Rik398 Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 ok folks. i know the oil i need to use and know which filter to use, and i know where the drain plug etc is so im not worried about doing the job. but there are a few problems. many bikes as many people will know have a little see through bit which shows what evel your oil is at. mine doesn't have this and only has a dip stick with threads. Unfortnatley i have lost its manual, so dont know how much oil i need to be putting in. So i assume its a case of check the dip stick, yeah that is all fine and awesome etc etc, but it gets complicated. Do i have to stand the bike up level to check the oil level, obviously i will to drain the oil, but the dip stick is put in at an angel so is fairly level when the bike is on its stand so do i stand the bike up to check the level or do i leace it on its stand. Secondly, do i screw the dipstick all the way in, or just rest it on its threads? cheers folks Quote
2fast2soon Posted July 4, 2010 Posted July 4, 2010 If its a fairly modern (09 - 10) Daytona 675 then use the following (from my manual, I've got St3R so we share engines and manuals)Dry Fil: 3.0 litresOil/Filter Change (I.E. USE THIS ONE): 2.6 litresOil Change Only: 2.4 litresAccording to manual:Have engine run for about 5 minutes, turn off and leave for a further 3 minutes for oil to settle. Remove dipstick, wipe it clean then screw back in FULLY. Bike has to be upright (not on side stand).FYI: Oil filter tightened to 10Nm, Drain plug tightened to 25Nm. Use 10W/40 or 15W/50 semi or full synthetic that meets API SH (or higher) AND JASO MA.Start engine and allow to idle for 30 seconds, ensure engine oil pressure light turns off. Turn engine off and recheck oil level.I hope that helps (if not, don't tell me as I don't want to know I've wasted my time typing that up if you've got a 10+ year old daytona powered by 2 gerbils and a limp grey squirrel who's partial to walnut oil) Quote
Rik398 Posted July 4, 2010 Author Posted July 4, 2010 still at college so couldn really affor a brand new / 2009 daytona 675 im afraid. So i am on the 2004 600 model. I much appreciate your help and the efoort you have put in though. thanks Quote
j4ff Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 There is a bonus to having a dip stick over a sight glass where in my case i put a little bit too much in.Instead of undoing the sump plug and possibly having to replace the crush washer again you can simply put a tube into the dipstick opening and syphon out the excess.Most bikes are 10/40.Fully synthetic can cause clutch slippage.If this happens its not a case of just changing the oil as the clutch plates will be contaminated and will need replacing Quote
2fast2soon Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 Only a full synthetic with friction reducing properties will do that, i.e. car oil. A full synthetic motorbike specific oil will be fine. That's why Triumph mention it in their manuals. After some light reading, it appears that the important standard to look for is the JASO MA one, the API SH could also refer to cars. However JASO is specifically for bikes. So you shouldn't get clutch slippage with a JASO MA rated oil. Quote
Guest Posted July 5, 2010 Posted July 5, 2010 On my triumph, the oil capacity was stamped on the engine casing? Well, sump casing .. you know what I mean Quote
Guest Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 On my triumph, the oil capacity was stamped on the engine casing? Well, sump casing .. you know what I mean Sometimes there are 2 different fill levels, one for when you just drop the oil out and one for when you do the filter as well. This is for when you drop the oil out to work on the engine etc so you don't put too much back in as the filter holds oil as well. Quote
Rik398 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Posted July 7, 2010 Thank you folks, especially your pm 2fast2soon oil change is completed now. Only slight concern is the new filter i chose is slightly longer than my older one but it is apranatley for my bike and fits the threads with no leaks nicley so all is well. Used Castrol power racing 4t fully synthetic (it is bike specific) and no clutch issues to worry about so all seems well. think the old filter was on far too tight or has never been removed before though as it was a pain to get off but all done and well now thort i had better do it as it was over due and i go to full power as of TODAY Quote
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