skikman

you should be able to prise the old seal out of the case from the outside of it using a small screwdriver into the seal and gently lever out place screwdriver into seal using the hole in the middle of the seal then pull outwards,to replace the seal i would make sure the seal hole in the casing is oil free and dry and apply tiny coat of sealant round outer edge of new seal,it should tap in very easily and they only cost a couple of quid to buy new as well so not to drastic a problem

when you say sealant do you mean instant gasket?

hi all.i took off both side casings on my cg125 to clean up and respray.i was poking around at the oil seal where kickstart goes and a spring like ring came off it.so i guess i have to replace it.before i make a balls up is there a certain way i have to take off and put on these seals?

Hi, apologies if I am mistaken but the choke on my CG (ES4 therefore a little later) is IMO counter intuitive (fully down is off; Fully up is choked; Midway will retain ignition), in my ignorance I suffered from the same 'fault', may I suggest that the first thing you try is 'choke lever up' (to combat lean running whatever the state of the engine) and immediately down (if the the engine stalls at this stage then simply delay the downward slope of the lever), leave to warm up whilst you don your togs and away you go. Best of luck john WTF this fool is replying to an ancient thread, more aplogies but it is late and I am simple.

thanks old.thats it.now i feel real stupid.i was thinking full down was choke on

hi all.i bought a stolen recovered 99 honda cg125.i put an ignition on it and it starts.thing is it will only idle at half choke.take choke off and it will die.even if i turn idle screw way up[reving high]it will still die with choke off.sounds like blocked pilot jet or air leak right?ive had carb off 4-5 times cleaned,replaced o rings,replaced pilot jet with another i had,sprayed around boots with carb cleaner to check for leaks[nothing]air filter is in good nick and well sealed.ive tried turning air/fuel mixture screw but it makes no difference as it wont idle without choke.it is set now at 2 turns out.im starting to think this bike was'nt stolen at all.anyone got any other suggestions?o im going to swap needle with an old one i have but im not confident as the needle on it looks ok.

if its a 4 stroke the valve clearance close's up on these wee chinese bikes often.check your clearance

my 95 gpx250 will start and idle no problem when cold but take it for a 5-10 mins run i have to work at the throttle to keep it running at traffic lights ect.then when i stop it,its hard to start it again.turns over for a good while until it starts.whats the first thing i should look at?valve clearance?carb?any ideas?

ended up being corrosion at the switch.bit off a clean and wd40 and it works ok now.as always i had been through everything else and had everything apart before i got to the switch.why is it always the last thing you look at?anyway im just glad its sorted.thanks again folks.

putting a wee suzuki gs 125 together and cant get the lights to work properly.all lights work its only when i put the headlight on it cuts out the tail and side/dash lights.been switching wires around but cant figure it out.any ideas?

poundland is selling a litre of anti-freeze & coolant for £1.is it ok to use??

thanks folks.i put a flat head screwdriver between the pads and disc and taped it with a hammer.got it freed enough to push.wrecked the pads but they were probably f**ked anyway.

How were you planning on getting the bike to your new place if the wheel did turn?? Get a mate to help by lifting the front wheel off the ground and get the bike in to the back of a van.

i have to push the bike a good distance to get it to the van.[too far to lift]

hi folks.im moving house and want to take an old gpx250 i have out the back with me to fix up over the winter.problem is the front wheel is jamed tight and i cant push it.ive tried to take off the caliper but rung both bolt heads,there siezed too.is there anyway i can free it up without taking the caliper off,so i can push it for now.once i get it to the new house i will strip it down.

Sounds like a problem I had with one of my XJ550s years ago. In that case the fuse holder had corroded through and was intermitently losing contact (it was used hard in all weathers). I fixed it by making a new fuse holder out of brass sheet. If you have a fuse box on the bike maybe you could check that. It certainly sounds electrical to me.

Another idea would be to use a multimeter to check the ignition wiring through the kill switch and ignition switch.

fuse holder looks fine also the wires and connections from the kill switch look fine.not sure how to check them with multimeter but the bike only cuts out for a split second so would be hard to dected.i have since flushed out tank and cleaned petcock filter,went round all connections with wd40.the one to the cdi seemed a bit loose so was hoping that was it.was away for a week.came back yesterday.took bike out today and done 40ish miles and engine cut out.brought it to a stop and tried starting it again.BANG.big backfire.tried again and it started no prob and has run well the rest of the day.this is doing my head in.any more ideas??????

is it points ign or electronic,if its points it cold be the condensor packing up or the points need replacing

its electronic.been using the bike last few days and it has only stoped once and that was after 60 mile,it started up straight away and no backfire.it only backfired the once.been thinking maybe there's a bit of crap in the tank stopping fuel getting through as it can go for 60 mile one time and 1/2 next.i'll flush out tank and see what happens

Backfire possibly due to unburned fuel in the exhaust......so it could be to do with the spark. Maybe a problem with the CDI module? Another thought is are your valve clearances OK? May be worth a check to see....

i reset the valve clearance.they wer'nt that much out.tell me anything but the cdi thoese are expensive

I think maybe start looking at the plug and plug cap. Can't remember but is it a single or a twin?

its a single and a new plug set to spec.right.carb taken off and cleaned.no sign of water.new plug,not new but filter cleaned with filter cleaner,oiled and put back on,battery charged and ht lead sprayed.took it for a run and only got about 1/2 a mile when it cut out.started straight up again first push of the button.so took it home again.starting to think its electrical because of the backfire last time.could it be it stopped sparking,fuel still going into cylinder,resparks,to much fuel,bang heance backfire right Question .anyway took off headlight,tank,seat and side panels.started bike and looked at all wires and connections.could'nt see anything wrong.shook and played around with wires but nothing happened.so maybe not electrical.what next????

hi all.the last few times i went out for a run on my yamaha sr250 it cut out after 15-20 miles.it was like i had flicked the kill switch.it starts up again ok but keeps doing it now and again.today though it started up again but after a big backfire.where do you think i should start looking?

Top of the valve stem looks a bit mushroomed to me.....

yea think its gone through the hard metal.might be a bit of a c nt to get out.cam may be shot too.i can see a few marks on it just looking in.a well its head off then

right ok folks bikes locked up in the back yard and will not be moved till io get it sorted.heres some pics

hi all.i have an old yamaha sr250 that is nocking/ticking from the inlet valve adjustment.i have been resetting it and each time the adjuster is going down and now to a point that i have to take off the locknut turn the bolt then put the nut back on.the top of the adjuster bolt is now below the top of the nut.surely thats not right.before you ask it is set at tds with timming marks matching up and on the right stroke.the bike is quiet for about 10-20 miles then the knockings back and a big gap at valve clearance.the top of the valve is now beaten pretty bad from it being run loose.cant adjust it any more.the exhaust side is ok.what you think????.ps i could take pics if needed.

hi folks.i had the head off my yamaha sr125 to check the valve seats and reset the timming.the bike is now running ok but smokin more than it should.im guessing it needs the piston rings replaced.ive just put a new head gasket on and the bike has only been run for a couple of miles.i was wondering could i get away with reusing the same head gasket?

does the mixture screw let in more air or fuel?if my bike was running to rich which way should i turn the screw?

both sue's and my son's ybrs do this until

they are warm! They take ages to warm up!

much longer than any of the bigger bikes

I've had.

its still the same after riding for some time

I had that on my bike and it was caused by incorrect spark plug. Gap was twice as big as it should be. When I changed the plug I adjusted mixture on carb and no problems since then I don't have video of it anymore but I had to try to accelerate VERY gently. If I twisted grip too fast it was choking and dying instantly. Did you check gap on this new plug?

yea its ok.i wonder,could it be faulty?

hi cant seem to get my yamaha sr125 running 100%.it idles and runs ok its just if you give it quick throttle from idle it will die[bit of a bummer taking off at lights]i have checked and cleaned all i can think of.this is,carb and jets many times[carb cleaner,air gun]air filter seated well no leaks,inlets to carb no leaks[sprayed around with carb cleaner no different]float height and fuel height ok. mixture screw to the best i can get it[one and a half turns out]peacock and fuel lines clear.valve clearance ok.new plug which looks ok[nice and brown]moved clip on needle up one,then down one notch.tried fresh fuel.this is doing my head in.can anyone help PLEASE.