Topbanana0

So I stripped the carbs, found them to be dirty inside.

And two of the pilot jets were blocked.

Completely stripped it, cleaned everything.

I think the main problem with the bike being laid up, was the fuel tap was/is fault. It wouldn't turn off, the last owner thought he turned it off but fuel was always going to carbs.

Anyway bike now runs fine probably going to balance carb in the future.

YouTube video might follow soon

Sorry about the emoji in last post, I appear to be giving you the finger. Thought it was a thumbs up

check the carb to engine rubbers especially the balancing spigot rubber bung covers ( little brass pipes that stick out of these and have a rubber bung on them

Screenshot_20190807-191633_Samsung Internet.jpg

these can perish and allow air to weaken the mix hence running on choke

Thanks for the diagram, I'll be getting on it at the weekend

Ok, so I have a 1989 ZX10 b2.

Bike starts ok on the choke, then struggles to tick over unless lots of choke is used.

It revs high then when you reduce choke, struggles to run and sounds lumpy.

The carbs were sonic cleaned and balanced in 2017, by the previous owner. But unfortunately the bike hasn't been used since.

I'm suspecting it's a fuel (carb) issue, where would you start.

So I have replaced the hose with a new one. My new problem is the bike is fitted with combination brake system and ther is 3 nipples for the rear brake. 1 on the rear caliper 1 on a junction type box then 1 on the front brake. I haven't even attempt to bleed them yet I am sure ther must be a order to do them. time for some research

Do a bit of research, but you would normally bleed the nipple that's farthest away from the brake reservoir, first and work back to reservoir.

As for bleeding abs brakes, you can just do it as normal. Only need special equipment if you get air in abs system.

There's an ally washer there for a reason. If you put copper there, make sure you wash any salt off in winter or you'll lose your oil.

Tell us why

 

Because copper has terrible anti corrosion properties in salt water.

That's interesting, that's why I asked the original question.....always happy to learn something

There's an ally washer there for a reason. If you put copper there, make sure you wash any salt off in winter or you'll lose your oil.

Tell us why

And some say this place is bad.......

I love a bit of banter, and I can swear as good as the next man (not sure if that's pc... The next person)

But excessive bad language is poor form, you have no idea who's reading it.

Probably a load of keyboard warrior's, no doubt 40 year old men still living with there mum and sporting a neck beard

It's been just over a week since I joined Tmbf, and after a shaky start (and a ticking off from Mr Fro )

You can see from my posts,I'm a genuine contributor to the forum. Also I'm a member of various other bike forums.

But below I've posted a link to another forum I attempted to join, if your offended by bad language don't view.

I found there aggressive response quite sad, but also incredibly amusing

Btw, they deleted my post and blocked or deleted any response, where I attempted to have a sensible conversation, very odd.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=327452

The chap calling himself 'MCN' does appear to have a bee in his bonnet, here's another post where he's having a go at someone else. Accusing him of being a 'spammer'. Unless I've missed something, he's just posted a question about oil

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=327480

doing a coolant change on my speed triple, I've got a load of copper washers, and want to replace the coolant drain plug washer with one if these.

It looks like the original washer is alloy, would this matter? Chemical reaction to the metal of the engine block maybe?

I see a lot of videos where they say to warm up the bike before draining the oil. I don't get it. It makes the oil drain out quicker? yes, but not much. lets the dirt fall down quicker? if its a cold bike, its already at the bottom. If I start the bike it all goes to the top again. so.......

If you fear you have dirt in your oil, the 5 minutes it's mixing around when warming up isn't going to make any difference, it's the miles and miles when your riding that's going to be the problem. Also that's what an oil filters for

Quick heads up for you

Go to World of Triumph https://www.worldoftriumph.com/

Some things I found

Gel seat 2016 speed triple £54 ( normally about £150)

Auxiliary power socket 2016 speed triple £9 ( normally £28)

Tank bag 2011-2015 speed triple (will fix nex gen) £36 (normally £160)

Have a look might be something for you.

Sorry for diving straight in, should have asked if its ok first

Nice of you not to boot me off.

Just nice to be with like minded people

Hi, thought I would share a link to my YouTube channel. Most videos are service videos on my speed triple (2016)

Also other videos of friends bikes, 2014 speedy, Kawasaki Gtr 1400 and z800.

Hopefully they might help some members, please remember I'm not a bike mechanic, so cut me some slack

https://www.youtube.com/user/topbanana0