RantMachine Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Hah! Picking it up on the 2nd of March, they already had 51 people coming in on the 1st to collect new bikes so I figured that maybe I could wait one more day Amusing as an escort sounds, I reckon I'll be ok tPIC, I hope your experience of them is significantly better than mine! I still think they're actually pretty nice bikes, just not when they've been run into the ground by the previous owner and you spend the whole time fixing them up I tell you what though, it's crazy how much cheaper the aftermarket parts are for a Kawasaki... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe85 Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I stuck to the manufacturers guidance of keeping it below 5000 revs and occasionally gave it a blast. Also tried to vary the revs as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel Rach Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Congratulations on the new bike. I'm glad you decided not to make the purchase from Peterborough!! As for running in I would follow the manufacturers guidance. In my experience it's painful but why risk it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fq-craigus Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Vary the revs find a long hill and labour a bit up it you can open it up a bit but dont hold it too long. The data of revs ect isnt stored in the ecu, it would be full in no time and need clearing every 6 months if that were the case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks again for all the continued advice! Really appreciate getting everyone's thoughts on it.Rach - yeah, I ran a mile after your warnings about them! Already know what it's like to have a crappy and unreliable stealership, don't care to do it again. And I have to admit that being addressed as "young man" every time I called did not make a good impression on me. Colchester on the other hand have been bloody awesome so far, really helpful and enthusiastic. That's how a salesperson should be, in my books - if (in my past life of retail management) I'd employed someone like the bloke at wheels, he would've had a regular shouting at in the stock room But the Colchester lot seem just like the kind of people I liked to hire. It's hard to fake selling with enthusiasm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bogof Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 In fact, I've only really seen that said once; Kawasaki themselves Since Kawasaki designed it, manufactured it, and indirectly sold it to you, my view is that it would be daft to ignore them at this stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fozzie Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Late to this party! I actually have useful input for a change I'm not being aggravating here but people who feel they have to follow a book to the letter is who those books are for, this applies to people who are new to the subject too.When I bought my YZF-R125 new, I asked about the 6000rpm limit. I was told to stick to it until warm and then ride as usual, but don’t go screaming it around. Just be more smooth and gentle.I was and never had issues. Same when I bought my ER6F new, I asked about the 4000rpm limit and got told by someone who claimed to have 30 years experience including building engines for BSB that the limit was there as a guide for dummies (his words not mine). And that it considers all things, like limiting you from ragging it on new tyres, new unfamiliar suspension, and if there was an issue with the build that occurred at speed when they didn’t advise you otherwise then they face a law suit. He said scrub in the tyres, and if it’s warm ride it as usual, but no sudden harsh throttle twists, or loading the engine. That way if there is something wrong it doesn’t let go violently. This was echoed by an engine and frame engineer working at Triumph.I have researched this issue as I was a “follow the book” kinda chap at first, because I don’t trust hearsay much. But some even advocate the hard break in, warming up the engine then deliberately building up to full throttle and high revs in each gear to treat the engines to varying loads.I have not had an issue, nor have I ever known of one. There is stuff claiming soft/hard break in ruined their bike but nothing conclusive so I fall back on good old fashioned physics and material science, and all I find there is damage can occur if the engine is cold and harshly treated. There is a degree of work hardening in engines, but 80-90% of that process has occurred at the test stage in the factory. All of the bearings, and shafts carried expand and contract together.Just remember that an engine these days is built to tight tolerances, and in most cases is run at the factory at all kinds of loads/throttle settings to test the engine before it ships. They don’t want to risk you having a first start up being greeted by a scraping noise of a mis-it piston against the bore. What do I suggest? Treat it nice for a couple of rides as you get used to it, but when it’s warm don’t be afraid to rev it if you have to. And after a few rides, just warm up and ride it normally. Just don’t take the piss, build up the throttle smoothly, build up the revs and keep it where it feels happy to cruise. I wouldn’t think what you’re doing is wrong if you decide to do it by the book. I just don’t think what I suggest is wrong either due to experience, and the others educated in the field not expressing any concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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