Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Ok folks, this is beginning to become a bit of a problem so needs fixing...Firstly, the engine takes an abnormal amount of time to warm up (as in way too fast). Second thing to note is... the temperature guage appears to have an intermittent mind of it's own! It will go from 93 - 102 - 95 - 101 etc all within a few seconds of each other. This leads me to believe it may be electrical related rather than mechanical...Ok so the big problem is, sometimes, when idling, the engine temp reaches 117 degress (which is the when the flashing red light comes on). I keep a constant eye on the engine temp and when working normally, it would get to 109 and then go down. After my crash I saw increases in this temperature - it would go to 110, 111, 112 etc. It also runs a bit hotter than usual. This combined with the fast time to reach operating temp would point to a faulty thermostat as a first guess... It has a new rad, albeit not OEM. Twice flushed system with the correct mixture, fans are working at the normal temps, overheating only occurs when idling. Often I can hear the coolant in the reservoir boiling over...What do you reckon people? Give the sensor a clean and test the thermostat? Anything else? Quote
RantMachine Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Is the fan kicking in ok? Do you know what temperature it's meant to start at? Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Is the fan kicking in ok? Do you know what temperature it's meant to start at?Yes; fans are working at the normal temps Quote
RantMachine Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Hmm, not quite sure how I managed to skim read past that Quote
fq-craigus Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Temp sensor first buddy, swap it out and go from there it sounds electrical like you say, then get more in depth with thermostat ect. You want to check plugs ect first as one may have become damaged in the accident or not plugged in correct when rebuilding. Or if you have a manual temp gauge you could try plumbing that inline to compare with electric one Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Temp sensor first buddy, swap it out and go from there it sounds electrical like you say, then get more in depth with thermostat ect. You want to check plugs ect first as one may have become damaged in the accident or not plugged in correct when rebuilding. Or if you have a manual temp gauge you could try plumbing that inline to compare with electric oneOk, I'll give it a good cleaning later, see it that helps. Plugs and oil were all changed during repair. Quote
fq-craigus Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Temp sensor first buddy, swap it out and go from there it sounds electrical like you say, then get more in depth with thermostat ect. You want to check plugs ect first as one may have become damaged in the accident or not plugged in correct when rebuilding. Or if you have a manual temp gauge you could try plumbing that inline to compare with electric oneOk, I'll give it a good cleaning later, see it that helps. Plugs and oil were all changed during repair. i meant plugs as in for the electrical connections to sensors lol my bad Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Temp sensor first buddy, swap it out and go from there it sounds electrical like you say, then get more in depth with thermostat ect. You want to check plugs ect first as one may have become damaged in the accident or not plugged in correct when rebuilding. Or if you have a manual temp gauge you could try plumbing that inline to compare with electric oneOk, I'll give it a good cleaning later, see it that helps. Plugs and oil were all changed during repair. i meant plugs as in for the electrical connections to sensors lol my badAh! Yes ok... I'll take a look, possibly Saturday due to it being a bit more complicated than originally thought. Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Just looked in the service manual... it would give me an error code 21 if it was the coolant temp sensor... 21Coolant temperaturesensorCoolant temperature sensor-openor short circuit detected.Able Able EDIT* - After further reading... the R1 has a diagnostics mode which I can check the sensor from. I'll do that Saturday! Quote
RantMachine Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 God damn it man, since the rally I can't read one of your threads without getting "It Wasn't Me" stuck in my head Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 God damn it man, since the rally I can't read one of your threads without getting "It Wasn't Me" stuck in my head Quote
Tango Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Engine running a bit lean with the new cans? My Speedy is running a touch hotter after I put a K&N air filter on the bike.......needs a bit of dyno time I think...... Quote
Stu Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 at what temp does the fan cut in? or supposed to cut in? Quote
Tango Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Electrical tape is the answer.................stick a bit over the temp readout....... If the expansion tank is boiling over, then it's not likely to be an electrical issue.......unless the fans are not cutting in or running fast enough intermittently........or the thermostat is sticking........or you've got an airlock in the water jacket...... Quote
Matt Strange Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 I would check the coolant pump impeller if you haven't already, the crash may have damaged it. Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Fans kick in religously at 106. Come off at 103. Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Oh and it's just been remapped with a PC3 which increases most of the fueling 91st different RPMs. Spots flames and stinks of petrol when it does so def not a lean issue. Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 and it still keeps climbing to 117?Yep. Why I'm thinking either a sensor issue or water not circulating but the fact that the water boils suggests it is getting very hot.... Quote
Stu Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 take the rad cap off and start the bike from idle give it a few sharp revs if you see the coolant level drop slightly then raise back up then coolant is circulating next I would change the stat out of course its cheap and easy and flush the system while you are at it check all wiring usually sensors either work of they dont and very rarely fail the sensors would be my last resort Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Ok. Will do... Saturday.How do you explain the weird readings though??? Quote
Stu Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 it might not be weird but paranoia you may be over thinking it and watching it more than normal I have seen temps jump and drop rather quickly Quote
Guest Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Could be... But on my way home from work tonight it went from 96 - 103 - 95 - 105.... Quote
Fozzie Posted August 26, 2015 Posted August 26, 2015 Just to throw this in there, I've used a non-OEM rad and suffered overheating on a CBR600 before. It was ok when being ridden, but the moment it stopped it didn't have the efficiency of the previous rad to cool itself. Those fins dissipate heat and if they aren't as good a material as the original, they will not do it as well.The sporadic change in temperature is ok so long as it falls a degree or two at a time down, and then again up. As it's measuring the coolant temp. Many sensors on bikes have dampeners so they read 75 degrees when in actual fact, due to the thermostat opening and closing it's bouncing between 75 and 80. My old SV used to climb to 90 degrees, then gradually fall to 80 degrees, and begin climbing again throughout the ride, in roughly 15-20 second cycles. My Hondas however told porkies and would seem to stay at 77 forever when you were riding, then suddenly start rising when the coolant got past a certain point.You probably have a buggered pump, or a inefficient rad. Or both!Swap out the coolant to "engine ice", it's american stuff and made for their climate if you want added performance. You have to clean the system out first before you put it in but it stops my Yammie being a pig. As you stop on that at the lights and it goes from 77 to 106 degrees in less than a minute. And apparently that's all normal as it only has a 2.6 litre oil capacity being an R6 engine.Keep an eye out on ebay for an OEM rad. Or an R1 that is being broken. Quote
Guest Posted August 26, 2015 Posted August 26, 2015 This has been at the back of my mind since riding it on the new rad... Seems to run hotter than OEM anyway.I thought it as all the same stuff/material but I guess not... Possibly the rad is the issue and this is a Chinese part too far lol. Quote
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