Guest Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 HI i posted a few days back about a socket i need to undo the bolt holding the clutch pressure plate on. in the end i bought a socket but now iv found out the bolt will take 130nm of torque to remove and also that the clutch will spin by putting this much force on. iv watched loads of videos on youtube of changing the clutch and none of them say you need a clutch locking tool to stop the whole clutch spinning. having said that there bolts didnt look that tight. question is will be it possible to have someone else hold the clutch casing with both hands whilst this bolt is undone ?there also the option of putting the bike into gear and locking the back wheel with the brake but theres a chance i could damage the gearbox and would rather not do it this way.any other ways of doing this ?it seems the donuts who made this clutch just dont want people to remove it Quote
megawatt Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 I've never used a clutch locking tool. Have used the put in gear, foot on brake method many times and never broke a gearbox yet!!! Quote
Guest Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 ah ok might do that then.thing is from what iv watched on youtube most clutches dont have a really tight castle nut to undolook http://www.hondaofbournemouth.co.uk/pro ... -4226.aspxthis is the clutch diagram and the castle nut is number 15 in the picture. apparently this nut has to be removed Quote
megawatt Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 Depending on which direction the clutch normally spins, it could have a left hand thread. I used to loosen mine with a brass bar and a sharp tap with a hammer, same to tighten it! Quote
Guest Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 We always used a clutch locking tool at college, but in the real world no idea! Just be careful!! Quote
megawatt Posted February 19, 2011 Posted February 19, 2011 If you can buy an old steel and friction plate , you can rivet the two together. Add a cranked handle and you have a locking tool. Personally I've never needed one, and I've stripped a lot of engines!!! Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 megawatt if you havent need one them i doubt i will will probably stick in first gear and apply the back brake.i have just found there is another way something to do with putting a spanner somewhere which doesent put stress on the gearbox Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 I wouldn't worry about stressing the gearbox mate, it can take it, no problem Quote
DG Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 You don't need the locking tool, don't put the bike in first though put it in the highest gear 5th or 6th and get a pal to sit on the bike and press the rear brake. It'll be fine mate. Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 my bike sits in neutrel when engine is off and when i try to go onto first with the engine of it wont go in. i think it will go into 2nd.once the engine is running it will go into 3rd but no higher. how am i going to get it into 6th ? Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Can you get the back wheel off the ground safely? Turn it in the normal direction while shifting up through the box. Or, rock the bike backwards and forwards whilst lifting the gear lever up with your foot or hand. Easy Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 yeah i have a paddock stand. i probably just rock the bike back and forth first to see if that works.another thing i was going to ask is it ok to put the bike on the paddock stand to drain the oil/work on the clutch as its easier with it being straight up instead of on the side stand ?is there less stress with it being in 6th gear ? Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Yes mate, You will need to apply more pressure to the footbrake, but you can do it on the paddock stand. Have a mate apply the rear brake, while it's in a high gear and use a brass drift touching the castle nut, give it one or two sharp taps with a lump hammer and that should do it! Don't let the drift miss the nut or it could get expensive Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 i have ordered a proper castle socket of ebay to attach to my 1/2 ratchet. if the nut wont come of can i stand on the ratchet ? yet another question can i soak my new friction plates in the engine oil thats in my bike now ?just a pain having to open the new oil as i only have enough to fill the bike (just) Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 It's better if you shock the nut loose , but you can try. If you are using semi or mineral oil soak em. I wouldn't use fully synth , unless that's what's recommended for your engine? Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 im using semi synthetic castrol oil but i would prefer to soak the plates in the old engine oil i will be draining. just wondering if its ok to do this ? Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 noooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Soak the friction plates in the fresh oil they will be running in. Have you checked that the steels are flat and not dished? Are they new? Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 not replacing the steel plates bike only 2 and a half years oldok will soak in new engine oil as long as its ok to put the oil that they have been soaking in into the engine ?the old engine oil is exactly the same brand and viscosity as the new stuff i have Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 The old oil still has the bits of old friction plates suspended in it! Why are you replacing them, coz they're worn???? Ergo, throw oil and old friction plates away and start with new. Why are you replacing the friction plates on a 2 1/2 year old engine? Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 clutch slips. have tried adjusting the clutch cable a number of times and still slips.ok il soak the new friction plates in new oil and once plates are fitted i will use the oil i soaked them in the engine Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Yeah that's good. Check your steel plates. If they overheat when slipping they can dish. Put em on a flat surface, sheet of glass or worktop and see if you can get a feeler gauge, piece of paper, under em, one at a time. If you can't, turn em over and try again. If not totally flat, they will need surface grinding or replacing. New friction plates no good with dished steels Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 ok will check the steel plates aswell hoping they dont need replacing though thanks Quote
megawatt Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 Happy to help, find an engineering place with a magnetic surface grinder if you can't afford new ones. Quote
Guest Posted February 20, 2011 Posted February 20, 2011 if there burnt or warped il just replace them Quote
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