Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 Hi,i need to find out what ampage the wiring from generator to the rectifier is anyone any ideas?the wiring from the reg/rec has burnt out down to where it joins under the seat.thanks Quote
slugworth1987 Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 Reg to Alt is a 3 phase AC system and will vary considerbly i would sugest a high amp wire (12-14 gauge) copper core with double insulation.unfortunatly i can not say for defonat but to play it safe use housing earth wire should do the trick Quote
Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 well i havent the foggiest idea lol so any advice is welcomed. i almost purchased 8 gauge thinking this looked about the same size from memory but wasnt so sure so i left it. is there any adverse affects by using the wrong one ie too low it will bur out and too high will damage parts i assume?is there a way to find out, i have the haynes manual here but unable to find this info unless i looking in the wrong place Quote
slugworth1987 Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 (edited) to large wont fit in the crimps and increase of resistance so may not offer full power to the reg, to small/lo amp will cause the wire to overheat and melt, could cause alot of damage to the alt if wires melt together or the reg/rec my advice will be to ring honda see what they recommend i would recommend aircraft spec wire if you can get hold of it will last longer under outside conditionswhat year and model is the CBR? Edited March 24, 2009 by slugworth1987 Quote
Stu Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 have you looked at whats causing the wires to burn first ? Quote
Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 well i havent the foggiest idea lol so any advice is welcomed. i almost purchased 8 gauge thinking this looked about the same size from memory but wasnt so sure so i left it. is there any adverse affects by using the wrong one ie too low it will bur out and too high will damage parts i assume?is there a way to find out, i have the haynes manual here but unable to find this info unless i looking in the wrong placeUsing thin wire will cause problems and it will possibly melt, however using thicker wire should have no adverse effects, Halfords do a 27Amp cable which is described as "Charging Cable for battery feed and ammeter circuits." and comes with the following warning"Warnings! Always use cable heavier than the maximum loading. If in doubt consult a qualified auto electrician."http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... pag%7C%7C3Just so you know, i run 8 guage to power a sub and amp combination in my car, so its probably overkill for your needs..the lower the number the thicker the wire, 0 guage is about the size of your pinky finger Quote
Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 good advice, bike is a 96 reg cbr600 ft i have gone through 2 reg recs prevous to this one but i think its something to do with the frozen weather we had on the occasions the recs went and always after we had ice and then shortly after it cleared up i would take it out to find the battery going dead. now i noticed that a previous owner soldered the joints from the generator to the under of the seat to the reg/rec so i have broken that joint and used a proper jointing block now, i test the reg/rec on the test diode function and get no reply on the 3 yellow terminals i think the guide says thats wrong so maye this is gone. I think the times where the reg rec was replaced i ignored the state of the connector and the wires may have burnt out then but i guess for overlooking checking the cables i deserve this to happen i might get that cabl from halfords then and see how that goesa friend suggested the generator may need replacing Quote
Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 good advice, bike is a 96 reg cbr600 ft i have gone through 2 reg recs prevous to this one but i think its something to do with the frozen weather we had on the occasions the recs went and always after we had ice and then shortly after it cleared up i would take it out to find the battery going dead. now i noticed that a previous owner soldered the joints from the generator to the under of the seat to the reg/rec so i have broken that joint and used a proper jointing block now, i test the reg/rec on the test diode function and get no reply on the 3 yellow terminals i think the guide says thats wrong so maye this is gone. I think the times where the reg rec was replaced i ignored the state of the connector and the wires may have burnt out then but i guess for overlooking checking the cables i deserve this to happen i might get that cabl from halfords then and see how that goesa friend suggested the generator may need replacing you may have developed a short and fried the thing.. from your dodgy connections..however, I know with old suzukis especially the GS range (Katana) that the Reg/Rec were S*** and often replaced with non GS/suzuki replacements, the general advice was to keep lights on to stop it blowing.. so if you have had manufacturer replacements then try non original equipment.. Quote
Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 hi yes they have always been genuine replacements an i have heard they were dodgy anyhow.mine is a california spec so the lights are on all the time anyone they can only be turned off by removing the fuse. :-/ so this never helped me lol Quote
slugworth1987 Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HONDA-CBR600-GENE ... 240%3A1318a gennyhttp://shop.wemoto.com/pictures.dyn?u=25348qqq5828142and another Quote
Stu Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 i would be looking at the genny to be honest seams a bit odd for it to blow a few reg/recs the dodgey conection wouldnt have helped though Quote
slugworth1987 Posted March 24, 2009 Posted March 24, 2009 new genny would be the best thing to do if you have a new reg/rec and genny theres nothing to go wrong lol its an easy replacement but remember ull need a new gasket also Quote
Guest Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 Hi,After not realising i had to drain the oil to get the genny out i managaed to get it out without getting oil everywhere b4 i realised lol. anything i can do visibly to see if faulty? are the wires coming form genny to reg/rec meant to be silver or copper wiring?thanks Quote
Guest Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 copper are you sure that the generator is u/s, not the rectifier thats bust.. i would suspect that if it has fried then there will be some scorching or melted windings.. Quote
Guest Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 have a read of this..http://www.northukbikers-videos.co.uk/d ... 120432048/ Quote
Guest Posted March 27, 2009 Posted March 27, 2009 i know this relates to the suzuki Gs, but the method/ electrickery is the same..http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm Quote
Guest Posted March 28, 2009 Posted March 28, 2009 hi, what do you mean by u/s ? the wires for my generator to middle in bike are silver in colour and seem to be copper inside i think anyways. the reg rec wires to middle of bike are copper.reg rec has a blackend terminal by the looks of it, previous reg recs that went the wires were melted at the reg rec end so i guess that this would be a problem with the earthing as the yellow wires were melted and the red and green were ok. (green being earth) (red going to battery)generator seems to be yellow windings and look brown in areas as if there as been heat applied or oil discolouration etc but not visual damage or meltingthanks for link Quote
Guest Posted March 29, 2009 Posted March 29, 2009 hi, what do you mean by u/s ? U/S = UnServiceablethe wires for my generator to middle in bike are silver in colour and seem to be copper inside i think anyways. the reg rec wires to middle of bike are copper.reg rec has a blackend terminal by the looks of it, previous reg recs that went the wires were melted at the reg rec end so i guess that this would be a problem with the earthing as the yellow wires were melted and the red and green were ok. (green being earth) (red going to battery)this is your problemgenerator seems to be yellow windings and look brown in areas as if there as been heat applied or oil discolouration etc but not visual damage or meltingcould just be age, thanks for link Quote
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