Master Cylinder Screws

[Dynamo_Delboy]

So, im about to service my bike & gonna top up the brake fluid in the front master cylinder.

The problem is.... The screws have rounded as they must be very old (obviously never changed by previous owner).

So my problem is, how do i get the feckers out?

Dont want to go and buy a new master cylinder.

Any help would be great thanks

[ApolloMozart]

this may help - Damaged Screw Remover Set - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trend-GRABSE1SE-Damaged-Screw-Remover/dp/B000X2GMXY/

[Tango]

Drill the heads off the screws and get some new ones.....or try to cut a slot in the heads of the screws so you can get a flat blade driver into them......

[Dynamo_Delboy]

They're sunk below the gap Tango so cant get anything in to cut it straight across for a flat head. That was my original plan

Thanks apollo, may need to get that for myself.

Thanks for the reply guys

[acting_strange]

Of course if it was me I would get a small centre punch and light hammer and try to tap them round until I could get them out....usually works for me...

[Dynamo_Delboy]

Well i finally managed to get the screws out and new ones in along with a wee top up of brake fluid.

What i have now noticed is that when i pull the front brake i seem to have a leak of break fluid between the master cylinder and where the brake lines connect to it. Looks like theres a washer between them. Could that be worn and causing the leak?

Thanks again for the help

[Chrissb6]

Your correct there are washers there, try nipping them up first without stripping threads. I would say that if you think the fluid has not been checked for ages as the filler screws seem to suggest. Then better you flush, refill and bleed the whole system. A top up is not really the way to go, there's old oil still in the callipers.

[Tango]

You may need to replace the washers mate......it's always recommended if you undo the banjo's.....

[Stu]

something I learnt not so long back

you dont have to replace the copper washers you can heat them up till they glow red and drop them in water to cool them and they are good to go again

just for any cheapskates out there

but as said try and nip the banjo bolt up a tad if no joy replace the washers

and also replace the fluid while your at it as chris says although I would drain the system I would just flush new fluid through this saves getting any air in the system and struggling to get it out

[Chrissb6]

something I learnt not so long back

you dont have to replace the copper washers you can heat them up till they glow red and drop them in water to cool them and they are good to go again

just for any cheapskates out there

but as said try and nip the banjo bolt up a tad if no joy replace the washers

and also replace the fluid while your at it as chris says although I would drain the system I would just flush new fluid through this saves getting any air in the system and struggling to get it out

Agree Stu, flush through with new oil not an agent. I would of thought that all the hammering and banging trying to get the screws out has cracked a joint. A tiny spot of copper slip on the screws for the the filler cap will prevent a reoccurrence of the seized screws

[Stu]

A tiny spot of copper slip on the screws for the the filler cap will prevent a reoccurrence of the seized screws

 

or regular fluid checks

[Chrissb6]

A tiny spot of copper slip on the screws for the the filler cap will prevent a reoccurrence of the seized screws

 

or regular fluid checks

yes lol

[Dynamo_Delboy]

Magic lads. Thanks for the advice.

Think i might just flush the system and run new fluid through it.

[eastanglianbiker]

stu i used to run a yam xt500 with loads of engine work done to it making it almost race spec and that used copper head gasket u heated that up in oven untill it had rainbow effect when running a match stick over it then cooled rapidly then reused it i refitted it at least 8 times that i can remember without any problems