chalkmyster

I use wd40 to clean the chain after a ride/commute then wipe down with cloth, spray some wd and then add some chainlube.

I do this every other week with the occasional additional lube in the week, depending on weather conditions. So far I have travelled 7k miles in sine the end of may with the bike completing a total of 14500 miles and would be expecting to change the chain within the next 2/3 months.

Daily return commute 110 miles (95% motorway) - should really get a scottoiler

So, after 280 odd miles the bandit is no longer smoking from the engine. This is mainly after taking the cam cover off, cleaning, checking head bolts, applying sealant and snapping a banjo bolt for the cover!! Argh!!!

Anyways, after a frantic search for a replacement I was able to ride the bike to work on Monday - with no issues.

However, i have now noticed that the bandit is getting louder with the tappets. They where adjusted to Haynes manual suggestions (thickest feeler gauge size - 0.15mm for In and 0.25mm for Exh i think).

What makes tappets tap?

Is it the distance/gap, should they be the smallest gap? This would 0.10mm for In.

I do need to change oil (looking quite dark), this gets done every 2 months/4000 miles.

new head gasket and tensioner

Maybe the o'rings etc?

Look at it this evening (from 7pm onwards....fading light) and after about 10 mins the engine block started to smoke. But then the smoke died.

However after a twists on the throttle the engine block started to smoke again.....on investigation it looks like oil is seeping from the front - middle/top of engine.

Now...if this was the head gasket leaking , would this make the engine run rough?

At present no smoke is coming out of exhaust on or off throttle and drives/rides ok.

Yep, we will be going, not sure what day though.

Update - engine back together, took majority of the day to do but managed to get the bike started at 2030 hrs.

Got slightly worried when it wouldn't start after a few turns - turns out the carbs have 2 vacum pipes, 1 to the tank and the to the PAIR.

My only other concern now is the engine block is smoking after about 5/10 mins from starting. I will check tomorrow during the day as it was daylight was fading. I suspect this is just oil/dirt etc.. that is burning off?

You can always check http://www.Fuelly.com

I know its a different bike I get 170 - 230 out of my GSF 600.

bugger I thought it was going in too far

The main thing is you wont have any problems with the piston hitting the plug like I first thought

The bike would still run and I doubt you would notice a difference there's only one way to check!

No sorry, defo will not hit piston - the other way

I just dont wont to waste half day on rebuild to then find out, but you are the second person to say it should be ok/no difference.

Thanks for your help, always good to get another opinion .

hold on

Have I read this wrong

Is the plug not going in as far as the others or further in then the others?

Its not going in as far as the others.

It does look a lot more then that to be honest

I was wondering if you could get away with a thick copper washer to space it but then you wouldn't know till you fitted it

To me, its as if the insert has not been drilled in further enough to allow the plug to sit lower.

At present, and if i fitted this, the engine would not run correctly as chamber 3 has a less/weak spark...being further away compared to other 3 sparks?

That looks way too much to me but could be the camera angle!

I would take it back to who did the repair and voice your concerns

I've tried to be generous with the camera angle.

how much lower are you talking?

you usually have a little clearance but you also have to allow for con rod stretch at high revs!

I would say its about 2 - 4 mm different compared to the other 3 spark plugs.

The other 3 plugs housing sit flush with cast with electrode out. The drilled hole plug makes the housing of plug sit under the casing thus making the electrode only sitting a few mm out of the chamber.....if that makes sense.

Pictures dont really show it - but its the left hole/plug is the drilled one, which you can see just sits below the right one.

How did you get it stuck you just turn it the other way to remove it?, having read all you posts I am wondering if you have a cross threaded plug, in which case you will need to put an insert coil in after it has been removed.

The easy-out got to a point that I could not turn it any more. With no clamp or additional muscle power (i have small guns) the easy-out was stuck.

Dont know what had happened to the previous spark plug but it was not shifting for me.

Today, the head was ready for collection - collected by the old man with the old spark plug.

However, I return home from work to start the rebuild and install the new plugs (all the same size etc). The drilled and inner plug now sits lower (not protruding as the other 3 chambers/pots).

Now I'm slightly concerned if this will be ok? 3 sparks plugs protruding with electrode and tips but drilled spark plug now sit lower.

Will try and upload some pics.

Update -

Easy Out purchased and arrived but got it stuck

Decided to take the head (with Easy Out) to Engine specialist in Carmarthen to help....now waiting for the phone call to say it's ready.

The story so far:

Cylinder 3

Tried to nudge the plug outer but am worried of damaging the bottom of the head....now ordered a bolt removal tool.

Got a sore and enlarged thumb today as well.... time for some wine!

Spark plug rubber things??

Where are these located...I have the head off but don't remember seeing any rubber things for the spark plugs. I did see rubber o'rings under head.

Right, the head is now off (came off yesterday PM). Sparkplug inner has been removed and now I'm waiting for an "easy out" tool bit to arrive - also that I'm in London until Wednesday PM.

Other parts are now on order as well:

Head Gasket

Gasket for cam tensioner

4x new spark plugs

All should arrive by Wednesday/Thursday....hoepfully.

Do I need anything else????

Also, any advice on what to look out for during rebuild?

Many thanks.

Will try and upload some pics tonight.

Okay, thanks, what size would you recommend?

I now have the head off and now only have the outer core of the spark plug.

 

Similar to the one in the picture, it needs to be a nice tight fit.

Similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Pcs-Easy-Out-Scre ... B000W2950W

Before you start drilling and worrying about helicoils, look for a tool called an Easy Out. It is basically a wrong way round screw thread.

http://cdn.houserepairtalk.com/attachments/f33/2979d1313072552-need-extractor-tool-help-ez-out.jpg

What you do is drill a small hole in the centre of what you want to remove, then tap it in so it bites into the plug remains and then undo by tapping gently on the top to keep the threads engaged while turning it anti clockwise which makes the threads bite in and should allow you to undo it without any damage to the threads.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/813555667_FdNqM-XL.jpg

No need to drill the hole that big and use an easy out that big either, but he was probably being safe. Whatever you do, do not snap one of these off.

Okay, thanks, what size would you recommend?

I now have the head off and now only have the outer core of the spark plug.

If your going the hammer and chisel route then make sure the piston is at its lowest point so if it goes through you minimise the risk of killing a piston too

Personally I would take the head off

Taking head off now - well....in the process of removing camshafts....scary stuff

If I was to purchase a Helicoil set what would be the MK size needed?

Also, tempted to take the engine out then take head off, seems to be a lot of crap down the chamber - hoover at the ready.

Head off mate in my humble opinion........you'll be lucky to get enough of an angle to knock the remaining plug round to free it with it in situ.......and any damage to the plug seat or threads and the head would be kn*ckered......

Remove the cylinder head and then you can really get at it and either try to remove it yourself or take it somewhere to get it removed professionally. The cylinder head is alloy.....won't take much of a knock in the wrong place to b*gger it up completely.

Obviously just my opinion....but I personally wouldn't risk trying to remove the remaining plug without taking the head off......

Any advice on how to take the head off.....what I need to look out for etc?

Haynes manual ready for reading tonight

Drown it in wd40 and leave it for 30 mins and then drown it some more leave it for another 30 mins to soak in, then as suggested above get a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. What you want to do is place the head of the screwdriver on the edge of the sparkplug so the screwdriver is almost vertical and hit it with the hammer do this until there's a little groove, this will give you an area from which the screwdriver won't slip when being hit. Now place the screwdriver at an angle so it's almost horizontal with the head in the groove you created earlier and give it a gentle tap with the hammer (make sure it's anticlockwise!! ) keep gently hitting the screwdriver gradually increasing the force with a bit of luck it will start to turn, if not keep drowning it in wd40 for a day or two and give it another go!

Chamber is now soaking in WD40, will give it a go tomorrow with the chisel/screwdriver but access is limited.

The better half

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/2168611/2012-0 ... .14.17.jpg

It could still work.....right????