MacLean

I'm going to say there is nothing wrong with it

You have only estimated the mileage which you could be way off that as those little rides soon add up plus the colder weather will make it use a little more and if your only doing a few short rides and town riding this won't help at all

I suggest you brim it reset the clock ride till reserve note the miles and brim it again and note the litres used then work out your mpg with that

Yeh I think you may be right. I was completely expecting a bit worse milage than my fzs, and it deffo is needing more juice but I think theres a few things possibly making me think its worse than it is.

Mainly the fact its new and possibly in my aimless rides going further than I think i am and also I think the fact it does not have a fuel gauge only a light when its on reserve is kinda catching me by surprise where as before the gauge would let you know its comming up soon.

Will see - I might be a bit of a gimp here making a fuss out of nothing lol.

First time i took my GSXR600 from Southampton to Sevenoaks in kent, the fuel light come when i was on the M25. It was after a 'spirited' ride up the M3, but still, that's less than 100miles before the light came on...

how have you been riding it??

Very gentle tbh, only 1 or 2 bursts from lights onto dual carridgeways, other than that just casual riding really with 80mph max motorway cruising speed. Not really even went down any country roads on it yet!

So on a scale of 1 - 10, 10 being track style and 1 being granny style, id say about a 4!

Yeh perhaps in the 'excitiment' of owning a new bike im under estimating the miles im doing. Bloody well hope so anyway!

Cheers man, will post how it goes.

I do not know much about this exahust tbh. Dont even know who makes it! There is no manufacture printed on it. It sounded good and I'm not really arsed what exahust is on it as long as it works tbh!

 

Trouble is that with all the sensors on modern bikes for the emission control, changing the exhaust without the ECU being remapped can really screw the performance up....the sensors for oxygen in the exhaust gases can overcompensate if a non-standard can is on there.........although 85 miles on 3 & a bit gallons is a bit extreme......but the exhaust could be part of the problem. You could try pulling the plugs out and checking their colour to see if the bike is running too rich......although this may screw your warranty.

Anyhoo.....there are several peeps on here that run R6's....so they may be able to offer a better insight into a reasonable range for that bike.....

Hmm, sounds like this can/mapping could be part of the problem.

Given this slightly suspicious unbranded can thats on it, and the fact the bike may not be mapped for it, sounds like it could be some part of the problem.

I am going to fill it up and reset the meter and get the exact miles it goes before the light comes on, then phone up the dealer and basically say the bike you sold me gets 80 miles casual riding and everyone else gets over 100, I am no longer a happy customer!

I don't know what sort of range other R6 riders are getting.....but I would expect somewhere in the 120-150 miles range between fillups.....that's the sort of range I got on my Speed 4 with a mixture of riding.....

I'm guessing that the ECU should be mapped for the replacement exhaust unless the manufacturer of it certifies that it doesn't need it. Also does the bike have a service history?......when was it last serviced....and by whom?......was the plugs, air filter etc done?

Just my tuppence worth really mate.......

The bike does have a full service history, I'll check it out again later as am at work now, but it got one done like 2 weeks ago when I bought it lol. It also got a new air filter done in that service as well - I think plugs but will need to check that.

I do not know much about this exahust tbh. Dont even know who makes it! There is no manufacture printed on it. It sounded good and I'm not really arsed what exahust is on it as long as it works tbh!

Ya man, I'm talking from full till the time the reserve pops on.

Full is filling up with bike upright with me on it, and just touching the bottom of the funnel bit at the top of tank if you get me.

just over 20 quids worth of petrol which is about a tanks worth these days eh?

Unless I'm wildley underestimating! I will try and do another run except get a precise reading from the trip meter.

But I know I done a 40mile ride + 25mile ride + some random aimless riding around. But i dont think i done many miles in my aimless riding.

Roughly what should an r6 get on a full tank? edit - say with 50/50 crusing/giving it beans. I would have expected at least 100 miles

Hi guys,

I've not long owned an 05 r6 and although i know that petrol milage isn't the main concern, I have a 3month warrenty on the bike so if something is up want to find it and get it sorted very soon.

Basically I think a full tank of petrol on it only got me about 75-80 miles. I want to do another run where I set the trip meter and get this precisley.

I'm not riding particularly hard tbh - as its an unfamilliar bike i've been taking it relativley easy, however I wonder if its because the power band of this bike I tend to ride in a lower gear. I've gunned it once or twice from lights onto a dual carridge way to get a feel for what it can do but like i say genrally just been pootling about built up areas on it. 80miles!?

The only other thing is that it has come with an aftermarket exhaust with no manufacture on it and I wonder if this is the culprit.

When I get the revs up there - the exaust can sound a bit lively, a bit popy lol - not like a backfire 'bang' (Have had this before with rusted downpipes) but the occasional little pop.

Wondering if this could be the culprit.

I'll add a pic of it - does anyone know the make of this pipe?

Oh man games were my addiction. Some people get addicted to drugs, some booze for me its GAMES!

Quit as a new years resolution and haven't played a computer game in 2013.

I now do much more productive things like watching tv

Okay thanks again guys....

Will keep soaking them this week and give it a go at the weekend!

Oh btw, my MOT had an advisory that my brake pads are glazed...

Which is apparantly the pads becoming too smooth and results in bad brake performance.... Im just wondering, how have i managed to glaze the pads in the first place? Anything I can do about it?

Cheers guys... Bah im dreading this job...

Any of you ever done it and not snapped/rounded off bolts?

Whats the procedure if you do round off the bolts, or if you snap the studs?

My downpipes need replaced due to them rusting up and eventually getting holes, and now failed the MOT....

I've started spraying penetrating oil on the downpipe nuts as I know they are going to be a bastrd to get off. I was wondering - after a few days of spraying the oil at the nuts, do you think it will make undoing the nuts any easier if I fire the bike up for 20mins to heat the pipes/nuts up before giving it a shot?

Or do you think it wont make a bit of difference?

Also when doing it, is it better to give the ratchet a short sharp jab, or is it better to try and smoothly apply more pressure until the nuts give way?

Thanks guys.

Ok... i had a look on youtube (i don't know my way around the vehicle yet). Can someone who know what they're doing sanity check this for me? Thanks.

* Undo bolts to remove calliper.

* Remove calliper.

* Remove pin/s to get pads out.

* Pump the brake just enough to get the pistons showing without falling out.

* Blast with some cleaner to clean out the calliper and pistons (I figure i can't go wrong with an aerosol that evapourates).

* Give the back of the pads a clean and apply a little copper slip.

* Push pistons back in.

* Reassemble in reverse of dissasemble.

Now, in addition to that, is it ok to just remove the bolts and then put them back? or are they locktite etc?

Assuming the steps are correct, bearing in mind i'm not a comlete muppet (i think), is this something i can do myself without worrying? Presumably there are some jobs which are best left to people who know what they're doing, but the vids i saw looked fairly simple.

Thanks

Thos steps look more or less right.

Although I would still say you should have a haynes for you're specific bike?

My brake caliper bolts have a bit of coper slip on em, no lock tight but check with you're haynes.

Can you do yourself without worrying, well its no doubt brakes are an area where you want to take great caution. As long as you follow you're haynes and do exactly what it says and torque up bolts exactly as it says, then it should be a piece of cake. I changed the lines and disassembled my calipers a few months back and this was my first time working on brakes. So far they're still working great so if I can you can! Just dont rush!

Haha I love the description

"A must for any real biker"

then further down

"Helmet doesn't meet any saftey standards"

LOL

YES!!!

Took the cable tie off it and now can no longer pull it back to touch the handlebar, Brilliant!

Ive read that trick ages ago and some folk argue that it dont work cos it 'scientifically doesnt make sense' however there is a noticable difference and deffo feels miles better now.

Many thanks for helping me through this one WalneyFrankie and J4ff!

cheers guys, got the lever cable-tied to the bar now and am gonna leave it till tomorrow and have a feel.

Fingers crossed

Okay got the annoying bolt out... Put the new bolts in tightened everything up.

Fluid in, and I used one of these hand pumps that make a vacume to bleed the brakes.

Tried the lever and it still is touching the handlebar lol

It was late last night and traffic was low so took it for a spin to see if theres any difference, and yes they feel firmer, but I still need to pull the lever way too far before the decent brake power kicks in, so im still not satissfied its right.

Any suggestions? I really dont want to take it to a mechanic as I've got this far and want to finish it myself!

Thanks

wernt able to try lastnight but will give the hacksaw and screwdriver a shot... however i dont think im gonna get enough torque with a screw driver so if I cant will use the groove to try and chisel it round... Will see how it goes if I have another bash tonight.

Okay just tried a torx part, at first looked promissing as the star shaped bit seemed to grip nicely. Applied a bit of power to loosen it and it just ground out even more of the bolt.... Have been looking for mole grips which are kicking around somewhere but as of yet havent tried them - are they a bad idea given the shape of the bolt?

What else can I do now?

Yeh my original bolts were hex head however the venhill ones look like this:

http://i.ebayimg.com/07/!BbVG(fQ!mk~$(KGrHqEOKjEEq4KlsNmoBKvjoRezNQ~~_35.JPG

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/1/6/0/6/2/5/webimg/239261257_o.jpg

So gonna order two new bolts but my question is, the one in the master cyclinder is rounded off what would you all recommend is the best way of getting this out without damaging anything but the bolt? Just drill it?

mole grips.... put em on as tight as possible, and give a whack (remember to go for loose, not tight...), make sure master cylinder is attached firmly to bars..first

just goes to show Torque wrenches and settings are the only thing to use. do em up tight, then tighten some more, if leaking....

Cheers mate, Will give mole grips a shot but the banjo bolt is a smooth round bolt head so I think the mole grips will end up slipping...Bit confused tho you sed put them on as tight as possible but go for loose not tight?

Okay got a step further on this but hit a new wall!

So took em to shop they got remaining pistons out for me.

Cleaned it all up put in the new seals, replaced pistons, greased up the pads put them in installed the calipers.

Set the lines up loose first to get the lines routing nicely once happy go to tighten the banjo bolts. Look in the (Venhill) instructions and theres no torque settings so then look at the haynes: 30nm it ses.

So I go and set the wrench to 30nm go to tighten the banjo bolt in the master cyclinder, start cranking it - hang on somethin aint right - have a look and its just completely rounded the banjo bolt.

So I think to myself that that was my fault for not engaging the allen key socket thing properly so go to tighten the front left caliper, this time hammer the wrench tightly into the bolt and begin cranking, the banjo bolt snaps in half before I reach 30nm so this is when I call it quits.

Had a look and in the faq on the website at the very bottom they have torque settings of min 19nm and max 25nm so that explains the problem. (although it would make MUCH more sense to have this on the instructions!)

So gonna order two new bolts but my question is, the one in the master cyclinder is rounded off what would you all recommend is the best way of getting this out without damaging anything but the bolt? Just drill it?

If front brake becomes spongy even when bled correctly it'll be you brake lines as the older they get they stretch when you apply the brake and lose pressure to the pads. The cheapest option would be to replace them with normal ones rather than with steel braided ones as you get no flex on the hoses. If you've not ridden much or at all with steel braided hoses be very careful as you'll end up eating tarmac through locking the front wheel up. If your stripping the calipers get new seals for them but I would just replace the hoses you'll notice a big difference.

Ahh thats a valuable little something that I shall keep in mind. Thanks buddy.

In a way im beginning to wish I did just do the hoses, but im half way there now so will keep pressing on.

Okay manged to get 4 out of 8 pistons out last night

Problem was that after hooking lines up again and pumping the brake, for the left caliper, the two pistons on the left would come way out, but the two on the right have only came out about 3mm and although i tried, couldnt get enough grip to get them out. It was the exact same on the right hand caliper, the two pistons on the right came out loads but the two on the left only came out 3mm.

So now am not sure if i should take em to the shop to get the last 4 out, or try the whole pumping thing again. Ended up spilling loads of brake fluid on the garage floor aswell

put the piston you have out back in, and slot in the pads, then apply compressed air or connect to the brake line with fluid, and push the pistons out, remove one pad at a time, which will stop the pistons coming out completely meaning you can apply pressure to all at the same time, all pistons should now sit proud enough to get hold of them and take them out..

I'm with you, yeh that makes sence. I'll hook up the old lines throw the old fluid down, and do what you said, just to get them out. Flush the crap fluid out again and carry on from there.

THANKS! Will let you know how I get on