DillHD

Yeah I googled around a bit before I posted here and chain adjustment kept coming up, how would I know when its tight enough? Going to give this a go later on

Could stuff like that happen on a bike this young? Its only done 2000 miles?

Hahaha. It happens what ever i do, its a little less violent if i ease it on really really slowly. And it does have a few mm before the throttle kicks in

Ive had my new bike for around 4 weeks and noticed that when i'm driving and i let of the throttle (maybe a car is slowing in front) and then i apply the throttle again it jerks forward, this happens in all gears but its most violent in 1st, 2nd, 3rd. I'm a bit worried at turning sharp corners cause I cannot put throttle on during the corner because of it. I've bought some chain grease/wax and that seemed to help with it a tiny bit but i'm still not sure, I think the chain may need tightening but i'm unsure how to tell, it seems like its got quite some slack in it (can lift it ~1.5inch) but when i put it in gear it tightens up. Also not sure if this is related but engine braking in 2nd gear seems quite powerful. Bike is a 125cc supermoto, 2014 model.

Iv'e got a supermoto style bike and havnt ridden it for few month and last week I noticed the left front fork is leaking to the point where itd be leaving small puddles in the floor, bear in mind its a 63 plate so surely they can't have gone? I've tried putting paper in the seals and running it round to try and get any dirt out but its still leaking, it seems to be leaking less but its only been 1 day since. Anyway I just wanna know is it safe to ride & is there anything else I could try/do? A few bit of fluid seems to have gotten out over the weeks

Is this in neutral or in gear? After a quick google search I found this; http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/a ... 13049.html Different model but might be worth a read? It seems the problem in that article is about a manual clutch, this is a simple rev and go ped engine. Ill clean the carb properly tomorrow and let you know how it gets on. Thanks

Sounds like your bike is air cooled, the temp light is not something I have on my Chinese 125.. can only assume it would come on when the bike gets to hot as you say because of not having air pass through it, i'd do some research and find out why that light flashes.. google or a user manual should tell you that. Again the whole revs dropping and it cuts out is the idol speed, kind of contradicts the temp light though.. again find out what the temp light means and take it from there, although for my bike it's recommended by other owners to set it at 2,000RPM (it's hard to recommend something for you becuase I've never owned a twist and go, and or your manufacture). My knowledge is limited sadly, never touched a carb as I've only been riding a few months.. so.. do what you think is best after all the rider knows his bike best, advise against messing with something unless getting the basics out the way first. Out of interest what is the lowest RPM it gets to before cutting out, or what idol speed do you have it set to (just because you may feel warm, the bike is a very different situation). It idles around 2000 then within 3-5seconds it will drop until its eventually to low which is around a little below 1500

By "bogging out" I'm going to assume you mean cutting out like a complete loss of power, is this when it idols all the time or only when warming it up for the first time? I assume you haven't got as far as taking it out on the road yet, of which you'll need to do to solve the issue and work out witch one it is.. get it out on a ride for at least ten minutes and let the engine get up to temp properly, and then when you return and ten minutes leave the bike on and running and adjust the idol speed.. could be the engine idol RPM is set to low causing it to run to cold and not warm up properly therefore cut out. Don't adjust idol speed unless having used it prior because you'll end up setting it to high when it does get up to temp out on the roads and then will need putting back down. I warmed the bike up, so well actually the temp started flashing (I assume this was because it was not being ridden and no cold air was getting to the radiator?), but it was warm and the power seems to be all there, but when youre not putting some throttle on it will start to die (starts losing revs if that makes sense). It constantly needs revving for it to "stay on". Also I would say throttle response is not the best at low rpm some more info: the bike has been sat for 2 years prior, i cleaned the carb when i first got it & again when some fresh petrol had been through it, but my assumption is it might need cleaning again?

I believe a wet or fouled spark plug indicates a flooded engine of which if it is the spark plug might need replacing in order to allow the bike to start again, so remove the spark plug cap and then the spark plug and see what the condition of it is and take it from there. If it is fouled allowing the bike to sit and the excess to evaporate is one choice (clean empty area with the spark plug removed so the hole is exposed), alternatively keeping the throttle all the way open when attempting to turn over is another option (sounds like there's a method in the madness to allow a full throttle to clear it). I left the sparkplug out over night, and it took awhile but now it starts everytime , but it keeps "bogging out" somewhat only when its idleing?

I believe a wet or fouled spark plug indicates a flooded engine of which if it is the spark plug might need replacing in order to allow the bike to start again, so remove the spark plug cap and then the spark plug and see what the condition of it is and take it from there. If it is fouled allowing the bike to sit and the excess to evaporate is one choice (clean empty area with the spark plug removed so the hole is exposed), alternatively keeping the throttle all the way open when attempting to turn over is another option (sounds like there's a method in the madness to allow a full throttle to clear it). ah! Thanks for the info, will take the sparkplug out now and leave it overnight!

Forgot to mention in the main post its got a brand new battery and its full, and flooding might actually be a possibility how would I know for certain?

I bought this Gilera DNA for practically pennys to rebuild it, pretty much it was a project. It needed new top end gaskets so I bought and fitted them (bare in mind, the engine didnt start at this time) while the top was off I checked the piston and rings and barrel, all fine. Put some fresh fuel in it... still didnt start, turns out its "vacuum powered" so I took the vacuum pipe off and gave it a suck ( ), petrol then started flowing through the pipe & now it flows normally when you kick it, and then it started and sounded alright gave it a little rev and had it going for about 20 seconds then it cut out and when you kicked it the engine didnt even want to start, there was nothing there, so I went inside baffled came out 20 mins later, kicked it, it started but done the same thing, cut out, didnt even sound like it had life in it again. Petrol is going to the carb its clearly visible (see through pipe). Now, cut to today messed with a few pipes (nothing much just took them all off to check the carb then put them back on) and the bike started and actually stayed on this time although it couldnt idle for long, it would idle but would eventually start to cut out so when i did finally let it cut out i tried kicking the engine again and long behold.... the engine sounds like its got no life in it, not even a little cough. before this, i took the carb off and one of the jets was blocked so bad it wouldnt clear, so i replaced it with another screw, same size jet, from another DNA carb, and just generally cleaned the carb (just putting this here so it doesnt get said in the replies) Also compression is good, spark is good, no leaks anywhere.

So I bought a Piaggio NRG 2 days ago while I was driving it back at every red light the bike would not move, it would hit 10mph if that then it would gradually get faster untill it hits 7.5k then the bike just goes and I mean it really goes, upto 60mph! I talked to a friend of mine who's been fixing, tuning bikes for decades he said because someone has put a Stage 6 performance exhaust on it and not bothered to change anything like the variator/rollers he also said something about my(riders) weight. I'm just here for a second opinion as he has not physically seen the bike. The bike will take around 3 seconds to actually start moving then will stay around 10mph untill the revs go up and as soon as it hits the 7.5k mark the bike really does go, me not being too engine savvy this absolutely baffles me. I also asked about maybe up jetting, he said it would be healthier for the bike but wouldn't make much difference in the problem. This is a moped so I'm sorry if this is in the wrong thread. Thank you! -Dylan.

I have actually bent the float but I bent it back (i barely even bent it, i bent it like quater of 1mm). What directions could you give me to ensure my float is set correct? Extra info: The throttle is delayed quite a lot when you first pull it back but as soon as it "gets going" at high rpm theres no delay. Also the bike will bog down if I rev it to quick, If I leave the bike running for 2 mins it will rev very high then slowly bog down and if its lucky just barely stay alive 9/10 it bogs down and cuts out. I honestly think it is the carb, more specifically the fuel going into the carb but I just cant figure a way to fix it. EDIT: I just remembered I "bent" the float on the carb weeks ago and since then I have had the bike running after that and it revved fine, so it cant be that.. im baffled

I removed the filter to double check, and actually the bike runs better with the filter off and actually revs. But if I take the pipe leading to the filter box off the bike wont start.

I have removed the air filter so I could see the pin and when you pull the throttle the pin moves perfectly, just like it should. Im so confused. When the bike wasnt running (weeks ago) I cleaned the jets from the carb, is it possible for me to screw them in too much or too less? And this is causing it? Also if I pull the throttle back alot the bike bogs down and cuts out, maybe this is something key Have you tried running the bike without the air filter and see if that makes a difference.. Yes, makes no difference. Also now, the bike is starting to rev up on its own and then cuts out around 22 - 2400

I have removed the air filter so I could see the pin and when you pull the throttle the pin moves perfectly, just like it should. Im so confused. When the bike wasnt running (weeks ago) I cleaned the jets from the carb, is it possible for me to screw them in too much or too less? And this is causing it? Also if I pull the throttle back alot the bike bogs down and cuts out, maybe this is something key

[UPDATE] So today I finally managed to get it to a friends garage and was running all different tests on the bike, electrics, compression etc... The bike was in perfect shape in those departments. But then he took the spark plug off and tried starting it and it sounded flooded... Badly so he leaves it open lets some evaparate for the few hours it was not messed, when we come back to the bike it started to "cough" somewhat, sounding much much much more like a bike. Then to "fasten up" the de-flooding we put a blowtorch over the where the sparkplug would be and tried starting it and flames came right out indicating there is quite some petrol/oil in there so after a few attemps of this and using compressed air machine we got most of the petrol/oil out we heated the sparkplug put it in and waala it started, not straight away but eventually. So as of right now the bike starts BUT I have another problem *sighh* the bikes throttle barely does anything nor does the screws on the carb (we were adjusting the carb screws to set the idle correct). When you move the throttle cable the bike will climb revs on its own which is not seeming so easy to fix as the cable is not trapped on anything the cables are lubed and the throttle "handle" isnt getting stuck, when the actual throttle is pulled its doing very little, but what can I say at least the bike actually starts now heh? Sorry for the wall of text.

The 2stroke oil is in a separate tank

It's a 2 stroke and iv put the spark plug to the engine before and it's giving a good spark, it's deffiently getting air and fuel. It's a mystery

The battery is in OK condition, not the best if im honest but it holds it's charge after trying the electric starter for some 20-30 mins it starts to go dead and needs to be charged but I cant see that being the problem.

The bike is a 2012 SM50, as for the recuperation there was quite alot of white smoke but after some idleing it seemed to have gone down abit but not by much, if I turned the bike off It would start almost instantly off the electric starter, so I thought hey its fixed now! The next day It didn't start and hasnt since. The odd morning when I try it, it sometimes stays on for 1 second (doesn't seem much but you can tell it idled nice for that 1-2 seconds rather than instantly cutting out (literally)) but then It wont start again for the rest of the day. Honestly, to me, this bike is a mystery.

Sure, no problem. here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=52597

I posted a thread a while back about my bike that would not start after couple week of not being run & I also posted the bike started and was getting "healthier" this was not the case, far from it. Ever since my last post about this bike the bike has not started AT ALL. When you kick the bike the dash lights up which indicates the bike engine is on but within milliseconds it goes off If you use the electric start the bike try's to start but the dash doesn't light up. Things iv tried: cleaned carb (three times) cleaned jets 2 new spark plugs fresh petrol cleaned exhaust different wiring loom petrol is getting to the carb Bump starting it, a little more luck here, when bumpstarting and the clutch is released the bike somewhat turns on but it sounds like its trying its VERY hardest to cut its self out as soon as you let the throttle of or the bike stops rolling the bike will cut out. Iv even took the side of the engine case of and got a cordless(drill) on the nut and the bike wont start(i know VERY stupid but It was my completely last resort) While doing this It was at 3000 revs and when the cordless stopped so did the bike. It's like im trying to start a bike with the Killswitch on, only... it doesn't have one. I cannot take this bike to the garage as its miles away and don't fancy pushing it that far, I don't even have anything I could transport the bike in, nor do I have any mates to check it out as they're all car guys ;( Iv completely had it with this bike and so close to selling it, ANY help AT ALL is 110% appreciated. I miss my bike .

[uPDATE] So today I took the carb of... again, and cleaned it thoroughly and when I checked the jets there was barely a hole in the pilot jet so I cleaned it and put it back together. Still, the bike did not start but after trying to start it for 15 straight mins it finally started and cut out, then started then cut out but each time it sounded like it was getting "healthier" as of now the bike starts almost straight away and idles fine, but there is ALOT of white smoke which hopefully I'm going to sort out tomorrow.