MrBlonde71

I had the same on my old ER-5. The regulator/Rectifier was faulty and fried my battery as well. Changed both and no more charging problems.

I don't know if it would need restricting for an A2 license, It only has 46bhp and I have a full license so never needed to find out. As for riding when learning i think it would be fine, it has good brakes and handles well in my opinion.

I have an MT-03, only had it for about 3 months. What is the o2 mod you are talking about? can you give me a link?

I bought this one a few weeks ago and it works fine, Comes with bobbin adapters, only 29.99 + fiver postage. http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/592674/Workshop/Universal-Paddock-Stands/Tech-7

I fitted the wires for these gloves to my bike yesterday and rode to work this morning at 05.45?!?. They definitely keep the cold off, I didn't really appreciate them until I accidentally unplugged them and my hands felt the cold straight away! They are no way near as hot as heated grips but the grips only heat my palms whereas the gloves keep the finger tips and the length of the finger warm. Without these gloves both my thumb end and the end of my middle finger would get freezing in the wind but with them they were as normal. In my opinion worth the money if you ride in the cold.

I used to have a CG125 and I'm sure when I was looking to get some heated grips I came to the conclusion that the battery is not powerful enough for them. The heated grips I was looking at were 6amps and I think the CG battery can only provide 2.5amps!! Check in the bike manual if you have it to see what the battery is rated at.

I use both in winter, Heated grips heat up the inside of the muffs, Still no good at 1 degree and 60 mph!!! As for the grips draining the battery, I fitted a car relay under the seat which is connected to the horn circuit, when the ignition is off the heated grips wont work, I decided to do this after turning up to work for a 12 hour shift and forgetting to turn my grips off, Battery was completely flat when I wanted to go home?!?

Thanks for the replies, I'm still considering it, but will try projectors if I do it. I bought some osram nightbreakers and when I went to fit them noticed that the reflector was really dull? cleaned it up as best i could through the little hole and i think the combination of clean reflector and new lamp have made a huge difference. Nice write up on your web site alexander. Thanks.

Just bought the nightbreakers and will see if they are better than my old £2 bulbs. Hope so!!!

Thanks for the replies, maybe i'll just replace the reflector inside and try an Osram Thanks.

I use my bike to get to work most months of the year, this means I ride quite a bit in the dark.(6am and 10pm) My headlight is not very bright. couple of questions: Has anyone done a HID conversion on thier bike?? They claim to be 3 times brighter? are they? I found a H4 to HID conversion kit on e-bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Xenon-HID-Motorcycle-Headlight-Conversation-Full-HI-LO-H4-Bulb-Kit-6000k-/330709113918?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cffcc9c3e Do the ballast packs get very hot? are they likely to melt the reflector if housed inside the 7" headlight? Can my 10amp battery handle these as well as my heated grips(not sure what current the grips draw)? What colour is best? Have seen 3800k, 6000k and 8000k not too sure what this means but the 8000k look blue? Most importantly are they brighter? Thanks for any help.

[album]761[/album] Someone sent this picture to me!!!! Huge fire?!?

Tried the bike at lunchtime and still no joy. Jump started the bike using the car, started first touch of the button, and rode to work, picking up a new battery on the way. Fitted the battery at work and it started straight away, 25 mile ride home later this evening should top it up and we will see if it starts tomorrow. (fingers crossed)

The battery measures 13.5v with the ignition off but when I try and start it drops to between 8 and 9 volts and the starter relay just clicks, now the supply to charge it is correct do you think I will charge properly. The thing is if I get it started tomorrow and ride to work I will be 25 miles from home and it's a long way to push home!

The rectifier/regulator on my bike has been supplying the battery with between 17 & 18 volts, it is fixed now but do you think it will have damaged the battery? It has probably been doing it for about a month. I replaced the old battery with this new one because the bike was struggling to start, these symptoms have returned which is why I have delved deeper. Do you think i Will have to replace it again?

I recently changed my Battery, following the instructions I added the acid and left it for an hour, then fitted it to the bike, the bike started first try and then I went on a 25 mile ride (trip to work) and it has been fine. Fit a new battery and ride from London to Brighton and it will be charged.

I had the same thing recently. My battery was reading 12.5 volts and sometimes the bike was slow to start, (by slow i mean 10 - 15 secs), The new battery came and there was a chart in the box showing some voltages and charge capacity @ 12.5v it was only 50%. With the new battery fitted it starts within 1-2 secs. So maybe with 12.7 you should look at getting a new battery.

With a combination of: and: I managed 61 MPG on my last tank. Not bad, but a bit boring. I think i will live with 55 and have a bit of fun.

that's the problem, i rode the same journey for 2 years on a 125 and was getting 90mpg, but couldn't overtake anything. Now i can overtake but get 50, i think i would rather keep the speed and lower mpg!!

Hello bob, thanks for replying my bike is not restricted and i serviced it in march. I don't think the mpg is lower than it should be i just want more!! Most of my riding is commuting along the old A1 to Peterborough so crusing? At 60ish mph. And then town/city riding.

I want higher MPG from my bike, I know that my right hand has a lot to do with it..... but i think it needs help. I'm thinking of changing sprocket sizes, which is best to change? I know that the front is very difficult to remove but will it make more difference? Would changing one over the other make the engine work any harder? Has anyone else done it and seen improvements?

Option B I done CBT then bought a cg125 for £800, Rode it for 1 year and 11 months then passed theory and booked 4 lessons on a 500 and passed mod1 and mod2 just in time for the CBT to run out, Sold the cg for £825 with 11,000 more miles on it. Now got an ex school bike to get used to the extra power. total cost was near £600, CBT training and test fees.

It was much easier to fit this way, no cutting into any wiring or chasing wires to relays.

I was worried about this after i fitted my grips, The on/off controls are on the bars so could be turned on or off by anyone, So i fitted a switch under the seat. If I leave the bike for any length of time or anywhere someone could turn the grips on i turn the switch off, would also stop any battery drain?

They are done up tight, 130Nm. I had a plank of wood through the back wheel resting on the swing arm and someone standing on the opposite side of the bike to get mine undone, got there eventually!!!!