Bertie

just because someone actually looks you in the eye, doesnt mean they have seen you. if anything, it normally means they are going to try to aim for you

interesting little tip!

you will notice the holes are offset. these should be towards the bottom, because generally most of the fuel enters through the bottom of the inlet

I for one actually really like what you've done to the rear end, however i've got one little question. Are integrated indicators legal, if you DON'T have a secondary set (e.g original indicators) still attached? As i'm really wanting to get rid (saw it down) the rear part of the bulky hugger and the indicators. Then rise the number plate upwards to where the light that shines down on it is (removing that too) and then fit a pair of these for plate lighting:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Streetfighter-Tai ... 53db90cde0

Thankyou. (sorry for the ever so slight hijack)

get yourself a new undertray and cut all of the original out the way. it looks far far better than any mod you can do to the original undertray

any proof that the lidl ones are actually calibrated? i wouldnt trust one with anything important

shouldnt affect the cables at all, they will just bend more and be generally more in the way

(depending on how big the bars were and what you are putting on, be careful not to bend the clutch cable too much, causing resistance on the cable)

what bike is it?

i've been using a V2 for years and its an excellent helmet. comfy, visor is excellent and seems pretty well built. it does make a bit of noise at higher speeds, but , whilst i have borrowed other helmets, the only other helmet i have owned was a caberg justisimo whilst on a moped, so i cant really compare it against others

Tight spots can sometimes be lessened by flexing the chain the wrong way, ie not the way it normally goes (up and down) but sideways, at the tight bit.

If you continue to have problems, then yes, I would replace the chain and sprockets.

They do last very well when looked after... How long you had it mate?

EDIT: Bertie, on a 530 gauge chain, a screwdriver wouldn't touch it, if it managed to move anything, it would then be dangerous to ride and the rivets are not meant for any adjustment.

Shame really but hey ho

i did wonder if it would work or not! its one thing having a chain go on a push bike but i wouldnt want my motorbike chain to snap so probably best to do it properly

on a push bike if you get a tightspot i would loosen it up by either very slightly adjusting the pin with a chain tool, or putting a large flathead screwdriver in the chain and twisting it slightly. any reason not to do either of these to a motorbike chain?

does the bike sound the same when you rev it? does it rev easier? any flat spots in the rev range? does it feel the same at low speeds or does it feel down on power across the whole range?

why would you need to do this? what difference does it make?

£100 seems like a lot for a pair of gloves doesnt it? you can get a nice pair for a fair bit less than that

 

While I certainly agree with you (my current gloves cost £70 and are by far the best gloves I've used so far, including a more expensive pair) I think choosing the right gloves, even if you have to spend that bit more is very important, bearing in mind if you have a chance to react after coming off a bike, you are very likely too put your hands out, meaning they are going to take the brunt of the impact

i'd say £70 is about the limit i would consider spending on gloves, but they would have to be bloody good for that money!

£100 seems like a lot for a pair of gloves doesnt it? you can get a nice pair for a fair bit less than that

on a CBT, you only learn a fraction of what you need to know to ride a bike safely. you will still need time to practice everything you have learnt, plus learn a whole load more

im not 100% convinced a restricted bike is the way to go (despite it being what i have done!)

if you buy a ninja 250r, you ride that happily for your restricted period, then buy whatever you like

if you buy a 600cc bike and restrict it, you will have all of your friends telling you to derestrict it constantly, and it certainly is tempting!

is £3k cheap?

surely carrying a bicycle wouldnt be overloading it? it would be far far lighter than carrying a pillion....

i once mopeded about 4 miles to work (bike shop) with my road bike wheels in the footwell. that was exciting, i couldnt touch the floor at all without dropping the wheels so had to hope i didnt have to stop for traffic lights!!

its my understanding, that as long as you make it clear you are aware of the speed limit, you dont have to go all the way up to it if you dont think it is safe to or you are unable to. when i did my mod 2 it was wet, but when a road went from 30 up to 60, i made sure i went faster than 30 (when it was safe)

all that for £200? when a van reversed over me on my bike i had a similar list of damage and the repair bill would have been £1500!

i passed it yesterday morning. managed 52 and 53 through the speed trap. it was a case of almost hitting the limiter in 2nd gear but those speeds were pretty much perfect, well happy with it

sorry to hear about the crash mate. i did it on my moped a few years ago, i know it hurts!

what bike is it?

would help if you said what ped it is? some mopeds have a plastic washer restricting the variator, but not all

why specifically choose a potentially unsafe helmet?

find out the problems and fix it yourself. 50cc mopeds are the easiest things in the world to work on!