Gamer

Also from what I found on internet on CG125 engine choke won't increase revs. (Lumor_uk confirm??)

that's good to know for future

spark plugs

it looks like they are melted by temperature - yes Kawasaki will have a problem when it will spread.

you right guys

tapping noise and too high revs(2000 or more - speed with choke on, not idle)

check the OIL LEVEL - top up as i would say thats why it is dying like that (is the engine not getting too hot?) - than verify tapping again (should be more quiet too)

There is direct link of power from battery, but controlled by ignition switch - funny name is it not ?

Can that coil unit is not mounted correctly - metal to metal (- goes through a frame, + goes by cable)

so you have power - no spark on spark plug?

follow WalneyFrankie advice

check/change - spark plug

check/change - power cable from coil to plug (sometimes they brake inside)

check/change - coil unit

check/change - sometimes just old/rusted power cable connection - was the bike not used for longer?

will wait till weekend and try it out

and it is also a time to change a toothbrush anyway

thanks

If the clutch cable is far away hanging like yours - it is more likelly stuck somewhere

From photos I can see that it is a project/repair - is the clutch cable not too tight somewhere?? crumpled between two metal parts or something similar

Can be also that a clutch itself is engaged all the time so no play on cable

If it is loose and can move freely - change cable as this one is too long (different bike ?)

Is clutch working ok at all?

as I read for my gsx600f

down - full tank

left - reserve

right - free flow (to fill up carbs - for whatever the reason, not cutting of anyway)

What do you mean by "It settled in position"?

when I will finally find a "connection" and it is definite on for power to go through the kill switch

WF

I would rather say that the switch is playing around

No hot grips

When I can find clutch switch to clean it? WD40 will be enough?

Still I should clean my bike well - with oil in every possible place

Phill

But I am not consistant and sometimes just kill switch to stop the engine (too far for key to turn )

Thanks

PS

Sorry I was the one stuck abroad (volcano dust or something)

Or it is just a fuel - too much water in it

Wait and refill better fuel (V-power) or simply change the garage this time

check air and fuel filter - just in case

Clues that works for me:

Motorway

1. 20/20 rule is good example

2. When in slow traffic and driver swings away to let me pass I ALWAYS say thanks hand signal or nod

When a bike is equiped with hazard lights in my opinion switch them on and wave your hand from time to time also.

3. Especially on motorways try to look at drivers heads - sit still (unlikely to make trouble) - head is moving (lookin by shoulder to change a lane possibly).

Once in a heavy standing traffic (my beginning of riding) on M25 I have missed my turn on to M4 - I was so focused on my safety and watching everything that I did not look at the signs

Other roads

1. I usually have roundabout on the end of a traffic (ring road), so I always tend to stay on a rear weel of the 1 car but beeing sure that the second car is aware about situation, it is just one car and I will pass him after this junction anyway.

2. On straight crossing I tend to go ahead of the 1 car as most drivers will stay a bit away from the white line. But never crossing white line with both weels - it looks realy rude from a car perspective

I have recieved only smiles when filtering and I stopped to open someones mirror I can't believe that anyone can drive mirrors closed - but seems like lots of drivers do it. On the other hand one driver had closed his mirror (automatic ones) to let me pass in standing traffic

I can only add that it is normal thing to have 3-5% more on speedo.

Police and safety or politics - choose one

All the clock's will show more as to stop us from speeding

There was a big fuss about it few years back

Bike or car - same thing.

You think you are at 75mph - no you are still legal - doing only 70mph

I am still on 32-33mph and camera never flashed hope it will never flash

Well it is not the best advice to put though

DO NOT EXCEED THE SPEED LIMITS

Hi,

Yesterday my bike surprised me

Nice evening still some day light so I decided to go for a ride to (learn) navigate some roundabouts.

Story before the question.

On a bike, stand up, key on, power !! - ups nothing - like there was no power.

Tryied few times - nothing at all. Tested the lights, horn - battery is fine.

Than I flicked few times the cut off switch.

I have noticed that the rev gauge is jumping up while changing cut off switch position.

So clutch in starter on and flick the switch again - got a short brust only.

Few more times and finally it settled in position and I could start the engine. Tried few times (without moving red one) and it started again no problems.

It is parked on a street (dead end type) and fragile to the weather.

Question?

What should I do now - strip it all clean it or should I simply replace it?

How difficult or expensive it can be? I will try myself first.

Is it something that can stop me in the middle of nowhere - and prevent the bike from going anywhere?

Suzuki GSX600F 1999

PS

Today morning on the other hand all fine - but I did not stop the engine by use of switch yesterday.

Yellow day motorbike ride out - sounds good with my yellow bike

Sadly I am away for a week from 10th.

Hope you will go for a ride next weekend, next weekend, next weekend............

Suspension

shocks are designed to handle raider and pilon both or just a rider

you adjust spring by:

- maikng it longer = softer

- shorter = stiffer

Adjusting relates only to your ride style - so to make ride identical solo to pilon you should make suspension harder

If you can handle different bike handling while riding with pilon - just be sure of tyre pressure.

Grips

If this works with power on only than it is connected via ignition switch, and putting additional stress (power) will make it's life shorter = replacing ignition switch at some point

akey

unfortunate my experience is to do with older stuff - not with new engines, and that's what I can advise

but thanks for an update

Video is good,

My experience with cars says - never ever use any tool for tightening oil filter. Use only your hands and it will be enough.

But in a bike there is not always enough space for it.

Don't go too tight as you will have serious problems taking it out again after few miles

for the winter - carbed is better as you control choke

I start the bike, gloves on close helmet 1st gear (already 30 sec past) off my drive 2nd gear - choke off and crusing to crossing for like half a mile - when stops at lights engine still runs

Ignition will automaticly rev more (auto-choke) also with relativelly warm start in todays mornings

As general for summer riding go for ignition version, but check Service History it is a must

it is only carbs setting

every engine wears out different as so carb need to be adjusted for this engine only - new carb old engine do the maths - factory setting will work with new engine

wrong carb setting and choke will not work as revs too

After reading all

if it is tapping and oil level is correct - I would guess that pans (saucer) are going out - engine dying

tapping noise will be louder when temperature rise and when putting stress on engine - hard acceleration

as you had oil in air filter - too much oil and overloaded engine by this

Not many people knows that too much oil can cause similar damage to one done by not enough oil in the engine

Go to different garage and seek advice

many times you can get lights up, but it will be not enough for a starter or ignition for plugs to fire = battery first

Flooded? - not a big deal for carbed engine.

Turn it few times and it will clear (no plugs = quicker but messy)

While plugs out - turn it and see you have sparks on each of plugs - one part sorted = you have ignition.

If you can flush the tank - do it

Can change fuel pipes - it is only rubber and can get swollen ( manufacturer recomendations are for 6 years or so to change fuel lines (cars and bikes the same)

Last thing will be carburetors got dirty from fuel residing on the bottom (water = corrosion, dust = blocked pipes)

Hi,

Had also fazer 99.

Through my short experience with bikes I have learned that clutch will always go to the top of the leaver.

My bikes always were there with short clutch - I will call it.

Untill it not slips you should not be worried.

Also there is something like self adjusting thing in most bikes (as I heard) and you should not realy touch it. As you can tighten it up too much and shorten live on your clutch.

I just learned how to use it and last time 3k miles after still the same

I am more up to cars technical stuff than bikes yet

Hope this helps