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Posted

Yep im going to have ago.


I have a YBR 125 2006. I almost always have to have the choke on in the morning to help the bike warm up, and switch off before i ride off. Now i find my bike is more responsive when it has a full tank, when im on 1/4 it struggles to start. I assumed its because the tank was near empty, but a work college has recommended i clean my carburetor out. I just want my bike to be more responsive in the mornings :)


I have my Haynes manual and ive getting to know my bike more and more. Replaced a few parts like indicators, chain guard, mirrors, twisted the forks back into place after a fall, and of course cleaned him right up to make him look new :) so im not scared to get my hands dirty.


Now is this a big undertaking? or is it possible for little old me to do? or if its even worth doing. i did have it serviced a few months ago, not sure if it was included. Didn't really feel different after the service...

Posted

check if it's got an inline filter first, it may just need a new one. They will definitely restrict the engine from revving if it's blocked up. Full tank may just be pushing a bit more fuel through than a nearly empty tank.

Posted

A carb clean will never hurt, but afterwards it's important to set your fueling up correctly, the enhanced flow and hopefully improved atomization will result in a richer burn and reduced power and response. If you can start your engine without choke I would sugest you have a problem, the choke is designed to do what it says on the tin and 'choke' the air flow resulting in a richer mixture for cold running, this will result in a loss of power, ecconomy and response.


Fuel too lean = more power and more heat in the burn causing detonation and leading to melted valves/pistons....

Too rich = less power, less ecconomy, poor throttle response and control, a cold burn causing heavy thick exhaust gas and lots of unburned hydrocarbons, this will slowly clog the internals of the engine. Excessive fueling can also cause bore wash of the engine due to oil being compromised and 'washed' from the bores, that in turn removes honing marks making things even worse...... Around we go.


Good fueling is important! Get it wrong and you can loose lots of power and a simple sports exhaust can't compensate for that :)


Btw, every air filter, exhaust, carb.... Change should be followed by a fueling check, of you don't power will drop as the burn moves away from perfect.



So yes it's good to clean the carb but know why you're doing it, don't just do it cus some bloke said its a good idea.

Posted

Well done for doing your own maintenance :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Before you remove the carb, empty the fuel tank contents into a fuel can, remove tank and remove fuel tap. There is usually a tubular mesh filter attached to the fuel tap, inside the tank. Give it a clean with brake cleaner and stip , clean and rebuild the tap. Sometimes the diaphragm in the tap can be damaged and not give full fuel flow. When fuel tap rebuilt, slosh a bit of fuel around the tank and drain it into a container with a tissue and funnel to see if there are any bits in the tank. Put the fuel tap back on and refit the tank, taking care not to trap any breathers or vacuum pipes under it. Check for an extra in -line fuel filter , clean it etc, replace and then try the bike.

If no change, remove carb, disconnect throttle and choke cables. Check pilot jet setting before removing, then strip all items out of carb, clean with carb or brake cleaner or in a ultrasonic bath, blow through all fuel and air ways, then carefully rebuild.

Good luck, Alan.

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