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Red RTV and gaskets?!


skatefreak
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Hey,

So after getting a new head gasket which is what appeared to the be issue (and losing it... well putting it somewhere safe so its somewhere here *Grrr*), i'v been looking at the old gasket in there. Asside the fact it was deffinatly leaking (put some silicon gaskety stuff over it which inevitably lasted as long as it took to rev up the engine but visible black stuff coming from behind it) the gasket in there looks fine...

It essentially looks like the shape of the split head with the edges raised slightly and oevrall looks just fine...

So i was wondering if it would be worth putting some red RTV seal between there just incase (have some laying around) being careful not to let it get into the combusion chanber of course...


This also leads me on to a second question...

The bike had an after market pipe put on it a short while before i got it and the exhaust is much louder and improves the performance somewhat or so i'm told and is significatly shorter than the stock end. Now from what little i know about 4 stroke petrol engines isnt this going to interfere with the mixture and possibly may have contributed to the breaching head?


Any thoughts on the subject would be much appreciated :)


Best regards


-Jvr

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Hey,

Opps, yeah, i should have mentioned, i got tired of waiting and fancy some form of reliability with this bike so i have gone ahead and ordered a new head gasket that should be here soon.


I'm just wondering if this gasket is going to do the job....


The gasket in there at the moment looks mint, if not a little oily... :|


-Jvr

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Hey,

Opps, yeah, i should have mentioned, i got tired of waiting and fancy some form of reliability with this bike so i have gone ahead and ordered a new head gasket that should be here soon.


I'm just wondering if this gasket is going to do the job....


The gasket in there at the moment looks mint, if not a little oily... :|


-Jvr

on the head i would always use a gasket and not paste/putty.. whats the bike?

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Kymco 125 stryker 1999.


I guess i should probly just put the new gasket in without any sealent or gunk and see how it goes...


Just mighty frustrating this engine because you cant get the head off without taking the engine completely out of the bike...


You can Nearly get it off but not quiet :|


So rather annoying to be honest...


Back to just waiting for the gasket and bolt it back together jobby...


One last question!

Being an single OHC 4 stroke CG copy, not a bad one but just not terribly intuitive, there was/is absoloutly nout in the way of markings for the cam chain...

This is not good i know and having had the head off and taking it appart i'v probly left myself with a lot of tinkering (getting it right on first time probly isnt likely :|) so i was wondering if anyone had any advice for getting this right?

I know the flywheel for the cam chain has 3 holes, small, big, small, and they go small-bottom, big-forward, small-top, and this is also the position where the cam shaft starts to compess the forward port (exhaust).

I dont suppose anyone has any idea where the poiston should be at this time? Not TDC i'm sure, but somewhere someone said something about interference with the piston and touble like that which would not be good atall so i thought i'd look for some clarification :|


Am off to google a little more, sadly i havnt found any good resources for this kind of knowledge as of yet :|


best regards


-Jvr

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google for a manual or cg125 manual, try googling carl salter, he has bike manuals for free download..


theres a link in guides/manuals, on here, but might be quicker to google him..


and i have to remove a 4cyl block to work on the head, i know which is heavier... lol

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haha,

Unlucky, in a sense :P

Although i cant wait to get out of uni and have the time/space to do a full on restore job with a nice big bike (might get a nice big workshop manual for it though heh) :D


But yes, i think i have cracked it!


The holes in the cam sprocket are the markings and i was just looking at the situation from the wrong angle.


From the rotating arms it turns out when the smaller holes are just about level and the large one is down the engine should be TDC because the exhaust port piston will have just closed and the fuel side is just about to start opening! :D I feel so much better now i know roughly where i am with this :)


Best part is i can ajust the timing somewhat with the engine in the bike (it'll be fiddly no doubt tho :|) :)


Am just hoping there wont be to much in the way of ajusting needed from the marker settings :|


I found a CG workshop manual but again, couldnt figure out heads or tails with these holes as appose to marking heh.


best regards


-Jvr

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