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brake rebuild


spunky1976
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Having just done my front an back, its actually not a difficult job! Its always worth trying yourself. With the help of a Haynes manual, you should be able to do it! Plus, even if you can't do it, you can always just take the bike in afterwards :S

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i'm with Cobbz, its not difficult to give them a clean, but a garage will charge you £50 for cleaning and over a 100 for rebuild, with new seals and fluid. (thats for twin front disks on a bandit 600)


wemoto.com can provide the seals and fluid,

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All that was necessary to stop my brakes binding was just taking the pads out, taking off the caliper mount, push the pistons back all the way in and a slight clean up... Didn't even need new fluid in the back! unfortunately, i let air get in the front so had to bleed and put new in... but all is fine now!

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£270 ??? :shock:

 

i know looked at kit for seals etc on wemoto its £30 which looking at the kit i assume is al i need apart from brake fluid(http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Yamaha/YZF_600_R_Thunder_cat/96-97/picture/Rebuild_Kit_Full_Seals_Caliper_-_Front/)for my thundercat garage has quoted £110 and £160 labour.


I'm going to try giving it a good clean up like cobbz has said to start with and then probably have a go at overhaul if it needs it. there could well be a lot of questions from me coming up :wink:

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£270 :shock:


i think maybe ill do my own brakes instead of letting the garage do it


:shock:


got this week off college ill look in to it :mrgreen:


EDIT: looking at haynes now :lol:

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just did a price list


£175 incl brake lines and pads


£95 cheaper for a full rebuild from garage. Can't be bad...


although still alot :lol:

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just did a price list


£175 incl brake lines and pads


£95 cheaper for a full rebuild from garage. Can't be bad...


although still alot :lol:

doesn't say his quote included new lines, ....


and i was quoted 180 for new rubber lines, but sourced them on egay for 40 braided

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Depends what they mean by a 'rebuild' as well though. It could be that you can't really know exactly what they have done? Least doing it yourself it doesn't matter about time so you can do a good job. To a garage time is money.


This is a pretty cynical view though and isn't fair to assume in many cases. But always worth considering I think.

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just did a price list


£175 incl brake lines and pads


£95 cheaper for a full rebuild from garage. Can't be bad...


although still alot :lol:

doesn't say his quote included new lines, ....


and i was quoted 180 for new rubber lines, but sourced them on egay for 40 braided

 

I thought that too.


Doesn't include lines? Fking helll...

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nice one spunky, and the satisfaction from doing it yourself is priceless.

i have had a msug grin on for a while driving the missus mad :D

just ordered the seal kit too £33 with new banjo bolt washers and postage bit different to the £110 the garage wanted for same parts :roll:

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great just done quick test round the block twice brakes are still binding pistons were moving freely yesterday when put it all back together :?


guess i'll be walking to work for a bit then until bits come and i can get time to do the full overhaul :crybaby:

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i've not changed the seals yet just pumped each piston partially out, cleaned it lubed it, then repeated until moving fairly freely, then moved on to next one and so on. all the pistons were moving nicely when i put it back together. It actually wasn't as difficult as i thought and the haynes manual helped but made it look more complicated than it was until i actually started doing it. will be doing the seals this week when they come.


having said that its binding still, after pushing it back down the garden seemed to be a lot easier to move :?

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with the calipers off and the pads still in pump the brakes to push out the pistons, then remove the lines, you should be able to get the pistons out easily, remove seals and soak in cleaner, leave to dry fully then rebuild, using brake fluid will aid refitting of seals and pistons.


remember to coppaslip the rear of the pads.

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when you have got the pistons out and removed old seals check there is no dirt muck or anything in where the seals sit as this will stop new seal going in properly and piston will still bind i use a fine point scribe to make sure the seal area is all clear only takes couple of minutes for each piston

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finally finished changing all the seals the old ones were in a right state :shock:

thanks to everyone for there advice on this one as i've never done bike brakes before was a learning experience and without walney frankey i may have left the fecker to burn somewhere :lol:

just got the final bleed to do in the morning as the lever is still a little spongey got the lever tied to the bar overnight apart from this anyone got any bleeding tips?????


oh and to the guy from the other forum i use who said 'just take it to the shop' :up:

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no problem :cheers: and thanks again


been out to bike this morning and the lever is good and firm quick bleed no air, tested at walking pace pulled lever i carried on walking bike stopped dead :shock: it didn't do that before, used to be more of a slow then stop so i guess alls good again. quick test ride later then maybe proper ride out somewhere tomorrow 8-)

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