Mrbarry

Could be a million things, as said unless its almost free then walk away. If something seems too good to be true then inevitably it normaly is! It sounds fuel related and could just be running rich, but if it's been rich for long the bores will be trashed anyway so still walk unless you compression test it first (when hot) Could also be many other things.

Depends who puts it on the engine.... I've seen some crazy stunts in my time!

A carb clean will never hurt, but afterwards it's important to set your fueling up correctly, the enhanced flow and hopefully improved atomization will result in a richer burn and reduced power and response. If you can start your engine without choke I would sugest you have a problem, the choke is designed to do what it says on the tin and 'choke' the air flow resulting in a richer mixture for cold running, this will result in a loss of power, ecconomy and response. Fuel too lean = more power and more heat in the burn causing detonation and leading to melted valves/pistons.... Too rich = less power, less ecconomy, poor throttle response and control, a cold burn causing heavy thick exhaust gas and lots of unburned hydrocarbons, this will slowly clog the internals of the engine. Excessive fueling can also cause bore wash of the engine due to oil being compromised and 'washed' from the bores, that in turn removes honing marks making things even worse...... Around we go. Good fueling is important! Get it wrong and you can loose lots of power and a simple sports exhaust can't compensate for that Btw, every air filter, exhaust, carb.... Change should be followed by a fueling check, of you don't power will drop as the burn moves away from perfect. So yes it's good to clean the carb but know why you're doing it, don't just do it cus some bloke said its a good idea.

Or fallen into the engine and bent/stuck to a valve, or annihilated the crown of a the piston. Could explain a LOT where compression based power problems go!

Yeah I have noticed the reference to 'that store' a LOT in his 16 posts. I have boots from there and they where very well priced, TCX waterproof, but limited sizes only. But I wouldn't touch a helmet from them! All out in the sun, all left for people to mess with, or get your self a £450 lid for £20 upstairs with a gouge out of the top, scratched visor and missing chin vent! The lids up there all seem to have missing vents! That said the rest of the store was good (again limited sizes, mainly uncommon sizes)

Bike riding and car driving are a bit different lol, testing theories in a car is easy, I have put a few race cars into tyre walls over the years, it doesnt hurt a bit at 60mph, on a bike I cant see the results being as plesant My instructor does bike and car track driving instruction and is trying to get me to agree lessons would be a good idea on my bike, I keep telling him I havent passed my part 2 yet leave me alone

Problem when engine braking is high reving the engine with no positive pressure on the piston rings causes ring flutter and all sorts in a car engine, especialy if the PCV system isnt upto scratch, and although I know nothing about a bike engine it must share many common properties. Its not a huge deal but still. On the plus side it does sound awsome On a 2 stroke engine there will be no lube for the piston during throttle off periods so the higher the rpm the faster the residue will be expelled and wear is induced, unless the fuel is still fed without spark?? Blipping the throttle between down shifts will help hugely tho. As I said I dont know about bike engines, and the Mazda Wankle engine (essentialy 2 stroke) is questionable in sooooo many ways that the lack of premix lube when the oil injection system has been removed is the least of its worries lol.

TC - 01 Littlecat - 02 Mealexme - 03 iWannaGoFast - 04 Augustburnsred - 05 Stu - 06 mojo - 07 iiisecondcreep - 08 Susieque - 09 techno - 10 Bogof - 11 rennie - 12 yorbandit - 13 Keith565 - 14 whitedevil - 15 Karimura - 16 nman1 -17 Rebel Rach - 18 Green - 19 GOG - 20 Bonniebird - 21 Throttled - 22 Randomobject-23 Tango - 24 Nellie - 25 MickeyGW - 26 Mk5Centurion - 27 Craig-28 medtec - 29 GarethNW - 30 JimiB - 31 Theboyparker - 32 Fozzie - 33 Timbo - 34 CarlosVonBrum - 35 psycho - 36 Bumble - 37 Hevra - 38 Bigsisterbiker - 39 Byangoma - 40 R1Barry - 41 TnT - 42 Lette - 43 Degzee - 44 Voodoo - 46 RiffmasterII - 50 Xbandito - 51 Remy - 54 Decor58 - 58 Rushwind - 59 MattB - 67 Timmy Tiger - 69 MrBlonde71 - 71 Davefly76 - 76 caldybunt - 78 Seawolf84 - 84 Lew85 - 85 Silverspring - 88 Boothy - 93 Kitty - 94 Borgy95 - 95 Harrydh3 - 99 Rollo - 100 Polecat - 101 I Stonie I - 120 JellyBelly12345 - 123 Inithra - 125 Damps - 130 Duane69 - 141 Mrbarry - 147 dfrbrowne - 155 craw-177 UK190 - 190 Ninereeds - 222 Tankbag 321 martynmcg - 333 Dispersion - 389 michaeljf - 500 fltchr123 - 555 Chris-589 - 589 Sigil - 599 corsa120 - 649 Dave33 - 650 pinki-88 - 666 Fast Eddie - 675 gordon276 - 696 Devans - 749 croup - 755 JamBerryKing - 777 OhJay - 800 brewster - 840 Jota - 888 Ill take 147 please? I havent got my bike yet but in a few weeks ill be up and running, this seems like a good excuse to put some miles in

I wasnt taught countersteer for my mod1 but a friend told me about it so I did it and it works like a charm. Only issue I see is some fool pushing the bar 6 inches and exiting the seat rapidly, it realy is a sensetive thing. Perhaps thats why they dont teach it. On country lanes on my first lesson on a 600 I was using it after the first half hour and it feels so natural and makes the bike feel planted and easier to control. I didnt do any foot weighting just bar pushing. You can even pull the opposite bar at the same time if that works for you, it has the exact same effect over the bike and feels just as natural to me Now if I can master the slow speed stuff ill be chuffed to bits lol.

If you look on the DSA web site it states that a flip front helmet will be rated as 'P' or 'P/J', 'P' must be down when moving, 'P/J' can be up or down. Riding with the front open on a 'P' helmet is classed as not wearing a helmet in law. That's not an exact quote it's from memory but I only read it this week so it's accurate enough.

Brakes £50 Engine £5000 In a car I like to wear out the cheapest parts fastest! I can't comment on a bike I haven't passed my module 2 yet lol. Track days in a car you down shift as you break because it helps to prevent locking a wheel and helps balance the car. I assume you can do similar things on a bike with experience?