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I believe a wet or fouled spark plug indicates a flooded engine of which if it is the spark plug might need replacing in order to allow the bike to start again, so remove the spark plug cap and then the spark plug and see what the condition of it is and take it from there. If it is fouled allowing the bike to sit and the excess to evaporate is one choice (clean empty area with the spark plug removed so the hole is exposed), alternatively keeping the throttle all the way open when attempting to turn over is another option (sounds like there's a method in the madness to allow a full throttle to clear it).

Does the battery have the required charge.. and also are you sure you haven't flooded it in the attempt to keep getting it started?

If you're pulling the clutch lever in and the arm isn't moving then sounds to me like either a seized/sticking clutch of witch you've already attempted to tackle with the new plates.. clean the inside of the engine casing (where the arm goes into the casing, actually inside) and see if that makes a difference, could be anything has worked it's way inside and prevented it from working, also may be worth taking the side casing of and seeing what it does when you pull the clutch lever in. The other obvious possibility is that the clutch cable may need replacing. I'd say start with the obvious basics before spending any more money, work through the parts one by one and inspect each closely to ensure functioning correctly before replacing or moving on to next. I recently had a clutch sticking issue with the arm, turned out a spray of WD40 on the arm ensures that it doesn't corrode anymore (after it was fixed). Might be of help might not im no mechanic

Hi all, So i'm in no way associated with Honda or the training courses and this isn't spam.. so now that's clear, just wanted to point out an interesting advertisement I noticed on Honda's website after window shopping for bikes. Seems they must have partnered with certain schools to provide certainly decent prices for a full license at £365 including test fee's, shame the courses are so far away and spread out otherwise I'd personally invest on my next payday. £450 for new riders from scratch, personally an impressive price point. I'll leave you to make your own minds up, worth a mention for anyone near the locations. http://bikes.honda.co.uk/motorcycles/ri ... chool.html

Tempted to try the bluetooth headset and pair it with my iPhone and just leave the phone in my pocket for the morning empty road commutes, although worry somewhat about how well it would work. Plus my Helmet is the AGV K3 SV so wouldn't it make more sense to invest in the AGV bluetooth headset? although £26.99 v £100 (something or other) it is tempting.

Haven't had to yet, thankfully.. I guess it depends on what you've been stopped for and how much the officer wants to ruin your day, either way as sad on a stand alone issue my money goes on not getting stopped, it's one of those small rules that you question why it exists. On the other hand my honest response would be "I've spent enough money on broken L plates for the rear as it is, why am I going to invest more pounds into a bracket etc".. just ensure the rear L plate is in a visible place and is tied down properly, should avoid any hassle for that issue then.

IMO the rear matters more with the hole "upright vertical" law/rule as for the front just get a sticky/adhesive and whack it on top of the front mud guard.. no one can say it's not there, right? + I never liked the idea of having a bracket to the side of my wheel just because it would dictate the lean angle around corners, or if I put it on the forks then would I want it getting in the way or coming loose when going over bumps.

There is a module 1 and module 2 test experience posts on here.. might be worth a read. From what I understand module 1 is the harder of the two based on the fact that riding on the roads is the same on any bike in that providing you have a steady safe way of riding you should be ok, just don't twist the throttle as quick or as much as you would on the 125cc. Makes a valid point, some people find it easier to stick to the 125cc as it's a whole bunch cheaper than engine sizes above and also some never need more power than what a decent 125cc offers. Plus many people who own high end sports bikes or "bigger bikes" often have cheap 125cc to ride through the winter months or in rain etc as they're cheap on fuel and also to repair/insure.. so getting something with more power isn't always the answer (although probably helps).

Ouch on that price point, didn't realise they charged that much even with your own bike their goes that idea for me haha. Just save up for the training and test fee's for the A2 and enjoy gaining as much experience as possible in the mean time, don't forget about the theory inbetween though, best to ensure that by the time you are ready for your module 1 and 2 that both the CBT and theory as well within date (of which by the sounds they will be). I'm yet to do my A2 and currently only have a few months road expierence (with a CBT) on my 125, so I guess you could say attempting to go for a full license with less than 6-7 months on the road is a risk, main one being if it pays of the license will enable to me to have held a "full license" for longer.. hopefully over time bringing down (slowly, if at all) the premium, won't make a huge difference (unlike NCB) but is better than a CBT (witch i'm sure some insurance companies make people pay more for being on). In honesty you've got the better end of the deal as by the time you gain the license you'll have valuable road experience and hopefully some NCB (just form the insurance point of view). Again personally i'm looking towards the A2 as opposed to waiting for the A because of both the insurance quotes and secondly just because a bike is capable of doing 100mph + doesn't mean that you have to, same with the license.. you can get a high powered bike.. but can easily stick with a lower powered one also, has flexibility.. and then upgrade to the A license when you feel your ready for an unrestricted bike.

Just to be the "odd one out" this may be worth noting.. £400 is what a training school would charge you to undergo their training, use their gear and motorbike (any if all needed), however for the A1 it's a little easier to obtain as you can do the module 1 and module 2 tests on your own by booking the tests online and attending the test centre, i'm not sure what bikes can and cannot be used though (and yes you would have to use your own 125cc). The A1 has been debated as pointless by most riders just because the limitations are huge and a cbt offers the same restrictions, bar the obvious removal of the L plates, carrying a pillion and use of the motorway. 125cc's generally aren't powerful enough to keep up at 70mph and if they can it's usually at their limit (depends on bike, some do it better than others), I personally never intend to carry a pillion as biking is generally a solo thing unless with other riders and the L plates are easily sorted.. stick one on the front mud guard and then one on the back (the more problematic one that always falls of and rips). So.. as far as I'm aware the module 1 is £15 and module 2 is £75.. the only other benefit may be that is could bring insurance quotes down over time as opposed to having a CBT and the insurance company factoring you as a bigger risk than you are, also doing the two tests on your own bike may be cheaper than having to retake the CBT until you're 19 (only have to do it once more I think?). I'm guessing that you'd also have to do a theory for the A1 as well, so may be adding up if it's really worth it.

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If it's just a camera your after then the GoPro Hero witch is their basic model I mention can be pruchased via amazon sold by GoPro directly for £94; http://www.amazon.co.uk/GoPro-CHDHA-301 ... ords=gopro Camera Specs & Details; http://shop.gopro.com/EMEA/cameras/hero ... aster.html Bike helmet mount; http://shop.gopro.com/EMEA/mounts/side- ... KE&start=1 Might be worth watching quality test videos on youtube as well as an unboxing to see what comes with it. hope that helps

The simple answer is most decent good quality cameras worth their money come with mounts included with the sale of the camera, usually a double sided sticky pad for the motorbike helmet and a suction cup for the car dashboard (if not then i'm sure the mounts are available as an extra). GoPro or Drift are from what I can tell the two leading manufactures in action cameras at the moment. Be sure to do some research on the needs you have, the basic GoPro can be purchased for £99 however doesn't include an external mic port (if you wanted to do commentary) or as many features as the GoPro Hero 3/+. Looking for one myself and would be interesting to get owners reviews, as far as I can tell the GoPro Hero 3+ provides good quality, features all for an affordable price, also from what I can tell offers better quality than the drift. Comes down to budget to be honest as to what model and brand you get.

https://www.gov.uk/cbt-compulsory-basic ... cbt-course Just a theory and could be completely untrue admitting she's not ready for the road it could be the case she is required to take another CBT test and have her current certificate revoked, or undergo further training, could always ask about it in the complaints letter. I've watched some youtube videos of instructors on youtube, lets just say I question the legitimacy of the certificates half of them produce. https://www.gov.uk/compulsory-basic-tra ... bt-courses (might be of use to see if the school you went with is approved).

I'd purchased the DVD's for the theory and studied them 3-2 weeks prior to the date of the test, retaking questions I kept getting wrong etc. Had my own revision tactics but knowing the meaning of the roads signs as well as general small facts are important, I studied multiple sections doing all questions until I knew them.. turned out that the questions on the actual test are basically near enough word for word as in the DVD, all comes down to common sense with on some questions a little bit of thought process behind the answer. Hazard perception for me was the hardest to study for because the clips on the test aren't guaranteed to be the same as on the DVD, they're all random.. I took a moment inbetween the theory and hazard to compose myself and sat there and got myself into the mind frame of when they wanted you to click and not to often (don't worry about clicking to often and failing a clip, just don't go crazy.. or do it in a pattern). If you have the DVD's just keep repeating mock tests and get to know your stuff, as for the hazard adapt your own technique on each clip. Good luck

My bike being chinese could be why I stick to more of a strict cleaning schedule, for the pipes at least only takes a few minutes.. and indeed not always, usually do it at the end of the night. Also being a naked makes it easier for me to do as opposed to fairings, dependant on bike how easy the process is I guess. Might be worth a mention but underseat electrics might need a spray as well (bit of advice that stuck out while researching the topic previously).

I left it with them this morning as they had a fair amount of work to undertake and my problem was one with what could be many outcomes. I spoke to the mechanic and he said that the clutch had no free play hence why it was always engaged, I then explained that this happened when I found it on saturday going into first and it just got stuck in engaged and that I'd had to botch the adjustment to get it to move and that it wasn't adjusting properly and the lever was just randomly loose etc. I also explained that it's best left for a while and then tried again as after sitting for a while it will look and feel fine but then when you attempt to take of in 1st it will slip again. After the above he said I'd provided him with a decent amount of information on what to look out for and what's happening, awaiting the results of the test ride and to see if it needs anything else doing to it. The mechanics also aware that I've had problems with the gearing and clutch for a long time so wants to ensure there's nothing internally wrong and it runs fine before handing it back over. Shall keep you posted.

+1 On advising against the exhaust until the restriction is up. You may want the exhaust and also take the risk with the plod but in the event of a claim the insurance will soon refuse to pay out based on the fact your bike isn't the one they agreed to insure as it has a different power output, leaving you in all sorts of pickles. The 47.7bhp restriction is a hairy subject on the basis that most people just say "get a convincing piece of paper to show mr plod", although I personally have questioned myself how many times realistically the paper is required to be shown or the bike inspected (unless in a fatal accident). I'd say you could risk it on the street providing you always ride at the speed limit etc and avoid getting pulled over, but would say the insurance is to big of a risk. Do factor in that he is in the job of "sales" after all. But then there's the question of how much the sales people at your insurance company really know about bikes, if you delcare the exhaust to upgrade your quote there's not exactly a red button that comes up saying "over the restriction" you are listed as a full license after all.. it depends if you've declared your restriction?

I had a flashback to when I first started riding and a few months latter there's so many small things here and there that you buy and pick up that you wont even start to predict. £350 is a healthy budget for the gear, means that £70 is your max on each item (Boots, trousers, jackets, gloves, helmet). I only advise taking someone else as I walked into the shop with a pocket full of money and basically paid for what they suggested, needless to say that know i'm upgrading I soon see how useless the gear they sold me at the time is (in terms of level of protection). As for the topbox don't worry about it unless you plan to carry huge amounts of items or want to put everything inside the topbox and then leave the box and unpack it at work when you're done, like a suitcase I guess. I use the following backpack "http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2989071.htm".. cheap, holds my work shoes, locks, and a jacket, fully waterproof (and more, but that's just in the main compartment), and plenty of extra pockets/storage, also has a buckle that goes around your waist once on so no worries about slipping of your shoulders mid ride. Here's the basics for gear looking (if you're going on your own); Helmets - they get loose over time and shape to the size of your head so when trying one on (get someone who works in the shop to help you once you've found a good looking model and affordable to help you) it's best to get a tight fit, shouldn't be able to get any fingers between the top of the helmet and you're forehead and once the buckle is done up properly move the helmet left to right and up and down it shouldn't move without taking your face with it (again make sure someone at the shop does this for you, I must add check check and check again that when the helmet is fastened up on the chin but if you look up and pull the helmet from the chin area up and it moves get a size down as it's not normal, despite J&S telling me it was.. basically first helmet was a XL and my current is ML medium large.. you get the importance, sizes vary dependant on brand and model). Jacket - Ensure it's tight and snug (wear a jumper on the day when trying on if you're going to wear one while riding) and ensure that it has a suitable level of armour and padding on the shoulders and elbows and covers a decent area of the back, ensure that (especially applies to budget options) the protection is not held together inside compartments held together by velcro (like my frank thomas jacket is). Gloves - style, protection, features vary.. honestly down to preference, gortex maybe, something waterproof defiantly, a decent looking knuckle protection area at the very least, as well as some palm and wrist protection (multi fastening gloves work best for me, one Velcro strap around the wrist and another further up the arm). Trousers - Waterproof, thermal layer (if possible), waterproof (a must), decent knee protection and is overall comfortable, ensure the zip mechanism won't get caught in the textile of the trousers and has a strong firm zip (my frank thomas zip broke after two months leaving the trousers useless), multi-zip/locking ways is dependant on trouser. Boots - Ankle protection, toe slider, gear shifter panel (found on the top of the front of the boot, often a patched area stitched on top), rear protection, shin protection, and a decent locking mechanism (mine has a zip and Velcro, often the case on most boots even "high end/expensive" gear) my basic pair of frank thomas boots had all of the above and for I think it was between £70-£80 (all the above features are just things that are integrated into one boot, they'll either have them or they wont and can be found on more sport style boots, best ones IMO even on basic 125 commuter's such as mine). Sorry it's a long reply, hope it helps.

I think I paid £360-£380 for my first full set of gear, so what you get depends on what you're able to spend. Be sure that you don't search ebay for any old motorbike gear as despite the fact you'll find some cheap gear that looks nice the question of size and also comfort is one to ask, I only advise searching ebay for brand names that you've tried on via verified seller to ensure that if you can you get a better deal as J&S don't always charge the cheapest prices. You'll need to ensure you have a bag to put your jacket/overcoat,tie and trousers in or purchase a topbox if you're unable to find one big enough. I wish their was a check-list I could give you with all the advice on what to look out for with each piece of gear, taking someone who rides bikes or even taking your time can prevent you from ending up with buying the equivalent of a lump of coal. Quick tip; get gear with CE approved amour if you can, just means you're not buying something that feels no safer than your bare skin

Is their not even a staff toilet cubical that you could squeeze into and get changed, I wear formal trousers for my job under my textiles and quite often they end up scrunched at the bottom where I tuck them into the boot, you might take the gear off and find a not so tidy look, although folding it in a bag with locks etc would probably do more damage in that aspect. I'm personally in the middle of upgrading from my first set of textiles to a more expensive set makes the world of difference, although the cheap items will see you through until you need to upgrade. As tango said above, everything needs to be tried on.. there's no point going of top or jacket sizez etc becuase they all have armour in, padding etc.. a local shop is the way forward, I use J&S because it's the closest one to me. Ideally you'd want to commute with a jacket/jumper on as well unless you're going to get a jacket that has a thick thermal layer because it can get surprisingly cold at this time of year ot the point of fingertip freezing (i've been there and it's not nice), also waterproof is a must. If you find something you like in the shop then you can take down the name and search ebay, I use sportsbikeshop's ebay store if I've tried the product on and want a cheaper price, looking around can help. Get yourself to a shop and get trying them textiles on, for my first set I went with a frank thomas jacket, trousers, boots, gloves and helmet.. budget option from J&S although not really very much protection in any of the items.. so if you do visit J&S try and stay clear of that brand, really waterproof through the worst of weather and the jacket keeps me warm but I wouldn't want an off in one (not that it's the aim of the game).

As said keep it away from brakes, put an old t-shirt or towel over the discs as best as possible.. and as far as I'm aware the regular process of chain cleaner / chain lube is all that's required to keep the chain maintained (from a liquid point of view). It has been said by other users that it might give of a funny smell when first riding the bike if used on the downpipe or exhaust, mainly because the heats burning it off.. so just be aware of how much if any you put on that area. I find that a simple wipe down of the exhaust can and downpipe keeps it from rusting (best done just after a ride water burns quickly and cleans pipes well).

I wanted similar advice after spilling chain cleaner/lube all over my rear wheel side-wall and rim.. I just wiped the excess of the side-wall with a towel and left the rim. Although it was advised in my case that warm soapy water should do the job, although I'm instantly guessing that it depends on how long the lube has been on the rim (as I noticed mine near enough straight after finishing the lubing process).

Only thing I'd question is the flip up helmet, as long as it's comfortable and has all the features you require then all is well. Again with the gear depends on personal preference, as long as you feel warm, protected and is easy to use then all is well. Personally would of gone for the oxford boss disc lock or alarm lock as opposed to that one although oxford locking mechanics can be funny and cause problems at times so has it's plus and it's minus, not sure what length chain you have gone with but I have both a 1 meter and 1.5 meter chain and find that both come in handy as sometimes the 1 meter doesn't always enable me to reach the street furniture when required. Glad you went with some foot protection over non though, good choice. Enjoy your new ride

Lexmoto Arrow (que the chinese jokes ) The clutch lever on the engine case works fine and moves as it should however was stuck pulled in/engaged when I first found the clutch lever issue Saturday. A tighten of the screw/nut that keeps the lever in position and a few fine adjustments on the handlebar end has kept the bike on a limb for now, I'm going to the shop tomorrow to get it looked at as the adjustments I'm making on the clutch lever seem to be giving the same amount of free play, seems like it's not adjusting properly. The clutch lever was sticking and wouldn't disengage at first and has also been a little stick after the above adjustments, took some time to get it to fall back into it's natural position after being pulled in, even now it falls back but not entirely (only a small gap between fully closed and the position in ends up in). I've checked the clutch cable on the engine case while riding and isn't stuck in being engaged (although I'm sure I'd know about this pretty quick if it was even without looking). There is one of a few possibilities as to the cause of the sudden looseness and inability to function/tighten; 1) A part is broken or is slowly on it's way out 2) I've knocked it and been unaware and has slowly come loose 3) after a conversation today there is a chance that someone has attempted to make the bike unusable after a bike using the same parking bays was attempted stolen (didn't get took thankfully). I did think it was strange that the lever could come loose by itself (after being worked on and being used) with the third option being found out today I'll be sure to mention it to the dealership however struggle to understand why if this was the case they didn't (or from what it looked like) attempt to try anything else. I've made it there and back on my usual commute and have all day tomorrow to let the shop work on it, i'll be sure to update on the outcome. Thanks tango