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TuneEcu


Aaron
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I just hooked my Daytona up to the laptop and disabled my air intake flap and exhaust valve, and cleared out the engine warning errors (caused because I physically removed the mechanism a few months ago).


Just thought I'd mention it because it was easy-peasy and I'd been delaying it for months through fear of fecking something up.

I removed the fuse for my headlights first, like the instructions suggested, and the battery only dropped 0.1 volt during the whole thing (i dunno if volts are hwat matters or not?).

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You will be re-mapping the ECU in no time mate, Tuneboy and TuneECU are really common tools for Triumphs and there are loads of good ECU maps available online.


One of the joys of owning a Triumph, no need for power commanders as the ECU's are fully reprogrammable !!!

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Good job there Aaron.


There's a good video on youTube on using the TuneECU programme.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hE2GnnqWWE


I'm just investigating this for low speed surging on my Speed Four.....and maybe have a look at a few other things on there too.


I was looking at TuneBoy....which is running at around $500AUD....when I stumbled on TuneECU which is FREE. Ordered a cable on eBay for £10....so when that arrives I'll be trying this out and hopefully not banjaxing the whole thing.. :wink:


Bob

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Good job there Aaron.


There's a good video on youTube on using the TuneECU programme.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hE2GnnqWWE


I'm just investigating this for low speed surging on my Speed Four.....and maybe have a look at a few other things on there too.


I was looking at TuneBoy....which is running at around $500AUD....when I stumbled on TuneECU which is FREE. Ordered a cable on eBay for £10....so when that arrives I'll be trying this out and hopefully not banjaxing the whole thing.. :wink:


Bob

 


Just remember to save your current map first! and also make sure the battery is well charged and headlight fuse removed.

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Thanks for the advice mate.....will do. Although I have an older bike with a headlight switch so I can turn them off. I'm guessing that this needs to be done just so the battery doesn't drain during the process?


Cheers


Bob

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Thanks for the advice mate.....will do. Although I have an older bike with a headlight switch so I can turn them off. I'm guessing that this needs to be done just so the battery doesn't drain during the process?


Cheers


Bob

 


Yeah. Supposedly if it runs out half way through you're fecked. I'm not sure it was entirly nessecary, but its a precaution. Perhaps if my battery was in poorer condition it would be more important.

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you will be surprised at how quick a bike battery will go flat with the headlight left on :shock:


mine went in ten minutes not completly flat but not enough in it to start the bike :?

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Easy calculation


Watts divided by voltage gives amps


55w headlight divided by 12v = 4.6amps


Battery output is measured in amp hours.


So 4.6 amps with a 5amp/hour battery will drain everything the battery has in just over an hour. (in theory)


In practice it will appear flat much sooner but will recover slightly if left standing with no load 8-)

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