Phooey

Cheers, Stu. As always TMBF to the rescue.

So my new TomTom Ride V5 has arrived and I am wanting to hard wire it into my bike. Ideally, when I turn the engine off I want to cut off the feed to the device also (Just incase I forget it and it drains my battery). Now, I know nothing about electrics so can anyone suggest an idiot proof way to do this. I have the cable that came with the device so all I need is where to connect it to. I am assuming not just + and - terminals of battery, or is it really that simple?

Spoke to Bob Telfer today and he sent me a stem bracket that replaces the domed nut I have on my bike. He is so trusting he said, 'when you get it, you have seven days to pay me.' Job done. Thanks to you all and, of course, Shorty for putting me on to him.

That looks the business, Dave.

Zip ties are so last month ol' boy

That would be excellent mate. It comes with a RAM mount so hopefully I'll just need something to fit into the stem. Just so I know that we are talking about the same thing here, the stem is the bit in the middle of the top yoke, just below the ignition barrel, where I have a shinny chrome, domed cap nut. So if I understand this correctly, I replace that cap nut with something that my RAM mount will attach to. Is this right?

Excellent mate. Thanks. Just hope they come with idiot proof fitting instruction. I can't for the life of me see how that will fit onto my top yoke.

Thanks, Shorty.

Now I know your lying mate. Its impossible for wimin to not piss blokes off. I think that I piss her off a lot more than she pisses me off ... then she gives me those Betty Boop eyes and I have to give in.

Any idea what they are called mate, and would this be an ebay thing or specialist bike shop? Of course, just as soon as she pisses me off which is rare, if ever.

OK ... the wife, the gorgeous little darling that she is, has just bought me a brand new TomTom Ride V5 but, how do I fit it to my bike? It is due to be delivered Tuesday and as far as I can assertain, the fitting bracket is the type that bolts around circular handlebars. On my bike, (some of you know I have a ZZR 600) my handlebars are not the circular type so how do I fit a bracket, and what type of bracket do I need. Fairly urgent because TomTom arrives Tuesday and next Saturday I am going to Cornwall for a week with the bike!

I enjoy oggling all the mums at our school. Would be easier if I had kids at the school though. Only kidding ... I do have kids at the school but I still enjoy the view

How about these? Any reason why they wouldn't work? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Socket-Should ... 3f2bdf8c45

Thanks GOG ... appreciate your insight.

I can't see why he wouldn't like aluminium - the calipers are ali anyway so aslong as the spacers are a snug fit then they'll be dandy. You'd have to go some to shear an 8mm HT bolt... What was the reason he gave? Was the fact that it was a spacer. He would like a 10mm bolt with an 8mm threat on the end. I got the actual MOT next months so I'll see what he does then ... assuming I haven't sorted it by then.

They look like they would work ... I have alluminium spacer in at the moment but Mr MOT man doesn't like them.

I don't have a photo Neil. What I am needing is a bolt, well four actually, that bolts my Nissin calipers onto my ZZR600 legs. The thread in the Nissin calipers is 8mm and the whole in the ZZR legs is 10mm. I have used spacers from alluminium to take up the 2mm difference but my garage man who is doing my MOT for me doesn't like it. I know it can't fail the MOT but if I can make it a better job and avoid the packing out with alluminuim sleeves I will.

Thanks guys but I am looking for a bolt that has a larger shank diameter and a smaller thread diameter. The screwfix link only has threads and shanks that are the same diameter.

... Does anyone know where I am likely to find a HT bolt that is 40mm in length, 8mm dia thread and 10mm dia shank?

My uncle had an old Renault once and he had to lift the engine off its mounts to change the starter motor Some new Vauxhalls you have to remove the front bumper to change a headlight bulb. WTF is that all about?

Thanks, Stu. Just had a brain wave and took the dash light out. Working now so I guess, on another day, I could try fitting a diode between the bulb and the switch. It's been a crasy day with these bloody indicators. all

Some progress ... we rode off and bought another relay and connected it. The result was flashing indicators but all four regardless of the position of the switch. Off no flash ... left or right selected resulted in hazard lights!

Going to avoid the resistor. Try to solve it with a relay. Don't let Watson hear you say that! Found a shop who stocks a relay will go buy it and see what that does.

The resistors have two wires coming from each end so I assumed that this is just wiring as if in series. I wondered they are the correct ones though and if they should be wired in parrallel. http://www.bikenation.co.uk/randg-micro ... Ajzh8P8HAQ This is what WonderAve bought although the wires come from each end and not as in photo. Can't see or tell what ohm they are! Just wondering ... should we have one resistor for each side or for each indicator? A lot of the ebay listings sell them in fours! Also, are we correct in thinking that either the resistors OR the relay is required but not necessarily both?

... so, here I am helping the WonderAve with his LED indicator problems and what we have is this: With the inline resistors in place (connected at the front indicator positions - one on each side) and the old relay the indicators light brightly but do not flash. With the new relay, the one supplied with the kit, the indicators do not even light up Taking the resistors away, with the old relay, all four indicator light but when signalling left the left two are sightly brighter than the right two and when signalling right, the right two are slightly brighter than the left two. No resistors and the new relay, we get a very faint but very quick single flash of the relevant indicator. I have exhausted all of my knowledge trying to get them to work ... now I need your thoughts.