Guest Posted May 4, 2010 Posted May 4, 2010 ....(remember to go for loose, not tight...), make sure master cylinder is attached firmly to bars..firstBit confused tho you sed put them on as tight as possible but go for loose not tight?remember to turn to loosen not tighten the bolts..... Quote
MacLean Posted May 4, 2010 Author Posted May 4, 2010 Okay just tried a torx part, at first looked promissing as the star shaped bit seemed to grip nicely. Applied a bit of power to loosen it and it just ground out even more of the bolt.... Have been looking for mole grips which are kicking around somewhere but as of yet havent tried them - are they a bad idea given the shape of the bolt?What else can I do now? Quote
Guest Posted May 4, 2010 Posted May 4, 2010 if you have an extractor you could try drilling it, or a chisel sometimes works, you need to angle it so it cuts into the bolt, in the direction of travel, (undoing..) it will cut in and then hopefully start to undo.. Quote
j4ff Posted May 6, 2010 Posted May 6, 2010 hacksaw across the top or the bolt to create a groove to use a screwdriver Quote
MacLean Posted May 6, 2010 Author Posted May 6, 2010 wernt able to try lastnight but will give the hacksaw and screwdriver a shot... however i dont think im gonna get enough torque with a screw driver so if I cant will use the groove to try and chisel it round... Will see how it goes if I have another bash tonight. Quote
MacLean Posted May 8, 2010 Author Posted May 8, 2010 Okay got the annoying bolt out... Put the new bolts in tightened everything up.Fluid in, and I used one of these hand pumps that make a vacume to bleed the brakes. Tried the lever and it still is touching the handlebar lol It was late last night and traffic was low so took it for a spin to see if theres any difference, and yes they feel firmer, but I still need to pull the lever way too far before the decent brake power kicks in, so im still not satissfied its right.Any suggestions? I really dont want to take it to a mechanic as I've got this far and want to finish it myself! Thanks Quote
j4ff Posted May 8, 2010 Posted May 8, 2010 you have probably still got air bubbles in the lines or the master cylinder.Bleed the lines more times remember to nip the bolt each time just before you are at full lever travel.Release the lever slowly each time.Add a touch of lever pressure just before you release the bolt again squeeze quite quick and keep repeating remembering to keep the reservoir topped up or youll be doing it again.If you cant get the air out the master cylinder on the last stroke nip the bolt and tie the lever against the bar grip and leave over night hopefully the air will escape through the reservoir as it rises. Quote
Guest Posted May 8, 2010 Posted May 8, 2010 tie the lever to the bar overnight, and pump tomorow, worked for me.. Quote
MacLean Posted May 8, 2010 Author Posted May 8, 2010 cheers guys, got the lever cable-tied to the bar now and am gonna leave it till tomorrow and have a feel.Fingers crossed Quote
MacLean Posted May 9, 2010 Author Posted May 9, 2010 YES!!!Took the cable tie off it and now can no longer pull it back to touch the handlebar, Brilliant!Ive read that trick ages ago and some folk argue that it dont work cos it 'scientifically doesnt make sense' however there is a noticable difference and deffo feels miles better now.Many thanks for helping me through this one WalneyFrankie and J4ff! Quote
Guest Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 waqs skeptical myslef, but read it on here, and thought i'd give it a go.. worked for me too... Quote
j4ff Posted May 9, 2010 Posted May 9, 2010 Its sometimes impossible to force the air down the lines if its at the top of the master cylinder.By holding the lever back you are keeping the valve from the master to the reservoir open allowing the air to escape.At last i actually helped some one Did mine a month ago.Ive never felt them so powerfull in all the time ive owned the bike. Quote
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