Heated grips - hard wired

[Pete]

So I got some Oxford Heated Grips today, my second ever set. I installed some on the last bike that I owned and had the + and - going straight to the battery. However this time I'd like to hard wire. As I understand it, it's the + that can be hard-wired to the ignition cable (or is that the -? I don't understand it so well obviously ). Is there any way I can hard-wire both the + and -, or is it just the one?

Just been looking at my Haynes manual wiring diagram and I can probably locate the ignition cable...but how would I go about double checking the I've got the right wire before I go splicing into it? Oh and does anyone have any tips on how to make a tidy job of it? Such as a 3-way spade connector or similar?!

Thanks brains

[PhatDad]

So I got some Oxford Heated Grips today, my second ever set. I installed some on the last bike that I owned and had the + and - going straight to the battery. However this time I'd like to hard wire. As I understand it, it's the + that can be hard-wired to the ignition cable (or is that the -? I don't understand it so well obviously ). Is there any way I can hard-wire both the + and -, or is it just the one?

Just been looking at my Haynes manual wiring diagram and I can probably locate the ignition cable...but how would I go about double checking the I've got the right wire before I go splicing into it? Oh and does anyone have any tips on how to make a tidy job of it? Such as a 3-way spade connector or similar?!

Thanks brains

 

It's the + you need to hardwire. I had already fitted some 12v cigarette sockets so ran the heated grip wire all the way to the back of the bike and wired it into the rear light where the 12v sockets had been connected.

[Pete]

Gotcha, cheers. Does the neg - still have to be connected to the battery with the little round clip-thing? And how did you go about locating the ignition cable for the cigarette lighter, or was it on before you got the bike?

[Pete]

Just looking around t'internet and people are saying things like connecting the grips to indicators, etc but I don't fancy the sound of that. I'd be worried the wire couldn't cope with the amount of current...maybe I'll just chuff it off and put it straight to the battery!

Thoughts?

[Guest]

As long as you don't forget to turn em off!! No problem!!

Mine are straight from battery. Always have done.

I have considered wiring in a relay, just haven't got round to it yet.

[TC]

Pete you dont need to do that with the new ones.

They will automatically cut when the power drops below a certain whatever it is.

Plus you wont be able to turn them on unless you have enough power in the battery

[Guest]

hard wire through a relay, power to relay and take a live feed from the rear light. lights on turns on relay and grips.. simples.

reason for rear light, its an easy power source to find near the battery.. and then when the ignition and lights are off so are the grips..

[Guest]

So Simon, lemme see if i understand this correctly.

Live feed to grips interrupted by a relay. Live feed from another source through the switch part of relay (like an ignition switched source).

I am assuming the relay has no power draw to speak of? And I am assuming the relay itself is an electromagnet of sorts? To physically switch the relay I mean....

I have plenty of relays kicking about.... Just a little job near the top of my 'to do' list I haven't done yet...

[Guest]

a relay has four pins,

example fog lights

1. live to switch the relay on (headlights as a feed) (powers the electromagnet to turn relay on)

2. Earth

3. power from battery (with in line switch for fog lights)

4. output feed to accessory (foglights)

in addition the accessory has a earth connection of its own.

therefroe both 1 and 3 need power for 4 to have power..

have done this fitting my aux lights, would work without a switch in the live feed (3) for grips, horn etc. (horn would have to have 1. as the horn switch)

all you'd need are spade female connectors, a relay and a short length of wire, and a scotchlok to cut into the power feed to the rear light (not the earth or brake light feed...)

[Guest]

Cheers for that mate. I will have a play with a mock up loom.

[Guest]

with your mock up, earth it and when you apply a power feed you should hear a click this is the switch arming itself, so this is the one to apply your on/off switch feed to.. most come with simple wiring diagrams and the pins are numbered..

[Guest]

Yep, ta. Checked each one individually on the blade over the summer.......

Now have a load of spares ....

[Pete]

Oooooooh now I understand!

Shame really as I spent all day fitting my grips today and just put them straight to the battery! No matter, I guess I can always change it at a later date.

Incidentally I'm going to try and put a tutorial together for anyone else considering installing heated grips. Only thing is my nice camera died after the first couple of pics so had to use my phone camera...so may not post depending on quality!

[Guest]

I ran 3 wires taped in to the loom in to a small waterproof "auxilary" box under the seat.

The wires are:

Positive (from battery) with 15A fuse

Negative (from battery)

Ignition live (with 5A fuse) to trigger relays.

Like this

------[batt +ve]---[15A fuse]----[Aux Box]

------[batt -ve]-----------------[Aux Box]

------[ignition live]-[5A fuse]-----[ Aux Box]

The wires terminate to a joining block, which I then tap in to for the grips and 12V socket, instead of going back to the battery every time.

The relay's I use have 4 pins (1 relay for each "device")

Relay Wiring

30 -----[device supplied fuse]----- Positive feed (inside aux box)

85 -------------------------------- Negative feed (inside aux box)

86 -----[5A Fuse]------------------ Live feed (inside aux box)

87 -------------------------------- Positive feed to device (heated grips/12v socket etc.)

The negative for the grips goes to the negative feed in the aux box.

The only things going back to the battery are the connections for this aux box, and the Optimate lead.

Anything else I want to add just goes to the aux box instead, each with a relay (if needed) and a fuse, keeping things tidy... er.

Wiring up to relay

------[batt +ve]---[15A fuse]----[Aux Box]---[device fuse]---[relay pin 30]

------[batt -ve]-----------------[Aux Box]---[relay pin 85]

------[ignition live]-[5A fuse]-----[ Aux Box]--[relay pin 86]

Device Wiring

---[+ve]-----[Relay Pin 87]

---[-ve]-----[-ve supply in aux box]

With the grips - make sure the throttle returns once fitted. The bar ends were a bit tight on mine, so I trimmed about 3mm off the end of the grip to stop the throttle sticking open.

Hope that helps. If needed I can drawer up a wiring diagram.

[lib]

check your grips. Mine switch themselves off if the voltage drops.

[Guest]

One of the members LittleOms has already done a video for wiring accessories.

http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 19&start=0

[Guest]

If you want to wire up without a relay then......

find your fuse box, locate the highest rated fuse (main).

Put a volt meter on it and double check it goes to zero on switching off the ignition, then find the live side by lifting one side of the fuse and checking with a volt meter what side of the fuse holder is live with the ignition on. This live side is the side you can solder the heated grip supply lead to without putting extra strain on the main fuse.

Run the wire safely out of the fuse box and tidily up to the bars and hey presto heated grips that go and off with the ignition without relays.