Mr Fro

Mr Fro - 636 Please.

He reckons it'll be fixed next week so it's all good. Just means I get a nice, freshly calibrated sensor for my runs!

I know what you mean - mine was also soley for track and ran like a slag low down. I changed the jets out (amongst other things) and now it's back on the road and running alright - I need to pull the plugs soon to see how it's getting along come to think of it. Thanks for pointing me in Phil's direction by the way. I finally got a few minutes to give him a call and his AF meter is up the swanny!

Precisely. Seeing as this one is destined for the track, I want to get it chugging along as well as is practical considering that it's reasonably standard. I'll do a few more runs and see if I get anything better - it'll be interesting to see how far off it is from the real deal anyway...

I had a chat with the guy at Xbikes in Wisbech but that's about it - I'm hectic at work at the mo and am in the lab from 8-6 every day without a phone so haven't had much of a chance to ring around. To be fair, the arse-cheek system is my preferred method and I've never used a dyno - I was just interested in trying something out to gain some data and thought I'd share my experiment. I was poking fun at myself a bit with the thread as there's a sampling error in the graph ~11 seconds 0-60 would be reasonable in a Volvo estate but not so good on a bike after all.

Seeing as I've not put much effort in to finding a proper dyno company near me, I thought I'd "think outside the box" and have a bash at an alternative. Seeing as a dyno basically gives a graph of HP vs RPM, I figured why not just do a speed vs time plot - should be a reasonable indication of any horrendous flat spots, right? My horrendous flat spot: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/2013-08-19_21-31-17_1.jpg This was my first attempt using a telemetry logging app on my phone which was in my pocket with my lard hindering the GPS signal. I gave it the beans in 2nd from a slow rolling start and am not yet convinced this is accurate - I'll have to give it a few more goes with my phone on the tank or something. Has anyone else given this sort of thing a try before? Cheers, Fro

What he said! Definitely don't go faster than you feel comfortable with! If you're running wide then the chances are you're going too fast for yourself - I've not heard the chevron thing before and I can't say that I'd put too much faith in it! Most people countersteer without realising it so don't get hung up on it. I can't think that it translates very well to a scootypuff because of the wheel size and the rake angle of the stearing head but you're right in saying that you'll want to push your inside hand away from you slightly. You're probably better off looking through the corner at where you want to end up rather than buggering about with countersteering and all that stuff, it'll just reduce your concentration for the things you need to be doing. My other top tip is don't grip the bars too tightly, you need to let the front wheel do it's job so just be nice and relaxed on your scoot, familiarise yourself with a nice country road and gradually build your speed as your confidence grows. Oh, and you might want to try experimenting in a carpark or something first as too much countersteer = appointment with Mr Pavement! All the best, Fro

Alright buddy, I've had the same problem with my ZXR750. Too loud for the test and I didn't want to splash out for a new exhaust (seeing as the bike was dirt cheap!) My solution: I made my own baffle for the can! I cut two discs out of aluminium the same size as the pipe and drilled a hole centrally in both just big enough to take a bolt. Then I drilled as many holes as I could be bothered in one disc, slipped them both on the aforementioned bolt with the solid disc locked down tight and BAM, a DB killer for approximately zero pounds! Here's the thing I made: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/Biking/IMAG0139-picsay_1.jpg I also made a tab to stop the thing shooting out when it's revved: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/Biking/IMAG0138-picsay_1.jpg All in place: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/Biking/IMAG0137-picsay.jpg The idea is to push the exhaust gas through the baffle material which is why the bolt needs to be fairly long, the solid disk needs to be a good few inches inside the actual can. Make the perforated disk slightly larger than the solid one - just big enough to fit inside the end of the pipe otherwise it will disappear down your can and you'll have to take it all apart and get happy with a broom handle! This really makes a difference to the noise level of my bike. I've not gone for a run with it in so can't vouch that it'll do much for your performance but to get you through the noise test it's a blinder. Also, download a freebie DB meter app for your phone, it'll give you a good idea of your noise level. Cheers, Fro

The good old previous owner problem! What was it doing when it started cutting out - was it being ridden/full throttle/idle etc...? Do you have all the standard bits and bobs? It's way easier to set everything back to standard - filter, pipe, carbs mods, low idle mixture screw to name a few before tuning an engine, that way you know what's causing any issues and you can correct them as you go along. You might want to take a look and see if there are any air leaks around the carb before you jump to jetting. The easiest way is to spray some carb cleaner around the carb joints and boot then try and fire it up. If it runs then you've got a leak - watch out for stray or perished vacuum lines too. If that fails then jetting may well be your kiddy. I get my jets from wemoto as they're cheap and I can have them next day. Take a look at this link about carb tuning http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html I don't know what carb you've got but it's a great step-by-step guide. Good luck!

Horses for courses as everyone says. If you really want carrying capacity you should get a Goldwing, it's astonishing the amount of beer you can fit in those things! I have a full set of Oxford gear I've had for ages but only used twice - tank bag, tail pack and panniers if you're interested...

Here you go: http://www.msvtrackdays.com/bike-home/event-details?productid=2046&calType=noviceonly I've used these guys before and loved it! Now I'm an addict.

Honktacular!

I remember these coming out a number of years ago. I used to work down the road from the FastBike office and they tested it in my carpark. As I remember, it worked pretty well. I wonder how comfy one would be using a back protector.

Anyone going to this? I can stick up a link if that sort of thing is permitted...

Okay, so three pics from me at the mo... An arty-farty one of the old 'wing on Margate seafront: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/Biking/Arty_small.jpg Arsing about with Gimp (the graphics package, not the little fella tied up in the basement): http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/Biking/010BWC_small.jpg Finally, my dream bike. I found this little number while Urbexing a tunnel under Ramsgate: http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx246/Mr_Fro/Biking/IMG_0869_small.jpg That's me for now althoug I'm sure I've got plenty of other crap on the lappy at home.

Very good... True though, I'd love a plain matt black one with no decals but then I'd have to get a new tank and another set of leathers...

Hi Guys, I've been getting my ZXR750 ready for the track which has entailed much beggering about with jets, shims, needles and the like. The bike runs well, pulls pretty hard and otherwise seems all good. It would be great to chuck it on a dyno to get a proper readout and do the final fine tuning. So, does anyone know of anyone near Cambridge that can help me out? Cheers, Fro

Nowt wrong with chinese fairings! I stuck a set on my 636 after an "unfortunate incident" a few years back. The fit was really good except for the rear light which needed a bit of tinkering. The colour isn't quite an exact match so in certain lights you can see the colour difference but it's not that obvious. A full set from China cost just about the same as the two panels on one side and the rear pod thing from a Kwak dealer so they are outstanding value for money. I had mine done with OEM decals and I doubt many people could tell the difference!