James Vincero

On 06/03/2021 at 21:52, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

I've never had a stalling problem with FI. Nor overheating. There's not a lot to set up really. I agree with using good branded fuel with good quality additives to keep the system clean.

Yes, this is what i was looking for. I understand that stalling and over heating is an issue that all motors face in one way or another, but every carb bike I've ever owned was temperamental.

It didn't like being hot, being cold, being high up and the list continues. I'm about ready not have an emotional bike anymore lol.

Any recommendations?

I guess my question wasn't very specific.

The key things I was asking about were the issues above.

Does is stall when you get below 5000 revs or over heat if not correctly set?

If this is the case and these problems are not present in EFI then sign me up lol.

Also is their a top 10 Fuel Injected bikes video or blog post or something?

I haven't found any. Most of the research I've seen suggest it's just dirt bikes.

I don't mind paying more. I'm very happy to pay more not to have these issues.

I've only ever ridden bikes with carburettors, never ridden a fuel injected bike, mostly because they were too expensive. 

I've had issue in the past with bikes that crank up the revs in neutral and stalled in 1st gear under 5000 RPM, due to the settings on the carb.

Is this a non-issue on a fuel injected bike?

What are the major benefits of fuel injection?

I understand the theory behind them, just never experienced the benefits.

That said, they were Carbed  bikes. I've never ridder a fuel injection so I can't say how that would be different.

On 02/03/2021 at 15:43, dynax said:

Ordinarily the whole process would take a couple of months, but at the moment I would expect it to take at least six months with the backlog of testing from cancellations due to covid.

Your first step will be to apply for a provisional licence then book a CBT, this will at least allow you to legally ride a 125, there are plenty of 125's that are at the upper limit of 15bhp which will handle your weight.

I recently saw a review of a Hyosung GV 125 vtwin which although quite pricey from new, maybe be a good shout on the used market, also I think they are made in Korea

 

This video is great btw, thanks. I've ridden many 150cc bikes here and I can't get above 30 mph on them and they tend to over heat with the pressure lol.Trust me when I say a 125 is less than useless for me lol

 

On 01/03/2021 at 06:21, peatear said:

 

Then, as above applies.

Get yourself the provisional licence and start your motorbike journey. Once you have your licence you can legally ride the Himalayan/TransAlp.

Essentially once you finish the CBT you have two years to complete the MOD2. Get asking some schools for prices and how they go about the DAS.

How long should this process take? Could I do all of this in weeks? Or will it take me months or years?

1 hour ago, peatear said:

Geofferz stated at 24+ he can do DAS. So I would assume that is what he is responding to when saying he is well over 24.
 

Geofferz covered it basically.
DAS applies to you if you want a higher CC bike than 125cc.
You would get a provisional licence, then find a motorcycle school who will train you.

Oftentimes they will include the CBT. So CBT (to be able to ride on provisional), then usually a crossover lesson (to 'wean' you on to a bigger bike), then X amounts

of training lessons (decided by you/the school dependant on ability), then MOD1 test followed by MOD2 test.  This can vary in price a lot. All depending on amount

 of training, but like Geofferz stated. Baseline £500-ish.

 The Motorcycle theory would also have to be taken at some point BEFORE the Mod1.

In a normal world of things being right, this could have achievable in about a month possibly even less I think.

Now thanks to back log/covid/etc ... It is a little bit harder to predict.

 

Still, you need a licence first. No idea how it all applies to a non-UK citizen if you're not one.
 

I'm a UK citizen, just been out of the UK for about as long as I've been riding bikes. I'm happy to pay what I need to get the license, that no problem. But the ultimate goal is to come back to the UK, get a license and then maybe buy a Himalayan or TransAlp to go travelling with.

Here in Asia I can't buy a bike, well I can and I've owned a few, but I can never legally transfer the deed/title into my name.

Plus a lot of the countries I wanna go travelling to actually do require a license lol. unlike 90% of south east Asia.

2 hours ago, Copycat73 said:

odd.. you don`t know what direct access is .. yet shout the key age attached to it ..  so now i call SOCK PUPPET account ... 

Literally every post on this topic mentions the age 24.

On 27/02/2021 at 16:01, geofferz said:

You have to have pass a cbt test to ride 125s in the uk. If you want to ride bigger bike and are over 24 then you have to pass your full Direct Access test which is 3-5 days training, a skills test in a car park then a road riding test. Will cost £500 or so. If you're under 24 it's a bit more complex. 

2 hours ago, Copycat73 said:

odd.. you don`t know what direct access is .. yet shout the key age attached to it ..  so now i call SOCK PUPPET account ... 

On 27/02/2021 at 17:43, Copycat73 said:

looks like your stuck wit a 125cc and cbt. L plates .. or go direct access ..  

What is direct access and how do I do it?

I;m well over 24.

43 minutes ago, KiwiBob said:

Where did you obtain you motorcycle licence? If you have a full motorcycle licence that you obtained in either Hong Kong, Japan, Korea or Singapore you can exchange it for a UK licence. 

I have never obtained a license.

I've been riding motorbike bikes here in Asia now for about 5 months and scooters for about 10 years. I've ridden 125cc bikes and they just don't have the power to move me. I've  a heavy guy (18st) and most 125s hardly move at all with me on them.

I was told when I come back the UK I can take and access to full license? I don't really know what that means. 

Do I really have to ride around London on a 125 for 2 years, get and A2, then ride around on a 200cc for another 2 years before I can ride a 400cc bike?

I was planning to buy a Himalayan when I get back and go travelling in Europe, but it seems that might take some time.

I'm getting better, but sometimes I have dodgy shifts. Like I won't release the clutch as smooth on an up shift or not rev matching on the way down.

Does this hurt the bike?

Is it a wear and tear thing or is it like this will mess up the transmission? What level of bad is this?

On 08/02/2021 at 16:44, bonio said:

You're right - the bike isn't meant to stall in neutral.

If is does stall, it could mean

• The idle is set too low (Like TimR said)
• The engine isn't running as smoothly as it should (either a problem with fuelling, the mix of air and fuel coming from the carbs, or with delivering the spark)
• The clutch isn't fully disengaged

Best to check each of these in turn

The guys at Yamaha said it was due to a dirty carb and some cart of the carb was damaged. They've replaced that part, cleaned it and set the idle higher. They say she's good to come pick up tomorrow!

4 minutes ago, stedebs said:

is it just when the engine is cold??????? or after it's warmed up?

Sometimes I'll drive for 20 minutes and sit at the lights, pop it into neutral and then off it goes.

6 minutes ago, bonio said:

You're right - the bike isn't meant to stall in neutral.

If is does stall, it could mean

• The idle is set too low (Like TimR said)
• The engine isn't running as smoothly as it should (either a problem with fuelling, the mix of air and fuel coming from the carbs, or with delivering the spark)
• The clutch isn't fully disengaged

Best to check each of these in turn

It stalls actually in neutral as well.

I took it to the shop today and they said the clutch is shot, it needs a new clutch but also the carburettor is dirty and possible damaged.

They didn't check the idle but that could also be an issue for it.

Thanks guys.

Good to know it's not something new I have to learn about higher displacement bikes lol.

I've been renting a Yamaha XSR 155 for about 2 months now. I thought it best to learn to ride on my own bike because I feel my newbie riding won't be healthy for the bike and I can be responsible for any wear and tear it may cause. I also figured it would give me real world hands on experience of what it's like to go to the shop and have my own mistakes fixed so I could understand what I do and what problem it causes.

So I went out and bought myself a Yamaha Scorpio 225cc. It the highest displacement bike I've ever ridden (except for a 3 minute test drive on a Kawasaki Estrella which I'm not gonna count).

It's a 2012 so it has some issues with it (one really lazy owner).

The biting point on the clutch when I bought it was about 3mm from fully clenched and the mechanic fixed it up a little but still not great. I think it may need to be replaced.

From the start it has always stalled, in neutral if the revs got bellow a certain point.

My understanding of neutral is it exists to keep the engine idling when there's now power running through the engine. 

I've since test ridden another Scorpio and it had the same issue too!

I've never had it on any of the other bikes I've test ridden (Kawasaki W175, Yamaha XSR155, Kawasaki KLX 150, Honda CSR 150).

Maybe this is a new thing I'm having to get to grips with with post 200cc bikes, or maybe there's another issue with my bike.

Is this normal?