Changing brake fluid front and rear - big job?

[XmisterIS]

I know how it is done in theory, but is it a big and laborious job? How easy is it to cock it up and have to start all over again? (e.g. getting air bubbles into the system by mistake).

[megawatt]

Dead easy,put it in at master cylinder end and remove it at each caliper end. Only crack open bleed nipples and put a bit of grease around threads where they screw into caliper.Put a clear tube over end of caliper bleed nipple into a small glass jar, when you see clear fluid come out of tube, close nipple and do other one.

[XmisterIS]

Well, when you put it like that ... I might as well have a go! I will look on youtube for videos too, they're always helpful.

And when you say "seeing clear fluid come out", do you mean that to start with I'll see the old discoloured fluid first as the system flushes through, then the new, clear fluid?

[Colin the Bear]

Use brand new unopened fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It absorbs water from the atmosphere.

However this is not as bad as having a big job in your brake system. How on earth did it get in there?

[megawatt]

Yeah, what Colin said. When you bleed out the old fluid it will be milky and creamy/yellowish. The new fluid will be clear.

[Ingah]

It's much easier with a cheap one-man brake bleeding kit (used correctly, that is - first time i tried to use one i couldn't work it out and so ended up cutting the end off and doing it the "old fashioned" way )

[Stu]

I find the old fashion way is best

Easier with two people too pump lever hold on release the bleed nipple close nipple then pump back up remember to hold th lever back till the nipple is closed again

I find this the best way as bleed nipples can let air in from around the threads hence megas tip on the grease around the nipple but it doesn't always do the job

[Fozzie]

I use a one way valve, hold a tube connected to it tight around the bleed nipple and fasten it on tight.

I then undo the nipple and pump away as the one way valve stops it being able to draw air back in. I go back to the open, pump and hold, close, let go and repeat when I get close to the end. Just to be safe

But otherwise do what is said here

I replaced clutch fluid and front and back brake fluid inside 30 minutes with my technique and the bike works as it should with nice firm brakes and a healthy hydraulic clutch

[XmisterIS]

Just a thought here, but Haynes reckons that brake line should be changed once every four years.

I currently have the original lines fitted and the bike is four years old.

If I do change them (which I am inclined to do - better safe than sorry, I think), what are the benefits of upgrading to braided steel lines? Never need to change them again? And what about brand? Are "hel" any good? There's a company found by Google that can supply Hel lines in any colour I like, just over £100 for the whole lot - if you want to find them search for "SV650 brake line kit" - they are the first link that comes up and they specialise in nothing but brake lines and clutch lines.

[Ingah]

Just a thought here, but Haynes reckons that brake line should be changed once every four years. Same in my Haynes for my bike.

I currently have the original lines fitted and the bike is four years old.

If I do change them (which I am inclined to do - better safe than sorry, I think), what are the benefits of upgrading to braided steel lines? Never need to change them again? Yes and no, they still should be checked for deterioriotion and fasteners loosening etc - if you "forget about them" then one day they could fail - but they should last longer than 4 years! And what about brand? Are "hel" any good? I think they are, yes. I had Goodridge, also a known good brand There's a company found by Google that can supply Hel lines in any colour I like, just over £100 for the whole lot - if you want to find them search for "SV650 brake line kit" - they are the first link that comes up and they specialise in nothing but brake lines and clutch lines.