal of the RoSPA bronze simply because the IAM had no facility in place to seperate those who just scrape through to those who are of a really good standard. However, I believe that this is now under review, and it may well be decided that an IAM pass becomes the equal of a Silver, but this has to be agreed by those higher up the chain than me. In days when I used to run the diploma course (instructor qualification) we used to get IAM riders come on the course and much of the first day used to be spent getting these guys up to a standard that was acceptable (not all, but quite a few), and usually they went away much better riders than when they arrived. I belive the rules have since been relaxed. To give you an idea of what an examiner is looking for and how a test is conducted, have a read through this http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 47&t=27297 One thing to bear in mind with Bikesafe, is that depending on the Force area, not everyone uses class 1 riders and many are not qualified instructors, and it is only intended as an introduction to the principles of advanced riding.

Really? Thats a new one. Armour will not stop you breaking a bone, it will simply disipate some of the shock, and in fact in some cases some armour can actually contribute to breaking bones.

When CBT was first introduced is did actually last for the life of your licence, but fewer and fewer people were taking their full test and so 2 or 3 years after it was introduced there was a major review. It was decided that the only way people may be encouraged to take their full test would be to give the DL196 a life span of 2 years. Originally, anyone who failed to pass their test within the life span of their CBT certificate was disquaified for 12 months, but this was considered unfair, and so the 2 year retake rule was introduced, firstly to ensure that their skills were brushed up on, and secondly to avoid penalising those who simply use a bike for commuting too harshly. For many of the younger riders who don't go onto take their test, 70% of what they were taught is forgotten within a very short period of time, and so by having to take it again ensures that they are riding at least at a minimum standard, and hopefully will be the encouragement to take their test. Plus the DSA make additional money on all the certificates the training schools have to purchase which used to be £250 for a book of 20, and is probably considerably more now.

It is intended for full (Bike) licence holders only. The difference between riding as a learner and preparing for the L test and advanced riding is vast and will simply cause confusion, although some forces have and are looking at introducing a similar scheme for the less experienced or L riders.

It does not require a kite mark anymore, but it should be stamped up with EC22/05 which will be somewhere on the helmet, often under the lining. The kite mark relates to BS 6658-85 which is the old standard. still valid but replaced by the EC mark.

How would you police and enforce it? I see too regularly people who have had an accident and their brand name protective clothing which cost them a fortune has actuually made their injuries worse. Who would determine what is decent protection and what isn't bearing in mind that the majority of injuries are either to the head or lower body, legs and feet. You would then have to train the dealers (many of whom do not have a clue), the authorities who would police it, the insurers (who definately don't have a clue) and in some case the manufacturers whose idea of protection is based entirely on their track experience which is a different discipline to being on the road. As mentioned, we already have too many regs and laws, but this would simply open up an even bigger can of worms.

Head injuries, although often the most serious, are not the only injuries motorcyclists suffer. Leg and arm injuries are common, and leg injuries in particular can be serious often causing permanent disability. Under the EC personal protective equipment directive, a series of European standards were developed for motorcyclist protective clothing that was designed to. 1. Prevent or reduce laceration and abrasion injuries. 2. Prevent or reduce impact injuries such as fractures, broken bones and joint damage. These standards marked with a CE mark are essentially to help riders distinguish between clothing that offers a minimal level of protection, and garments that may look similar but offers very little if any protection at all. Unfortunately for many riders, the buying of new leathers is often no more than a fashion statement as opposed to a desire to maximise their protection, but, contrary to popular believe you can be fashionable and protected. As with helmets, there are accidents and injuries from which even the best or most expensive clothing will not protect the rider for various reasons. It is therefore important not only to try and reduce the severity of the injury as best as you can, but also ensure that the garment is comfortable, does not impede the movement of the rider and will reduce the affects of fatigue thereby aiding concentration. Leather is still regarded as the best form of protection against injury when riding a motorcycle. They are made from a natural material, which is breathable, abrasion resistant and supple. Like a crash helmet, they cannot offer total protection from injury, but they can reduce the severity and long term affects if they fit correctly. Leather garments can be made from 4 different animals, Cow, which is the most commonly used, Goatskin, Buffalo or kangaroo skin. Cowhide is the preferred choice of most manufacturers. It is heavy duty (compared with the others). It is hard wearing, and in the main the manufacturers use 1.4mm thick hides, which means that in the summer weather with the thickness and all the padding they can get hot inside. Buffalo hide is often used on cheaper garments and this can be felt in the overall quality when compared to other leather products. Buffalo is tough, will last well but it tends to be a very stiff leather and can take some time to bed in and soften up. Goatskin although worth considering as an alternative for summer use is very difficult to find in the UK. It is considerably lighter and more flexible than Cowhide, and many consider the goatskin to be stronger than cowhide due to the fibres being more closely knit together than cow skin. The downside is that goatskin stretches a lot quicker than cow so it may require specialist tailoring on an annual basis. Kangaroo is probably the least known of the hides used although they are being used more regularly in very hot climates. The hides are supple, light and quite tough, but it has been found that they can react with sweat particularly when worn by riders who perspire freely. If this were the case then you would probably be well advised to look elsewhere as you may find your suit literally coming apart at the seams. For those considering purchasing leathers for the first time, the question often asked is whether to purchase a suit/jacket combination, two piece suit or a 1 piece racing suit. The choice comes down to individual preference, but here are a few points that you may find useful to consider. 1. A jacket and trouser combination is probably the most popular choice for the majority of riders, and, they can be worn singularly or in combination. However, many jackets (not all) have a Thinsulate lining for warmth retention together with a quilted lining. Many riders complain that they overheat in warm weather which can ultimately affect concentration. However, this combination is ideal if you are an awkward size or on a limited budget. 2. A two piece zip together suit can be a good choice for a number of reasons. They can normally only be worn as a complete garment thereby maintaining your crash protection. They come in a number of colour choices therefore conspicuity can be enhanced. They are normally lighter than jacket/trouser combinations which for some means they will be more comfortable for summer or warm weather use. When stopping for a break, the jacket can be unzipped from the trousers thereby enhancing comfort when away from the bike. They maintain their shape and size better. They often have features such as perforated leather to allow air to pass through in warm weather, stretch fabric panels behind the knees, waist and inner thighs which again can enhance warm weather comfort. On the downside, it is worth bearing in mind that:- They can normally only be worn as a complete suit. They can take a while to break in and mould to your shape. They are not particularly warm in the colder weather. There are not as many pockets as in a jacket/trouser combination, which for some may be a good thing. The colours tend to be more flamboyant than jacket/trouser combinations. 1 Piece suits are the other alternative often favoured by those who ride Supersports or participate in track days. Whilst offering a fair degree of protection, for road use they have often been deemed impractical as you cannot separate them when away from the motorcycle, but more importantly in serious accident situations, the emergency services have occasionally experienced difficulty in rendering an effective diagnosis or treatment simply because they cannot cut through the leather to tend to the riders injuries, or they cannot risk removing the garment without fear of causing further injury. This of course comes down to a matter of preference. Leather is abrasion resistant, and its main function is allow you to slide, thereby reducing friction. From new, leathers should fit as tightly as possible to allow for stretching and moulding to the wearer’s shape. If the leather is a poor fit then there is the possibility that as the rider slides down the road, the friction caused by the road surface will cause the leather to snag. This could cause a flailing limb to snag and whilst the torso is still travelling at speed, the flailing limb will slow down too quickly and can result in severe injury. On the plus side, a good fitting leather can slow down any potential blood loss, particularly internal blood loss, or it can at least stem the flow until medical help arrives on the scene. If you are unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident as a result of which you are injured (and we all hope that it doesn’t happen), at least you can be comforted that the severity will be less than if you were wearing non protective clothing, and the sympathy you receive from the emergency services and Hospital will be far more favourable than your compatriot wearing his jeans and trainers.

By and large you are right. You are given one licence with various entitlements such as car, motorcycle, HGV etc. The probationary period commences from the date of the first full entitlement gained. So for example if you passed your car test in 2000, you will have held a full licence for 10 years. If you then pass your motorcycle test in the year 2010, you are given a new full entitlement, but your probationary period will have expired 8 years previously, so therefore the 6 point rule does not apply. If you are still within the probationary period and you end up losing your licence under these rules, in other words you revert back to being a learner, then you become a learner in all categories and therefore would have to retake both car and bike. If you are ordered to take a retest by the courts, then once you have taken one retest, your entiltlements for all categories are restored. Hope that makes sense.

The ACU gold mark is worthless. What is important is that it conforms to BS6658-85 (old standard) or the current EC22/05 which all helmets sold in the UK have to comply with. It is not about how much you spend it is about what fits you right, and the more expensive helmets are not always better quality.

Why do you need to buy helmets? If it is simply for an art project, why not ask people (perhaps on this site) to donate their old helmets and you pay the postage (which will be even cheaper) and that way you will get a mixture of materials, polycarb, fibre glass etc. Even old used helmets can be made to look pretty good, and no health and safety issues as they are not going to be used as you say.

By doing your advanced training soon after your test, you are still in learning mode and therefore receptive to new ideas. On the flip side, many riders have done intensive courses and the first six months is spent developing their confidence, so there are two fairly valid points of view. At the end of the day, the choice is yours. If you feel confident that you can take on board new ideas (bearing in mind that 99% of what you learn for the L test goes out of the window) then go for it, if not, then give it 6 months as this is still long enough for you to get some experience and build your confidence but still soon enough after test for you to be able to get back into "learning" mode.

I hear what you are saying, and by and large I agree with what you are saying, what I was trying to do (albeit badly ) was try to explain why so many groups and instructors are so rigid in their attitude towards speed, but there are two sides of the argument, both of which have (arguably) some merit.

Many forces have stopped issuing flip fronts for reasons I covered in previous threads. Don't forget, most Police kit is purchased by a supplies officer who does not know one end of a bike from another and willl go for price rather than quality. A lot of forces stopped issuing these helmets after complaints were made by the riders and many refused to ride wearing them.

Unlike a few years ago when we used to allow "Latitude " in terms of exceeding the speed limit, these days groups have to tow the official line and are not allowed to openly encourage any excess speed. However, turn it on its head and what are you going to learn when under instruction and everyone is racing around with a three digit number on their speedo? Certainly in the early stages, the speed needs to be kept lower so that the student/candidate can develop confidence in their positioning, observation skills, general roadcraft and the instructor needs to understand and assess the ability of their students and this cannot be done at silly speeds as apart from anything else it leaves the instructor open to all sorts of litigation problems if it goes pear shaped. But, advanced riding is not all about speed. The majority of riders who have undertaken training often find that although their speed drops in terms of actual miles per hour, they cover the ground more quickly because they are making better use of the road, they are planning everything earlier and so they actually cover the ground quicker than they did previously but with a much greater bubble of safety around them without reducing the fun factor, if anything the fun is enhanced.

If you join BAM, then the chances are we will meet as I am doing a presentation to the Birmingham Advanced Motorcycle group next year, (March if memory serves). Good bunch of guys there.

Local RoSPA groups can be found here http://www.roadar.org.uk/groups/index.htm Local IAM groups here http://www.iam.org.uk/iamgroupsdirectory/ Unfortunately, I don't do much 1 - 1 or private tuition anymore, I simply don't have the time, but I can certainly put you in touch with someone in your area if you would rather have personal tuition (which will cost) rather than going through a group which is cheaper.

Over the past 30 + years, if I had a pound for every time someone told me how much they would like to be an advanced riding examiner, I have no doubt that I would be a very wealthy (well quite wealthy) man by now. Many people believe that examiners get well paid for doing something that they enjoy, but in reality nothing could be further from the truth. In fact it is probably fair to say that, without exception, all of us do it because of our love of motorcycling, and it probably costs us money. So what does being an advanced riding examiner entail? At the moment, both the Institute of Advanced Motorists (IAM) and The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents (RoSPA) use only Police class 1 qualified riders. In the coming years this may change as many police forces are terminating their bike sections resulting in fewer riders being trained to the class 1 standard. I know that RoSPA are considering appointing diploma holders as examiners at some time in the future. All examiners are motorcyclists in their own right, and the majority choose to become examiners quite simply because, having had the benefit of possibly the best training in the world, it is a way of helping other riders to enhance their enjoyment and their riding standards. Test candidates are always nervous, and to be honest who wouldn’t be? So our first duty on meeting them is to try and put them at their ease and help them to relax. Before the test commences I always give the candidate a briefing of how the test will be conducted and I know that many of my colleagues do the same. I also explain what I am looking for and what they should do if a problem arises. Finally I emphasise the fun factor, after all I want to enjoy myself as well. This is usuallly done over a cup of coffee. The practical element of the test lasts for about 90 minutes, during which time as many different types of road and traffic situations as possible will be covered. The examiner will follow behind the candidate, varying their road position during the course of the ride to get an overview of how the candidate is performing. For example, the examiner may change position from being fairly close to the rear of the candidate’s machine to dropping some distance behind. The important thing is that the candidates should ride for themselves and ignore the examiner’s presence, which I appreciate is often easier said than done. Some examiners now use radio links, others use the old fashioned proven method of directing by indicators as this confirms what level of rear observation they are doing, something that radios cannoot do. During the course of the test, we are looking at every aspect of the ride. Does the rider have good observation skills? Do they read the road well? Do they plan well in advance? What is their road positioning like? Are they systemised? Are they smooth? Most importantly are they safe? We look at the overall picture and then make a determination as to what grade we feel they have merited or, in the case of the IAM test, whether they have attained the standard required to be given a pass. At the conclusion of the practical test, again, usually over a coffee, we will then ask a number of questions on the Highway Code and simple bike maintenance, before starting a debrief on how the candidate performed. The debrief is the candidate’s opportunity to make any points about the ride which they think are relative or may have a bearing. They may have recognised areas where they did not perform as well as they might have wished, or there may be areas of the ride they wish to qualify as sometimes our position can give us a different perspective, particularly when we are riding 100 yards or more behind. At the completion of the debrief, we will tell the candidate if they have passed and what grade has been awarded and discuss any last points they may have. Once the practical element of the test is complete, the test report is written up and forwarded to head office to be typed and sent out to the candidate together with their certificate. Examiners get paid just enough to cover their travelling expenses, so as you can probably gather, we don’t do it for the money. For me it is about meeting fellow riders, being able to pass on the benefits of my experience, putting something back into motorcycling and hopefully enhancing the individual’s own enjoyment of riding a motorcycle.

Continuing on from the advanced riding thread, I was going through some old files this morning and came across an article I wrote a couple of years ago relating to the RoSPA test and what is expected during the test. The IAM requirements are not that different except of course they are a straight pass or fail rather than a graded system and they have no requirement for a re-test, but maybe if you are or have been thinking about going down this route, it may give you a bit of a heads up. The RoSPA advanced riding test is regarded as the most comprehensive and challenging available to the public. A RoSPA Gold is the highest civilian riding standard available and the holder will be a master of his or her art. If you pass the test you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you really are a good rider. The following notes give points which examiners will look for during a test, but they do not replace the need for full knowledge of Motorcycle Roadcraft and The Highway Code. The general appearance of a motorcycle says a lot about the rider. The examiner will expect to see that your motorcycle is legal and in a roadworthy condition. It is easy to see a motorcycle‘s transmission and hydraulic fluids. You should ensure that levels and linkages are correctly or properly adjusted. The clothing, both in terms of its physical protection and high visibility/conspicuity, you wear as a rider is all important to your own safety. The examiner will expect you to wear appropriate clothing and footwear. He will wish to see that your helmet meets British Standards and is in good condition, securely fastened, with a clean, unscratched visor. Any bags or containers must be securely fastened to the machine. It is unlikely that anyone will gain a high grade without a good knowledge of Motorcycle Roadcraft, the police rider‘s handbook, which is available to the public at most bookshops. Local groups have experienced and trained tutors who will, free of charge, assess your performance. provide advice and support as you prepare for the test. You may not be fully practised in the application of the police system of riding as the advanced police rider. They have spent many weeks of full time training in order to achieve this standard. We appreciate that most members of the public will not have the riding time to reach this level of excellence. However, the examiner will be looking for a satisfactory display of safe, systematic and smooth riding. He will explain, in the test debrief, any points which are causing difficulty, giving advice and sometimes practical ways of overcoming them. All Association examiners will have had considerable experience of many types of vehicles at police advanced level and many are also police instructors. You will be expected to use all controls smoothly and with finesse. Steering: This should be smooth and controlled. He will watch to ensure that you can manoeuvre at low speeds and at higher speeds in line with safety and speed limits. Clutch: Your use of the clutch should show smoothness, delicacy and timing with the gear change lever. Gears: The way you use the gearbox will tell the examiner a lot about your ability. He will consider the way you make the change, your ability to match engine revolutions to road speed and how you use the gearbox when slowing to a stop. Brakes: How you use the brakes will play a big part in the examiner‘s final assessment. He will look for smoothness, early braking at the right place in the system, a careful balance of front and rear brakes to avoid pitching and skidding, and progressive change of brake pressure to bring the motorcycle to a smooth stop. Throttle: The throttle mechanism is spring loaded to its closed position. You must accustom yourself to this if you are to achieve smoothness. The examiner will want to see you displaying acceleration sense and, most important on a motorcycle, varying the power transmitted according to changes in road surface conditions. Rear observations: Rear observations play a big part in the system. It is important that the rider is aware of conditions to the rear as well as to the front to enable the early formulation of a riding plan. The timing of rear observation by using the mirror and shoulder checks will be examined. They should be made only when the act of looking away from the front is not in itself a hazard. Horn: The examiner will note audible warnings given. The horn should only be sounded when necessary, when all other safety features have been implemented. Visibility: Clean mirrors, windscreen and helmet visor are essential, particularly in wet conditions. Using demisting fluids and polishes to keep a clear view in the rain is important to a motorcyclist. Smoothness: Moving off and stopping must be smooth and safe. Good shoulder checks are essential before moving off. The rider should be able to control the machine at low speeds. The examiner will expect a careful balance of throttle and brakes. He will note the rider‘s choice of which foot to put down when stopping. The thinking rider will be able to place either both feet on the ground or balance with one foot while the other one works a control. To prevent the machine from rolling when stationary, one of the brakes should be kept applied where appropriate. System: The examiner will expect to see you demonstrate your understanding of the system, as outlined in Motorcycle Roadcraft, and the correct sequence of your riding actions. He will observe your hand and foot actions for balance and the timing of your signals. To do this the examiner may not be in the position behind you that you may expect. Do not be disconcerted. He may be checking that your rear observations are really to seek information, and not just a habitual or reflex action. Do not treat him as following traffic for the purpose of considering whether or not to give a signal. The use of the system as outlined in Motorcycle Roadcraft is the cornerstone of advanced riding and inconsistencies in its application will affect the grade awarded. To achieve a gold or silver standard you should apply the system consistently throughout the test. A bronze grade may be typified by inconsistencies in its application. Positioning: The examiner will note how you position your machine for safety, stability and view on the approach to hazards both on the open road and in urban areas. He will note your use of lanes. You should be able to position the machine in order to obtain the best view that is available all the time. You should also understand that at times a position for view or speed will have to be sacrificed for the sake of safety. When you are riding round bends and corners, and not overtaking, you should not cross marked centre lines and should not cut corners when entering marked junctions. RoADA believes that to do so is potentially dangerous because such actions may be the result of entering the hazard too fast and may confuse oncoming and following drivers. The Highway Code supports this view. If anything untoward happened during such a manoeuvre the driver might be seen to be at fault and might then blame RoADA for teaching or condoning this action. If there are no centre markings then some movement over the centre of the road may be acceptable It is again emphasised that the mark of an advanced rider is always to be able to place the machine precisely where it belongs under all conditions and that it should be in the right place, travelling at the right speed and with the correct gear engaged. Cornering: The examiner will watch how you ride around corners and bends both in urban and rural areas. He will look at the line you take to ensure it gives the optimum view and safety margins. You will need to demonstrate that the principles and safety features of cornering are correctly applied. Signals: You should always remember that signals are the language of the road. You will need to consider the use of signals to warn other road users of your presence and intentions. They should therefore be given clearly and in good time. Arm signals should be given when appropriate to reinforce any mechanical signal. All these points will be noted by the examiner, who will also be observing your reaction to traffic signs. Speed: Advanced riders must be capable of controlling their machine at speeds up to the legal limit where it is safe to do so. While the use of speed must at all times be safe and legal, the examiner will want to see a brisk ride with good progress being made where possible. A driving plan that relies on exceeding the speed limit to complete a manoeuvre is unacceptable. If you consistently exceed the speed limit the examiner will stop the test and you will fail. Overtaking: While overtaking manoeuvres are inherently dangerous, they are a necessary element of the concept of good progress. However, they must be conducted safely and within the speed limit. Deportment: Rider and machine must blend harmoniously at all times. The controls should be adjusted so as almost to become extensions of the rider‘s limbs. Posture should be natural and comfortable. Lying flat on the tank or hanging off the seat when cornering should be treated as unnecessary for the road rider. Quiet efficiency is the hallmark of the good rider. Your consideration for other road users and your self discipline will reveal itself as will your temperament which, when riding, should be calm and relaxed but decisive. Vehicle sympathy: We expect Association members to respect their vehicles and develop motorcycle sympathy to the benefit of the current and future rider. Observations: One of the principal differences between the novice and the advanced rider is the huge amount which the latter sees and applies to the riding plan. You will be expected actively to seek information about changes in the short, medium and distant views. It is not enough merely to acknowledge a change because the examiner will wish to see evidence of observational links and how you cope with what you have seen. Judging distance: Your ability to judge distance and relate it to the speed of your own and other vehicles will be noted together with the way you link this ability with your braking and acceleration. Motorways and Dual carriageways: Joining the motorway can be from either lane of the slip road and will depend on traffic conditions. The use of the different elevation of the slip road and the motorway may give a better view of the motorway. Acceleration sense should be used to achieve an appropriate merge speed. Speed and following distances should be appropriate for the conditions. When leaving the motorway the candidate should be in lane 1 before the 300 yards marker and, if necessary, signalling that intention. Knowledge: At the conclusion of the test you will be asked several questions on The Highway Code, Motorcycle Roadcraft and basic motorcycle mechanics. You must be familiar with these two publications. There are a few things about how motorcycles work that every rider must know. Your motorcycle handbook should provide sufficient data for this part of the test. Be assured, no-one will be trying to catch you out. Know your subject well and you will not go far wrong. It is worth mentioning that through membership of RoSPA local groups you are likely to have many questions answered by the members who have already taken a test. It is unusual for a rider without some form of advanced rider training to obtain a high grade. Local group tutors group can help and their advice and support is free. The examiners handbook is quite comprehensive and will cover additional areas of the ride as well and once marked, the candidate will receive his/her written report a few weeks later. I hope this gives you some idea what we as examiners are looking for.

Being an examiner for RoSPA, I am probably a little bit biased but at the end of the day, and further training is better than none at all, but as with anything, the training is only as good as the instructor you get and it is fair to say that there are some very good IAM and RoSPA instructors and some very poor ones. RoSPA is the senior of the two recognised advanced training bodies in the UK, the other of course being the IAM. RoSPA started off as the League of Safe drivers and was founded by Louise Duncan in association with the Met Driving School at Hendon, and predates the IAM by about 3 years, but the IAM went down the more commercial route which is why probably they are the better known of the two bodies. About 7 - 8 years ago, an agreement was made between RoSPA, the IAM, DIAmond advanced and the DSA whereby a new definition of advanced riding and driving was introduced. It is now Advanced driving is the ability to control the position and speed of the vehicle safely, systematically and smoothly, using road and traffic conditions to make reasonable progress unobtrusively, with skill and responsibility. The skill requires a positive but courteous attitude and a high standard of driving competence based on concentration, effective all round observation, anticipation and flanning. This must be co-ordinated with good handling skills. The vehicle should always be at the right place on the road at the right time, travelling at the right speed with the correct gear engaged and can always be stopped safely in the distance that can be seen to be clear. It was at the time that this definition was introduced that it was also agreed that the IAM and DIAmond pass would be the equal of the RoSPA bronze grade, whilst the RoSPA gold grade was regarded as being the equal of a Police class 2 qualification. The silver grade is still a good standard but means that there is still some work to be done and is still higher than the IAM pass standard.. That is not to say that IAM riders are rubbish, there are some very good riders out there with nothing more than an IAM pass, but this is where the conflict tends to be found. Both organisations try to sing from the same hymn sheet, but with the IAM you can have a rider who has really worked hard to attain the highest possible standard and at the other end of the scale the guy who has done just enough to scrape through, but because they both have a pass, they are regarded as being in the same skill category even though they could be poles apart. Then! As long as they pay their subscriptions every year, then can continue to call themselves an advanced rider even though they may not have taken any further training since they took their test which may have been many years ago. RoSPA on the other hand has a three yearly retest requirement for its silver and gold grade riders and annualy for bronze grade riders, and to maintain their membership they must submit to the retest where they can increase or decrease their grade. This at least ensures that standards are maintained. And then following on from that there is the RoSPA diploma (which I was responsible for writing, setting up and running for many years ) which is aimed at instructors who wish to be enterd onto the register of approved instructors, and ensures that not only are riding standards maintained, but instructional ability is in place as well. The problem with many IAM individuals is that in a lot of cases they believe that the IAM test is the holy grail of the advanced riding and testing procedure, as I found out on more than one occasion. I recently had a student who is an IAM qualified rider. He was looking to take his RoSPA test and asked me to do a check run just to make sure he was up to scratch as he was sure it would be a formality. He went onto say that having passed the IAM test, surely there was nothing more to learn? and I have to say he was quite arrogant about it which made me wonder why he was looking to take his RoSPA advanced test. Within 10 minutes I had to stop him and put him straight on a few things which he found difficult to understand, after all he had passed his IAM test hadn't he? I would have failed him had he been taking his RoSPA test that is how bad he was, but in fairness, once I had explained a few things to him, he was actually very receptive and positive and realised the error of his ways and realised that the learning curve is constant and ongoing.. Unfortunately, much of what he had been taught was down to poor training, and the person who had trained him had passed his test some 20 + years ago and never taken a retest, so it really answered many of the questions that arose, and went to prove that as instructors and examiners we have to constantly check ourselves to maintain standards both of riding ability and knowledge. By the end of the day I was comfortable that the guy should attain a silver, but he has an awfull long way to go before he will get to gold standard, but I hope that he continues and I wish him well in the future. The whole point of my ramblings is that the learning never stops, and the day that someone thinks they have learnt all there is to learn, that is the day when the keys should be hung up forever because there is an accident looking for somewhere to happen. The bottom line is that if you want quality over quantity, then go for the RoSPA test, if you want to get a foot on the first rung of the ladder and you want more of a social side, then the IAM is a good starting point. Both have their virtues. Despite my 30 + years riding experience. despite all the riding qualifications I have, despite all the money that has been spent on me to attain those qualifications, I learn something new on a very regular basis, and new ideas can be learnt from even the most novice of riders if you are prepared to accept that as advanced riders we are not the sole guardians of everything two wheeled. Whilst advanced riding is not about learning to ride per se, what it will teach you is how to use some of the skills that are there that you didn't realise you had, enhancing skills that you have maybe started to develop, teaching you techniques that would be totally alien to a DSA examiner or DAS only instructor, undoing some of the rubbish that riders have to be taught to pass their L test and generally introducing them to a different way of riding which maintains a decent bubble of safety without detracting from the fun element. Anyone who states that they have learnt nothing from doing an advanced course is IMO either a liar or someone who should not be on the road. We can all learn (and I mean all of us) and we should all attempt to ride to the highest standard that we can. I have always said that learning to ride to an advanced standard will not prevent you being involved in an accident, but what it will do in the majority of cases is prevent you being involved in an accident that is YOUR FAULT. That could mean all the difference to your family in the long term. The bottom line is that any training in whatever walk of life is only as good as the instructor provides, and in that respect you will get good and bad everywhere. With an advanced instructor though, it could literally be the difference between life and death. And before anyone goes on about Bikesafe, I will say that there issues as far as this is concerned, but again this is a topic for another day. Sorry for the rambling

There is no regulation that states that it is illegal to ride with the chin bar up, it is simply one of those urban myths that has circulated for years. Whilst many of the flip fronts are tested with the chin bar in the locked position, they are actuallly designed as an open faced helmet and the flip front is an add on, and in fact this was the only way Shoei could get theirs through BSI before the introduction of the EC22/05 regs. A flip front with the chin bar raised is no better or worse than wearing a conventional open faced helemet, a, and nothing has been addednd all the regulations state is that the rider must wear a securely fastened crash helmet at all times when riding the bike. Bear in mind that the regulations were written in 1972 before the introduction of flip fronts, and nothing has changed much since the specification of the 1985 BSI standard was written or subsequently under EC22/05

Each year as the days grow shorter and winter draws in the number of bikes on our roads plummets as many of us swap two wheels for the warmth, comfort and convenience of four. However, some people have no option but to ride all year round. Not many years ago winter kit was of dubious quality but these days it can actually be an enjoyable experience, providing you take a few simple precautions. Cold is probably the biggest enemy of the winter biker. Once you are cold it will affect your concentration and a lack of concentration is something no biker can afford to have. Modern man made materials will afford you warmth and protection which can be supplemented by the use of thermal underwear, thermal socks and inner gloves, or you could splash out on a heated waistcoat and trousers. A balaclava will keep your head and neck warm, or you can simply wear a roll neck shirt or proper neck warmer if you don’t like the idea of wearing something under your helmet. Heated handlebar grips for many, are a must have accessory, but many choose heated inner gloves instead. Whatever your choice you need to try and prevent your hands from becoming cold to the point where your control of the bike is affected and the risk of an accident is increased. If you cannot afford the little extras, then it is worth remembering that if you put a warm head into a warm helmet and, in particular, warm hands into warm gloves, the heat will be retained for much longer than if everything is cold. If you only wear leathers then consider wearing a cheap anorak or paddock jacket over the top of your leather jacket rather than a number of layers underneath. Too much additional underclothing will stretch your leather to the point where it will become baggy and less protective, allowing cold air to pass through it so that you won’t actually feel any warmer. If you wear an “over-jacket” a pocket of warm air will be formed between your leather and the outer garment so you will stay warmer for longer. In addition, if you take a tumble you are more likely to damage a cheap jacket rather than your expensive leathers. Out on the road there are a number of things that you will need to think about more than you would during the warmer summer months. For example, on a bright sunny winter’s day, the road may give the impression of being dry and problem free but in the shaded areas there may still be damp patches and, one of the biker’s biggest enemies, “Ice”. Leaves that have become damp and rotten can often be found spread across the carriageway. Damp leaves do not afford particularly good grip. Many riders complain about the brightness of the sun during the summer months but I often find it is a bigger problem during the winter when the sun sits much lower in the sky and can blind very easily. Ride accordingly, but remember that other road users will be suffering from a similar problem, so take particular care that they have seen you. Paint, such as that used in road markings, can be slippery at any time, but during the winter months the combination of paint, water, ice and cold weather can be a lethal cocktail. Therefore make sure that you cross over these lines while the bike is upright or, through corners consider modifying your line slightly. Manhole covers can be particularly slippery when wet. When they are cold as well they can be a particular hazard. Whilst considering the road surface it is worth checking the overall condition of the carriageway for cracks and debris caused by frost damage. Finally you must keep your bike clean and well maintained to avoid nasty surprises such as seized brakes or rust building up on important components. The salt used by our Highways Authorities to keep the roads clear of snow and ice tends to be particularly corrosive, and once it gets into the braking system you are looking at a major stripdown. Before your first journey of the day make sure everything is working as it should and then give the bike a hose down or wash when you get home, this will keep corrosive damage to a minimum and ensure that the bike is in tip top condition. Winter riding can be fun, you just need confidence, awareness and the right equipment to make sure that you won’t get cold or wet

Sorry to contradict you, but that is not true. The simple act of dropping the helmet is enough to compress the inner liner, it does not need a head inside to do the damage. Some of the tests done at various factories show that the inner liner can be compressed by up to 30 - 35% over a wide area, which may not sound a lot, but is substantial when you need it to absorb impact in a real crash.

The only way they can properly test it is to strip it down to its component parts and then rebuild. This wouuld take it outside its EC22/05 accreditation as only the factory is qualified to do the rebuild. X-Rays just show a black blob and don't determine whether the liner has been flatspotted. Absolutely right, and in fact some manufacturers recommmend change from even lower heights for the reason I mentioned above, it is not about the shell but the liner. If you have all risk house contents insurance, you may be able to claim as it is covered under goods temporarily away from the home.

If you have passed the test for the car, then you have a full licence and therefore tick the appropriate box. It helps the beurocrats determine how many people with a full car licence are taking bike training compared to those who only have a provisional licence. It also helps the CBT school determine whether someone is likely to have a bit of road experience or whether they are staring from absolute scratch. If you have passed a driving test of any description, then tick "Full" if this is your first licence and you are just starting out, then tick provisional.