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I'd assume they'd just put the bikes in a van and drive there, although wouldn't feel exactly against the idea of riding the bigger bike their.. some sneeky module 2 practice, as a final choice I'd have my 125 if all else fails. I think I'll try a few of the manurers on my 125 but just to ensure I can do them.. I think I'd rely on the training schools "one day of training" to get me up to speed and teach me all I need to know, all in all the way I see it Module 1 is basically a more intensive, serious CBT on a more powerful bike, I'm just putting a lot of trust into the school to be able to get me test standard in a few hours.

Did this not long after I got my bike when I wanted to attempt countersterring for the first time, rocked up before work early one sunday morning and started using the lampposts dotted around.. god knows what anyone who saw me must of thought. All in all I'd say the U-Turn looks like the hardest one to practice for just because I live on a slanted downhill so whenever I've tried it before I just end up turning the bike with around with my feet because it's easier. Also I don't know if I'd trust the results of practising on my 125 as a real result of if I was capable as the throttle can be a little jerky, me and the clutch have never got on and 1st gear is so tiny that it should be a crime, I'd like to think that practising on something than would inspire me with more confidence would enable me to learn properly, although I'll attempt a few of the above before hand and see how I get on. Thanks.

The costs mentioned above are with a training school.. it's one day of training for £150 and then the test at the end of the day (prices above), so all in all a day's training (with a training school) and the test module 1 = £165 (aprox). My questioning is, is one day of training and a test at the end to much.. it's a very tempting price point and if I'm going to invest in items of similar price continuously I might as well make a sensible investment.

Hi all, So I've been riding since November of last year (my first bike) so roughly four months, one of my aims from the start before I even invested in a 125 was to get an A2 license, originally I wanted to wait, get the license and then have a better choice of bike, insurance costs bought me down to earth so now stuck with getting on the roads and gaining some experience before going for further training, originally I was going to use my due tax refund to get my license out of the way.. that's taking longer than expected so have a bit of a dilemma. Saving the money isn't a problem and nor is time my CBT/Theory is still valid for at least another year and a half.. I was emailing a training school that offers one day of training with bike and gear included for £150 and then they do the test at the end of the same day to prevent further costs incurring, so basically £150 + (Mod 1 - £15-16, Mod 2 - £75), it's location is about ten minutes away from part of my usual commute and I've seen the training school bikes out and about on my usual route.. so not completely out of my comfort zone in terms of location. I keep investing similar amounts of money into bike gear or electrical items instead of getting my license out the way witch in honesty would leave me completely stress free with only insurance costs to worry about in the future, anything else is a choice. So do I attempt to do a module 1 and test all in one day without any experience outside of a 125cc, I've commuted all through winter and in all weather and times of day for a few months and feel that I've gained a good understanding of controlling my bike, I have the confidence just not in my bike as it continues to impress me with its ever changing reliability. I've read that Mod 1 is much harder than Mod 2 so what route do I take, I just think that if I can afford to buy a expensive helmet etc as I'm currently in the middle of why don't I put my shopping list on hold and get the casting shadow from over my head. Suggestions, is one day far to short and a gamble?

I've been riding for a few months and have rode past a few cars that look like they're in trouble.. don't feel bad because I've had one serious breakdown and a few faults and not a single person stopped for me, can't say I've encountered a biker that looks to be in trouble thus far would be more inclined to attempt a lending hand.. problem is, most of the time I'm commuting not riding socially or for fun therefore don't really have the time as bad as it sounds. I will strongly advise that you always have credit on your phone and the recovery number from your insurance policy (you do have breakdown cover right?).. sadly my one serious breakdown was 9 days after I purchased my lexmoto.. I repeat 9 days, I hadn't a clue about bikes.. got to a roundabout and started to downshift and it just cut out loosing power slowly, wouldn't start, ended up pushing it a few miles (while sat on it.. just used my feet to push me) and then managed to get it started for one last time and get home without stopping mostly in anything but a safe roadworthy condition, didn't have the number or credit at the time (as you can imagine I didn't think I'd be breaking down) so is always handy. Getting to know your bike and look after it regularly will help in spotting problems early, most importantly inspect your bike before every ride (I do mine on the first ride every day). Things to carry with you at all times (I learnt the hard way over time); - A toolkit with all required spanners/screwdrivers - A phone with a bright light or a handheld small light (often easier to get in smaller places) - Electrical tape - Spare L plates (annoying but always handy, I've had my fair share of battered ones due to high wind) Plus I always take a towel so I don't end up having to sit on a wet seat.. also came in handy throughout winter when all I had to do was wipe my mirrors and clocks and get on my way (after a long warmup waiting period).. Also ensure you top your tyres up the recommended amount at least once a week and lube your chain when required, two very important points to keep you away from a breakdown or an off.

Clutches are finikly little things, there's no real "do it once a week" more when it requires it. All in all if the engine breaking isn't as powerful as before then maybe this new found power/pull means that you don't need to be in such a high gear as previously, if you're not feeling enough resistance that usually means you just need to go down another gear, only to the point where it jerks will you now you've gone to far. I'd suggest trying the above before making any changes, it sounds like things have just been cleaned out and given it a fresh smell of life, maybe you just need to adjust to it as opposed to changing things straight away.. although if you try and can't get used to it then no harm in small adjustments.

Take this with a pinch of salt as I'm no mechanic.. IMO replacing the engine casing bolts would have no effect on the performance or be the cause of such problems, if anything you've done yourself a favour as I'd be worried if my casing bolts could be undone by hand. I'd say take a visual look at where the clutch is on top of the engine casing and ensure the arm is engaging / disengaging correctly and has the required amount of free play, ensure that the clutch lever isn't randomly loose, put the bike on the centre stand or paddock and ensure that it goes through the gears fine both up and down without any jerkiness or jolting forward, also ensure engine breaking is in full effect when going down the gears as opposed to shifting all the way down. I'd say the biggest give away to a clutch needing to be adjusted is hitting false neutrals or when engaging into 1st gear for the first time that day after warming the bike up (it will jolt forward). Also are you sure that adding new clutch plates hasn't shocked it into life and is now making your machine run better? Also does the bike continue to gain speed when reving high or is it just reving?

I'm still waiting to speak to either of the two main managers.. case of if and when we're both on the same shift. The letter I received from HMRC stating how much I'm allowed to be payed each month before tax proves that I'm owed basically every penny back, the personal threshold may be above my estimated total income for the year anyway, either way.. now that I'm on the right code it's one step forward. And I work for Marks And Spencer's.. so I'd say I'd trust them to get it together.. eventually, not their fault on the refund anyway, just need notifying and see if they can do anything for me.

I had one that was stopped in traffic.. I was at the side of the rode with gloves and helmet on the floor with hazards on attempting to put my clutch cable back in place after it came out.. made eye contact and I just shrugged my shoulders with the intention of acting unimpressed and he just carried on. I'll be sure to note the helmet position though, cheers.

I only headnod never considered waving (to focused on controlling the throttle). In winter most of the bikers I come across nodded back, again probably because of the whole commuting through winter and braving the cold, although recently I've seen a lot of KTM's/Honda/Sports bikes that fail to acknowledge me. I had one bike coming in the opposite direction who I nodded at, he looked at my helmet (AGV K3 SV - Rossi Styling) and then started at my bike and I guess he liked the look of my helmet but didn't like my lexmoto, so was like "ok mr judgemental".. Can't say I'm bothered by people that don't nod back for me it's more about when bikers don't stop when you're in trouble in terms of broken down, every time I've pulled over with my hazards on the bikes just carry on past. So much for the "biker community"

Yes I'm employed, thinking about it there was a number I was given if I had any future problems when one of my pay-checks was messed up, see if one of the managers can dig the cobwebs out and ring it up. Thanks for the inadvertent reminder

Thanks for taking the time to try and find it on my behalf. I've walked up that street endless amounts of times for years and never noticed anything that looks even remotely government/HMRC like.. one way to kill one of my days of next week and see if I can find anything that stands out. Other than that I'll think i'll just await the end of the tax year, couple of months away anyway? 13 Minutes on hold trying to get through to their office, absolute joke

Is there a way to find out where my local tax office is.. google search gave me nothing but a local post office.

Just wasted about a fiver worth of credit trying to get through, finally got to their usual ringtone before speaking to someone and credit ran out, is it better to wait? Don't want to spend my bank account trying to get through.

Hi all, So I've been played about at work for a long time regarding my tax code after filing out a form online and a very slow process my tax code has finally been changed to the correct one it said on the letter that if any tax was due to be sent back it would on my next payday, it's been two since and nothing. I've used the HMRC tax calculator and it says that I'm due back everything I've paid thus far. I've tried to contact HMRC via telephone but after a p*** taking long a** generic recorded voice the recording says "sorry, all our staff our busy right now.. thankyou for calling" like I have all the credit in the world to be wasting. Is there a faster way to claim for a tax refund than letter / wasting credit.. or is there a set date that I'd get the money back sometime in the summer?

Try a few clips, i'm sure the software allows for a dummy "test" of the entire 10/11 clips.. that will give you the most realistic result as opposed to clip by clip, takes a while though so you might not be tempted to try it more than once an hour.. depends how much you really want to learn it, I got bored trying the whole set.. only did a handful of clips otherwise.

Did my theory October/November so unless they've introduced or change the system I think this is still valid.. The clips are similar (some not all) as mentioned the shoulder check from a cyclist.. I had a one with a cyclist on the pavement, perform a should check (this is where the system wants me to click) and then for whatever reason come down the kerb into the road and start riding in the road. As mentioned, don't get used to what's going on in the clip but how and when it wants you to click.. I had practised weeks before (just because.. well I don't even know) and soon discovered that when I was clicking and when it needed to be clicked where to very different things, I changed my mindset and learnt when was to soon and when was to late attempting to hit the sweet spot. It's not about spotting the hazard at all like mentioned, more a finiky waste of time clicking system timeframe, it's worth watching the clips on the DVD (after attempting them) to see where the scoring system is and how soon or long it lasts for.. per clip.. and then you can judge for the actual test.

I've only ever had one experience with a car (probably to young to really try) sat in the seat and attempted to release the clutch, my idea of slow and the reality of slow was very different.. needless to say it shot forward and that was the end of me wanting or even attempting to get a car (not that it had even crossed my mind anyway, cars really have no appeal to me).. all in all being confident on a bike and in a car is two very different things, so don't expect to be smooth on one because you've nailed the other, although once you've gotten both down to the T.. your winning really. "Niggles at slow control".. I assume slow moving traffic and clutch control, I'd say don't be afraid to mess about with adjusting the clutch if you find the bitting point to far out or to far in, if your hitting false neutrals or shifts are jerky.. the bike controls are best set to the way that you want them not what the dealerships mechanic sets them to, having controls that suit you can change your ride and make it unbelievably more comfortable the less you have to focus on problems with the bike the more you can focus on your ride. I personally currently own a Chinese 125 (que jokes) and have had problems with the clutch and gearbox since I've gotten it, thus meaning that shifts are jerky and sometimes lands me in hot water trying to slow control with the clutch.. it has indeed knocked my confidence because I'm unable to judge how well or poor the ride i'm about to embark on is (hopefully will change when I get better bike for my A2 when done). My advice in terms of growing confidence is just get out there, if you're positive that the control problems are you and not the bike then practice in an empty location at finding the bitting point and slow riding and then move out in some traffic, steady throttle control also plays a huge part in that.. as for hill starts well they're a pain anyway, all in all a combination of rear/front (if needed) brake, clutch and throttle control.. quite a test, I attempted a slow clutch and throttle turn onto a slanted road and ran wide (panicked a little.. still learning) so it varies depending on where you're riding. In terms of confidence for me personally on my CBT I hadn't even touched a bike before, locked the back wheel up within minutes of being on the road (downhill in the wet) but apart from that never had an issue and went on to pass my CBT first time, I kept putting myself down but the other pupil and instructor just agreed that I was being to harsh and was expecting to much in a couple of hours, going from never riding or touching a bike to having a pass was quite the achievement (if only basic skill is required).. however ever since I've had my Chinese 125 I'd say it's taught me more about having to fix my bike and look after it than any other brand would have (not a good thing for reliability), although the problems with the gearbox/clutch have also had their knock on my confidence, it's not nice having a bike that you don't know how well it's going to behave itself when you go out, hitting false neutrals etc. All in all I'd say you've got a good bike from a reliable brand, adjust the controls (if needed) to suit you.. IE; Clutch adjustment.. and then get out riding as much as possible, it takes %100 more skill to slow ride in traffic and filter than it does to get upto speed on an empty road. Good luck

Excuse me while I go back in time and tell myself not to post this.. not a bad deal if you where in that boat of wanting a Honda and a license although I suspect that you'd never see the refund in the first place and instead they'd knock it of the price of the bike. Teach me to read the T&C's.. you know what they say.. if it looks to good to be true

+1 On the whole await until you're old enough to take the A license. Makes more financial sense you may have to do your CBT/theory again but beats having to spend another £400+ on training/test fee's to retake a full license. As for the bike to get.. there are many personal factors as to what you can get the list is to big to start suggesting, draw up a list of MUST's and WANT's and then compromise.. find a bike that meets your budget and start getting dummy quotes, if you find one that meets your price point and can be insured then you've got your target, get the license out the way and see if you can test ride it.. so on and so forth. In reality I've seen an old 1998 Kawasaki ZX6R (Ninja) for just under £2,000 as well as seeing an R1 (age was 1990-2000, somewhere inbetween) on gumtree for around £1,600 (the ad disappeared within hours.. no surprise) so do shop around.

Overlooked that, my apologies. As I say my knowledge is limited.. could be a simple issue someone else will be able to point out when reading. Good luck

Is this in neutral or in gear? After a quick google search I found this; http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/a ... 13049.html Different model but might be worth a read?

Sounds like your bike is air cooled, the temp light is not something I have on my Chinese 125.. can only assume it would come on when the bike gets to hot as you say because of not having air pass through it, i'd do some research and find out why that light flashes.. google or a user manual should tell you that. Again the whole revs dropping and it cuts out is the idol speed, kind of contradicts the temp light though.. again find out what the temp light means and take it from there, although for my bike it's recommended by other owners to set it at 2,000RPM (it's hard to recommend something for you becuase I've never owned a twist and go, and or your manufacture). My knowledge is limited sadly, never touched a carb as I've only been riding a few months.. so.. do what you think is best after all the rider knows his bike best, advise against messing with something unless getting the basics out the way first. Out of interest what is the lowest RPM it gets to before cutting out, or what idol speed do you have it set to (just because you may feel warm, the bike is a very different situation).

By "bogging out" I'm going to assume you mean cutting out like a complete loss of power, is this when it idols all the time or only when warming it up for the first time? I assume you haven't got as far as taking it out on the road yet, of which you'll need to do to solve the issue and work out witch one it is.. get it out on a ride for at least ten minutes and let the engine get up to temp properly, and then when you return and ten minutes leave the bike on and running and adjust the idol speed.. could be the engine idol RPM is set to low causing it to run to cold and not warm up properly therefore cut out. Don't adjust idol speed unless having used it prior because you'll end up setting it to high when it does get up to temp out on the roads and then will need putting back down.

Oh dear, that I missed.. so basically only that price when buying a honda?