Strange clutch problem...normal?

[jamo]

So, say ive just come off traffic lights, im in first.

I smash the throttle back, to give it some wellie, get it into high revs then pull clutch in and flick up a gear.

But instead it goes into neutral. I try knocking it up again, and it just crunches, like the clutch isnt in. Again, i try knocking it back into first and it crunches again, like the clutch isnt in, but it is. I let the clutch out, pull it back in and try again and it usually works.

It only happens at very high revs/speeds, at normal speeds ive never had any trouble.

Is it me not smashing the gear changer up hard enough, or is their a common fault there?

Its a 2004 Fazer 600.

[Hoody]

Try being sympathetic to the gearbox and slip it into second rather than 'smashing' it.

You will end up with a broken gear box at that rate.

When you power up in first, roll the throttle off momentarily as you snick it into second and let the clutch out before rolling the throttle back. Leaving the revs on will not allow the gears to synch and the teeth on the gears will smash into each other eventually smashing the cogs/gearbox.

[jamo]

Sorry i forgot to mention. Whenever i pull the clutch in i roll off the revs, and dont apply them again until the clutch is at biting point.

[Lumor_uk]

Sorry i forgot to mention. Whenever i pull the clutch in i roll off the revs, and dont apply them again until the clutch is at biting point.

 

You shouldn't rev at the biting point, you should rev when the clutch is fully engaged. Sorry if I'm wrong but I think that's what I was taught on my CBT in Feb. You only rev at the biting point when you are going from a stand still to first.

You should come off the throttle when changing gear, your first post makes it sound like you are really nasty to your bike Maybe we should swap?? Do you drive a car, I change gear more or less the same apart from 1st.

vv

[jamo]

Sorry i forgot to mention. Whenever i pull the clutch in i roll off the revs, and dont apply them again until the clutch is at biting point.

 

You shouldn't rev at the biting point, you should rev when the clutch is fully engaged. Sorry if I'm wrong but I think that's what I was taught on my CBT in Feb. You only rev at the biting point when you are going from a stand still to first.

You should come off the throttle when changing gear, your first post makes it sound like you are really nasty to your bike Maybe we should swap?? Do you drive a car, I change gear more or less the same apart from 1st.

vv

 

When i say biting point i mean where the clutch is no longer active and is nearly fully out. That is when i start to roll on the throttle again.

You should start to roll on the revs just before the clutch is fully disengaged, otherwise you could get jerkiness from the engine braking. And also bikes allow you to "slip the clutch" so you can rev when the clutch is only half in to get better control.

Anyways. Spoke to a mechanic friend of mine. He says it sounds like a gearbox issue. He cant confirm it without taking a look so taking it down next week.

He said IF it is a gearbox issue, on those bikes its probably better to get a new engine

So i MAY be looking for a new bike again.

[Guest]

I rev at biting point ?

[Jerry Can]

What colour is the clutch fluid in the eye glass?

Have you tried bleeding the clutch?

[Guest akey]

your trying to hard and not letting the gears synchronise properly. Look at what hoody has said.

Even at high speed, revs your actions should be controlled and sympathetic, if you are using the clutch then clutch all the way in, gear change, clutch all the way out (smoothly) then accelerate. Once you get this right you can alter the way you feed the clutch out and power in to suit the machine. Dont try to rush gearchanges, you will miss the gear, hit false neutrals and all sorts resulting in slower acceleration.

[jamo]

your trying to hard and not letting the gears synchronise properly. Look at what hoody has said.

Even at high speed, revs your actions should be controlled and sympathetic, if you are using the clutch then clutch all the way in, gear change, clutch all the way out (smoothly) then accelerate. Once you get this right you can alter the way you feed the clutch out and power in to suit the machine. Dont try to rush gearchanges, you will miss the gear, hit false neutrals and all sorts resulting in slower acceleration.

 

Ok, maybe some of the nouns i used were harsh.

I pull the clutch fully in, roll off the revs, change gear, let clutch out and start revving again. Just like every other half competent biker out there.

So lets forget the riding style. No mechanically sound bike should stop you from going into gear from neutral, if the clutch is fully in and the revs are off. Can we focus on this?