TC1474

You can buy Kevlar sheets, I have just got to put my thinking cap on and remember where I obtained it from. If I can't remember, I will go into the attic and look on the packaging As an alternative go to http://www2.dupont.com/Kevlar/en_US/index.html Kevlar was invented by DuPont and they have a sales and distribution base here in the UK, they will certainly be able to help you.

Your insurance company may have agreed to keep you on cover, and you may have got away with it, but sorry, riding in mainland Europe on a provisional and CBT is still illegal. Your insurers gave you incorrect information, and had you had a crash, I bet they would have tried to wriggle out of covering you big time.

It is not so much about the length more about getting the knees right. The length does vary from make to make, but you can compensate quite often depending on the type of boots you wear. Leather will give by up to an inch sometime more depending on the type of hide used. Cowhide will give by betweeen 1 - 1 1/2 inches, Goatskin and Kangaroo by up to 3 inches, Buffalo won't give more than about a micron as it is so tough

As said previously, 100% no I am afraid. You must hold a full UK licence for the category of vehicle you wish to drive or ride.

Being on my third Blackbird, you can probably guess that I am somewhat biased, but personally, I have yet to find a bike that ticks all the boxes the way the BB does. So far, I have covered around 300,000 miles with my three bikes, all purchased from new, and the first 2 were sold with mileage in excess of 150,000 miles on the clock. Engine wise, they have all been bullet proof, and in fact actually get better as the engine loosens up. On a run I get around 220 miles between fill ups, and when I go overseas I tend to use the performance a bit but the consumption remains pretty constant. The only thing I tend to do is replace the rear shock with an Ohlins unit. The Showa standard rear unit is OK when new, but it can/does fade with time and it can cause the bike to bottom out a bit when on a spirited ride, nothing dangerous, just a bit spongy. The Ohlins is multi adjustable and really firms up the back end. The fairing works very well and the dashboard layout is simple to see and read at all speeds, the seat is comfortable, and the tank takes a Baglux perfectly (which means the tank is also protected) and I use a Baglux tail pack which is neat and carries a lot of luggage on the rear. Mirrors are probably the best this side of a Pan or Beemer, and the engine is silky smooth across the rev range. I use my bike for touring, commuting from time to time and training, and it suits all of these roles ideally. It is not really any wider than any other bike of this size or class, so once you are confident it is a breeze to filter. It will sit in top gear at 30 quite happily, or you can click down a couple of cogs, and all I will say is hang on tight as it will/can rip your arms out of their sockets. Even top gear roll on in top is brisk and will shame some sportier bikes. The gearbox can be a bit notchy, but this is usually caused by dealers using a semi synthetic oil from new. A bike which has been run on mineral oil for the first 3 or 4 thousand miles will have a much slicker box when it changes over to the semi synthetic. A clunky box is not a problem, but they can be avoided. Many people find the bike awkward in respect of the reach to the bars. I am 6 feet 5, so this has never been a problem for me, but some bar risers can solve this problem if it is an issue and is a very simple fix. It is the one bike where I can ride from the UK to southern Germany (when my physical condition allows ), arrive, have my tea and then go out for another ride I can't even do that on a Pan or Beemer. For a large sports tourer, in the right hands it can be hustled through the twisties very effectively, and it is very rare for a super sports to lose me or leave me behind, even on the tighter twisties. Needs a bit more effort than a lightweight supersports, but far more satisfying Servicing is straightforward once the fairing panels are off, and if you have a modicum of mechanical ability, it is a very simple DIY job. I have friends who have Ducatis, both ST2's and 4's and they have had nothing but grief, although they love the V twin characteristics. Early Carb models (96/97) had a flat spot around 4000 RPM which could be corrected with a Dyno Jet kit, but by 98/99 this had been sorted and the power curve was linear. I have had both carbed and injected (current bike), and there is very little difference in performance or economy, but again the earlier injected bikes tended to run somewhat rich and you could end up with very sooty tail pipes. Tyre wise, they wear pretty well. Bridgestone 020's or Avon Azzuro's work very well, and I get arouund 7000 out of the front and between 4 and 6000 out of the rear depending on what I am doing. As for the CBS (combined braking) it feels no different to a normal braked bike, the only tell tell sign is thatrear pads do tend to wear quicker than conventional brake system for obvious reasons. Would I have another? Well I am on my third, I would certainly have a fourth, but then I did warn you that I am biased

I have got the Whoppa bag from Baglux, and it is absolutely brilliant http://www.baglux.co.uk/whoppa.php It is connected to the back of the bike by two zips which are attached to the bike but are concealed when not in use. No bungees required, is dead neat, rock solid at all speeds, waterproof and carries as much as a set of panniers. I have had mine for about 5 years, and if I change bikes I just change the zip fastenings which takes minutes to fit once the rear seat is off, but you would not know they fittings are there unless you look carefully. No risk of scratched paintwork, no bungees to fasten to the bike and no risk of bungees snapping which I have seen on many occasions on my jaunts.

Bikesafe is or can be worthwhile, but don't go into it thinking that it is a course as many do (how many times have I heard someone say they are Police trained after doing 1 days Bikesafe ) but it is simply a good introduction to the principles and provides a flavour of what is involved in attaining an advanced standard. You will not get training, simply some pointers on areas that can be improved after which you should be pointed in the direction of a local group. Roadcraft (The Police riders manual) is designed to work in conjunction with practical hands on training and can be misinterpreted, so a full course is the only way you are going to really gain all the benefits. But I go back to my original comment, wait until you have you full licence before embarking on any advanced training. Don't scrimp on your kit, that should be on the list of priorities. It doesn't matter how good you are or how well you have been trained, you cannot eleminate the risk of an accident. Please get your kit before you get any training, your bike can be repaired or replaced, you can't!

RoSPA (which is the older of the two) usually works out at about £25 for a years group membership which includes your theory sessions, practical on road coaching and books, and most group instructors are on the register of post test trainers and hold the diploma in advanced instruction. There is no requirement to take the test at the end of the training (not everyone is a badge collector ) and many stay on once they have done their training, but if you do take the test, then unlike the IAM it is graded bronze, silver and gold, with a rerquirement to re-test every 3 years maximum to ensure that standards are maintained, whereas the majority of IAM riders take a one off test and still call themselves advanced drivers and riders 40 years down the line RoSPA like the IAM use Police class 1 riders as examiners, but the test is somewhat more detailed and involved than the IAM test, but both are worthwhile doing. Someone once said that advanced training is the best aftermarket accessory that money can buy, and I feel that there is some truth in that, but as with any training it is only as good as the instruction you received. I am not trying to be biased as I am both a RoSPA and IAM examiner, but to be honest, wait until you have your full licence, get 6 months under your belt then look at your options. 6 months is a good time as you will have that experience, you will be more confident and familiar with your bike, but you will still be inexperienced enough to be able to take constructive advice. As a by the by, the 2 hour post test course and the 1 day rider improvement will not turn you into an advanced rider, all they can do is give you a few pointers into what can/may be achieved with proper training, but as I say, wait until you have your full licence simply because you need to ride in a different style to get through your test, and 95% of what you learn to get through your test goes out of the window once you get up to advanced level.

If you have a tinted visor, then buy clear tear offs

They are for "tear offs" sheets of plastic film which are attached to the pegs and stop flies sticking to your visor. Good things to have in the summmer. http://www.motorcycleworldl-spa.co.uk/i ... ductId=320 The attached is simply for explanation purposes

I found the link for Prexport http://www.thekeycollection.co.uk/prexp ... index.html My wife has the Lady City boot and they fit perfectly, but I appreciate that everyone is different.

If you can find them, try Prexport (imported by Fowlers of Bristol) My wife had the same issues, and they fitted her perfectly and she could wear them all day in total comfort. They were always a good quality budget boot, but I haven't seen them for a year or two, so you may need to shop around, but I am pretty certain they would meet your requirements, and they are a full length boot rather than a paddock boot.

Again, you will get varying thoughts on this. Shueberth are one of the noisiest helmets I have ever tried, mainly because I cannot get one that fits me right, and most people who complain of their helmets being noisy, if you checked would probablyhave the wrong fitting or poorly sized helmet. On the other side of the coin, AGV (for me anyway) are the quietest because they fit me perfectly, it is all a matter of perception. It really is a matter of trying different brands on, and having someone with you (maybe the salesperson or a friend who knows what they are talking about) until you find the hat that fits you the best but within your budget, but don't allow yourself to be brainwashed into spending more than you can afford. Some people will use the old cliche "If you have a £30 head then buy a £30 helmet", don't believe it, there are some very good hats out there at the lower end of the financial spectrum.

Not in every case. One particular brand has all their leathers designed and manufactured in the far east, and then the factory markets them in other countries under different brand names. Brand names chop their countries of production on a regular basis and where labour is cheapest. For years it has been Sialkot, but Singapore, Malaysia, China have all been popular manufacturing countries, even the USA was quite popular at one time. The Sharp test is just a job for the boys. EC22/05 (which replaces BS6658-85) sets out minumum standards, the biggest difference is that once approved it becomes self accreditation regardless of whether it is one of the big Jap factories or the smaller European firms. But, the important point is that all the helmets sold on the UK market far exceed the minimum standard. The only good point about the Sharp test is that it to a certain degree does show that you don't need to spend vast amounts to get good protection, but of course when it comes to bash hats, there are a lot of brand name snobs out there.

Most of the big brand names actually come out of the same factory in the far east, usually Sialkot. When I was there a couple of years ago, I purchased a very well known brand of leathers for £50 instead of the usual £700 I would have expected to pay here. And they were exactly the same as I did a direct comparison with some leathers I have in my garage I use for research. Don't let the name fool you, look at the quality Helmet wise, a £30 hat will afford you exactly the same protection as a £300 hat, it simply will not have the fancy features of the more expensive helmet, but regardless of how much you spend, fit is all important. A £30 helmet that fits you right will give you far more protection than a £300 hat that fits you badly.

As a rule of thumb, whatever you are in inches, add 10 for metric measurements. So for example if you are a 32 inch chest, then a European 42 would be your starting point, a 46 inch chest like me puts me into a 56 or 58 European depending on the manufacture. If you are long in the arm and leg, then a 32 long fit is (if memory serves) a 92 a 46 is a 110 European. For gloves, again a rule of thumb is (as daft as it sounds) start with your foot size. So if you are a size 10 foot, then try a size 10 glove, size 6 feet then a 6 glove and so on. Doesn't work for everyone, but it does give you a starting point.

I don't know if it is still the case, but Tecnics used to be a wholly owned subsidiary of AGV and the quality used to be top notch at a lower end price. But this was a few years ago

What your actually saying is that people become lazy behind the wheel or in the saddle,. Totally agree, which if you read through again is what I have intimated at.

Which in many cases is exactly what happens. Assumptions are made based on their previous experience causing them to "switch off" rather than maintaining the level of concentration and carrying out continual risk assessments regardless of how many times that section of road has been covered. It is human nature, something we are all guilty of regardless of how much training we have done, which is why so many crashes happen within a few miles of home.

The correct speed is 30 MPH. When you first dealt with the bend, you assessed that speed as being correct based on what you could see. When you made subsequent trips through the bend, the rider now starts to use local knowledge and familiarity. You know the road conditions, the likelihood of vehicles pulling out of junctions, possible oncoming traffic that could affect your safety, and so this knowledge tempts or allows the rider to increase the speed because they become more dependant on having that knowledge rather than treating it as if they were riding through for the first time when you had no knowledge what so ever other than what you could see. In other words, first time you made a risk assessment, subsequent occasions the risk assessment played less significance in the decision making process. Now, I know I used a bend as an example, but now put it into an everyday context. For 364 days of the year you probably drive or ride along the same section of road on your way to work, and for the majority of the time everything remains a constant. Local schoolkids, the same people pullling off the petrol station forecourt, the same delivery vehicles doinng their rounds, so you get lulled into a false sense of security because your local knowledge tells you that nothing will change, or not by much. Then day 365 arrives, you get a mile down the road go around the first bend and there is the road being dug up which you were not expecting because it wasn't there yesterday. You have allowed your local knowledge to take over and dismissed doing any risk assessment. What should be happening is that roads you drive or ride daily should be assessed in exactly the same way as you did when you rode that bend for the first time. Now the reality is you probably won't go back and ride the bend multiple times at higher speeds (unless you are on some of the wonderfull continental roads ) and in reality you will go through bends quicker than 30 where conditions allow, but I used it as the example to emphasise how a judgement or assessment is made, the principles remain the same. Hence the reason the answer to the question is 30 MPH Now I have lit the blue touch paper

There is no correct speed. or 60 or The correct speed is ANY speed that allows you to negotiate the bend safely No, No and guess what? No again

Wrong to both answers

I was in a meeting today when I was asked a question on cornering. The guy I was speaking to didn't like the answer, but as a result of this conversation I thought some of you might like a little teaser of a question which might just get the old grey matter working You are out on the bike riding along a lovely section of road for the very first time. You are riding in a national speed limit (60). You approach a bend which you have never ridden before. The road surface is good, the weather is fine and clear and traffic flow is light. You decide to take the bend at 30 MPH. You come out the other side safely and realise that you could have gone quicker, so being a lovely section of road, you turn around and go back and ride it again. This time you ride the same bend at 40. It is still safe and legal and it still feels comfortable, so you do it again at 50 and again at 60. On each and every occasion you have ridden the bend it has been comfortable, safe and legal, but what is the correct speed for the bend? 30? 40? 50? or 60? Not a trick question I assure you, answers on a postcard.

Little tip regarding your jacket. When you try it on don't wear anything other than a T shirt. If you try it on with a jumper it may fit nice and snug in the winter months, but come the summmer it will be like a balloon and could cause greater injury if you were to come off. In the winter, wear something like a windcheater (nothing with a hood) or an anorack over the top of your leather as this will create a pocket of warm air between you and the elements so it will actually keep you warmer, and if you do take a tumble you damage a cheap over jacket rather than your leather. Then come the summer, you still have a jacket that fits properly

Just remember I P S G A and you will be halfway there (Information, Position, Speed, Gear, Acceleration, the system of motorcycle control)