NewToN

Hope you did the tyres Phil. 10 years is outside of all recommendations. Even if the tread looks OK the rubber can separate from the metal cords and the plies inside the tyre (delamination) which isn't usually visible externally.

Refreshing the suspension makes a massive difference to an older bike especially if it hasn't been touched since it was manufactured. Starting with the front forks first stick a tie-wrap around one of the stanchions. Determine topped out position (wheel off ground), then how much it compresses under it's own weight (static sag) and how much it compresses with you sitting on it (rider sag). Also leave the tie-wrap on and go for a ride at you usual speed include some bumpy roads and some reasonably hard front wheel braking. When you get back see how much of the total travel you have used. The rider sag and the travel will indicate whether you need different springs to suit you weight/riding style. I would suggest to strip the forks first. If the oil is really old (dirty and smelly) you need a full strip and clean and probably new bushes too. However assess the bushes based on wear (they change colour as the anti-friction coating wears away). You need to look at the stanchions to see if they are pitted (bad pitting will mess up new seals and bushes) and if so either replace or re-chrome them. When you put them back together new oil will significantly change how they feel if the old oil was in bad condition. So its not always easy to judge what to use as new will feel different to old. Initially go with manufacturers recommendation (if available) otherwise choose an oil with the same viscosity (like 37cSt at 40degC) not one with the same nominal weight (like 10W). For seals and bushes I find All Balls Racing kits to be good value for money. While you have the forks out disassemble the steering head bearings. If they are undamaged then regrease and preload them. If they are original they will almost certainly need replacing. At the rear I think the GSX750F has a linkage similar to the Bandit in which case the rocker arm bearings may be corroded/seized (assuming no previous maintenance). You will need to replace the needle roller bearings and the pins/rings that run in them if they are grooved/corroded. It's worth taking the swingarm off to check the bearings if only to regrease them if in good condition (like steering head). If you are replacing the rear shock it will make a huge difference but be aware of the different types. All are gas pressurised these days but it is done in different ways at different price points; emulsion (where oil and gas are mixed), a bladder (gas in bladder not mixed with oil), a floating piston (gas separated from oil with a floating piston). Bladder and floating piston types sometimes also use a separate canister. Examples: emulsion - YSS and Hagon, bladder - M Shock, floating piston - Nitron. In addition to those you listed I suggest to consider the M-Shock (google Shock Factory UK).

Just found the site after a search for reviews of the Suzuki GSX-S1000GT (under Motorbike News) and decided to join. I currently have 2 bikes and am looking at replacing these with one for the future and the Suzuki is an option I am considering. I've been riding for many years, previously ran the local branch of the Suzuki Owners Club, and I am an Advanced Rider.