Grandads Mug Posted March 16 Posted March 16 We recently purchased a Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200, 2012 model. Two up and the suspension feels soft, it's not as sharp coming out of bends as I would like, it just doesn't pick it self up as I think it ought. (tyre profile is good) No problem I thought, I'll adjust the preload via the knob that sticks out on the right hand side, except that it is seized solid, it just won't turn and I don't want to start getting grips to it for fear of something snapping. Any ideas what could cause this? Quote
V650 Posted March 16 Posted March 16 Different bike but Might be worth a look No guarantees though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8uR_7WjynA Quote
Fiddlesticks Posted March 17 Posted March 17 Mine did the same - it didn't last too long after that. Options I found for replacement: £833 - Original Part T2058500 £562 - YSS Mz456-375Hr-13 £575 / £391 Hagon M66022H (with or without remote preload adjuster). £390 - Shock Factory M-Shock from bikerevival. £628 - YSS MX456 £566 - Wilbers 640 No longer available - Nitron R1 €700/€475 - Hyperpro (with/without remote adjuster) Went with the Shock Factory. It's fully adjustable, but has a spanner (supplied), rather than a remote adjuster. They asked our combined weight and type of riding, but it seemed quite soft when I got it on the bike, so tightened it up with the C Spanner a fair bit. Has been fine for 16,200 miles. 1 Quote
Fiddlesticks Posted March 17 Posted March 17 Another option Maxton NR4 (£?) or rebuild/refurbish the existing one. (£?) Quote
RideWithStyles Posted March 17 Posted March 17 (edited) The adjuster can seize or if the small indent/sim just jams- depends if its a “clicker or a smooth type) the other if the hydraulic collar on the shock have seized. Problem being is two things it could be very simple as the indent or thread is seized so to take the cap off (will be a screw holding it on) and spray some wd40 and see it that helps. if its much more like the collar or adjuster then it requires more specialty tools (or proper sketchy diy ones) and consumerables too do the job. Just a question, before messing with the preload have you adjusted any rebound or compression setting? If it has any of these adjustments they can help immensely. the preload doesn’t make it firmer in a sense, just moves the setter/start point of spring/shock within a range of adjustment. so even if the spring is seating on the very top of adjustment all you might be doing is creating a Pogo stick and not a damper. If the settings are soft it will still sag to the bottom as it did but the difference will be that it will shoot back up and smack your arses, lifting to a extent the rear wheel away from the tarmac as its not being controlled- so giving you a hard time and the tyre too because it’s too busy flapping about. as a general rule: if you need to adjust the preload you’ll most likely/should need to adjust something else if possible too (depending on what a setting is at and doing for a particular situation) as doing one thing normally make another aspect out of balance. Edited March 17 by RideWithStyles Autocorrect 1 Quote
Grandads Mug Posted March 17 Author Posted March 17 Thanks for the replies gents. Plenty to think about there! 2 Quote
Fiddlesticks Posted March 17 Posted March 17 If you do go with the replacement option, a bearing press may be required... 1 2 Quote
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