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Doing a Module 1 at this time of the year is the needle in the haystack at trying to guess what the weather will be like, with my first ever attempt at Module 1 this morning I got on the test pad thankfully to a brake in the weather (heavy crosswinds and rain) got my U-Turns, Figure of 8 etc out of the way before the wind came back however a sudden gust caught me out on the emergency stop and buggered my approach to the bend both on entry and exit, ended up being 5mph to slow and also didn't stop in a "safe distance".. instant fail Advice being.. take your time, grip the tank with your knees and just use any approach or space required for the figure of 8. Ensure when you approach the bend that you're only doing about 19/20mph as advised... and ONLY open the throttle when your in a straight line, I attempting to twist the throttle while lining up for the entry to the speed trap and messed up my appraoch. As said, better to get experience rather than bail out. Good luck

Posted a similar topic recently (elsewhere) and the answers I got back where; - Grip tank with knee's - Maintain a 30-40mph speed (basically a constant higher speed, 30-40 really isn't a magic number) - Relax upper body and arms (weigh no more than a feather, no pushing force completely relaxed) - Stick either you right/left knee out (whatever direction the wind is coming from) After that feedback I awoke the next day to see rain and high winds, gripped the tank and relaxed the body and helped, doesn't change the fact that riding a naked 125 in high exposed wind A roads is still scary, avoid unless needed or caught out in it (ie; commute to work.. if a social ride and weather changed return home or wait until better lighted weather). Corners are a little tricky, I had a wobble and put my foot down when leaving a mini-roundabout on a backroad because the wind tried to take the bike from under me.. expect the un-expected.. also bailed out on a constant bend because the wind was hitting my chest and felt to unsafe, pulled over and took a rest.. and carried on when safe to do so. As for cars you get the good and the bad.. after I had that wobble I did a shoulder check to see who was behind me, noticed the car dropping back.. although others have tailgated me and overtook, you get both.. just focus on keeping upright. Don't fight the steering as mad as it sounds the more you attempt to retain a straight line by steering input the more the wind will make it harder for you, resulting in panic etc.. allow the bike to do as it pleases and light inputs only, if the wind is blowing you towards the centre line attempt to return to position 2 when safe.

Any feedback on the Boots.. general comfort, fitting, walking around in them, quality of zips etc? Tried them on in J&S quickly and couldn't make my mind up, design wise looked ok but my mind changed slightly when I tried them on.. didn't feel %100 (fitting wise) in terms of how they felt on the foot.

Not if broken down from what I read. Remove spark plug, fuze or battery?

10 Minutes away isn't worth the hastle and trouble you'd get into if caught, far to much risk. Can't you just go there on foot and sit on the thing and use your feet to push it along the pavement until you get home.. with the temptation to turn the thing on and ride it if you approach a steep hill. Wishful thinking?

Few months ago I started riding and did the same thing.. avoided engine breaking and just pulled the clutch in and down shifted, although got me in all sorts of problems when I was in the wrong gear and traffic started moving again, wasn't pleasant. Got bored one day and decided to use count-steering and engine breaking to improve my riding, now I've discovered engine breaking I really don't think there is any other way to slow down.. of course there's the odd occasion where I miss 2nd gear going up.. or miss match the revs going down.. it happens to all of us. As for roundabouts.. indicate to leave the roundabout after the exit before the one you want to take.. taking the 2nd exit indicate after passing the 1st exit.. life saver if switching lanes and also to watch any traffic from the entry to the roundabout just before your exit. Really to understand where mirror checks or lifesavers are appropriate you need to do some learning, lessons is one way but if you want to go it alone then use the "Module 2 riders test experiences" in the CBT section also watch people like "RoadCraftNottingham" on youtube and watch riders undergoing actual Module 2 training.

A quick google search of your bike to see what it looks like and the first link was to tesco with "currently no sellers".. my guess they've stopped being imported and parts dropped, I'd change out to another chinese brand eg; lexmoto whenever possible, will make life and part searching a lot easier, anyway.. CMPO (Chinese motorcycle parts online) stock a range of parts, non for your brand of bike unfortunately but may be worth a look; http://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/ I'm not sure if you have the models number? Lexmoto have a SK125-8 and SK125-22.. the SK125-8 (lexmoto ZSB) is currently being imported and parts haven't been made available yet, might be worth keeping an eye on when it does.. looks like the cloest model like for like to take a chance on; http://www.lexmoto.co.uk/SK125-8.php - Lexmoto Arrow - Lexmoto Street - Lexmoto ZSF ^ All basically look the same as the pictures you provide.. just a different speedometer design. I own the Arrow, and have the following; http://www.lexmoto.co.uk/HT125-4F_parts ... 125-4F.php If all that fails.. then use the link below to find the closest lexmoto dealership to you, explain the brand of bike you have.. and inquire if the speedometers are able to be swapped out, to me it should be as easy as wiring it correctly.. they should be able to advise either way. http://www.lexmoto.co.uk/dealers.php

Interesting to see how that effects retail prices of the bikes, doesn't effect 125cc's thankfully from what I read. Now and then could be the time to get a bargain before prices go up, although surely the current models will be reduced to clear stock when new models are bought out?

I started to study and booked my theory the same month I did my CBT, and at this point.. didn't own a bike and had only the CBT road experience to gain an understanding of what everything meant. Used the DVD to study of a couple of weeks and passed first time.. all in all if you've been on the roads for a while there shouldn't be anything greatly difficult to answer. Hazard perception is the one to get used to.. in terms of when to click.. Be a breeze, good luck.

Observe, Observe, Observe! Park your bike facing the test pad when you arrive at the centre and locate the motorbike parking (makes it easier on yourself). Do a lifesaver over both your left and right shoulder before attempting each part of the test, including taking your bike form the parking space to the test pad. Everything the examiner tells you to do, lifesaver both ways before doing.. but the bike in neutral at all times inbetween maneuver while s/he is talking. U-Turn.. life saver both ways slow control forward.. shoulder check (left shoulder if turning left, vis versa) and then perform the turn. Manual handling make sure you look all around before moving the bike and again when it's on the side stand in the opposite box, also ensure you put the bike (facing the fence/wall) into the right hand box this way you get to stand to the left of the bike and take it's weight making it much easier to move into the other box. Never.. attempt any part of the test without making observations before hand, if the examiner hasn't witnessed you do your shoulder checks (ie; walking across the test pad) then do them again to demonstrate you know what your doing.. All in all seems silly and un-needed as you now it's just you and him/her.. but is a requirement of the test. Good luck

Very nice.. Do you use this to commute daily through all weathers or is it a bit of fun on the fields or the occasional trip to the shop? Interested in possibly changing out to a supermoto as I'm 6ft 1 and they're more "full sized".. although not sure of there suitability as a everyday machine. Admittedly the chinese supermoto I'd be looking at wouldn't be as half as nice as this

The above quote answers your own question in regards to why you're appear to be doing so badly. I had the same mindset upon studying at first, learn reflecting in the windows of houses on a junction means a cars approaching etc.. all useless, you just need to learn when the system wants you to click, review the scoring system for each clip and study it, provides you with the best chance.. learn the gaps between the scoring system and how long in seconds you can risk it, without this.. there is no pass, I don't know what people who don't identify this do in honesty. One step at a time, Module 1 and Module 2 mean nothing for now, focus on the theory and nothing else.. study, study, study. Oh, and good luck

+1 On the K3 SV.. Before buying watched a review on revzilla that said if you're in the market for a K3 then the K3 SV is a complete overhaul and the much better choice, never looked back. I do find the pinlock somewhat distracting though because it's only the main part as opposed to the whole thing (think of it as wearing glasses and looking outside of the lens) can be distracting but you get used to it, in comparison to my first and previous helmet.. it's changed the way I ride and made it much safer, less time spend messing around lifting it up and down in the rain (just wipe it as you would any other). The vents are effective, I often leave the chin vent open by false of habit.. soon end up with a cold face while going along at speed on a winters day, really must leave them closed, can only imagine the world of good when the sun comes around. As said comes with a sunvisor (that I actually got to use on a early morning commute), didn't think it made the difference originally but then I lifted it up and put it straight back down, not to dark must be added.. also the mechanism is easier to put it down than it is to lift (very stiff). Also the hi-viz version soon gets peoples attention when out and about.

It sounds to me like your either commuting to our through London and want to know how to get to where you're going the quickest way possible.. that is without being stuck in all the tailbacks (never been to London so can't comment on traffic, only going by youtube videos). At London specificity I'd advise (in theory.. as I haven't been there) either get a satnav (if you're on a CBT/125cc) that has bluetooth and then a bluetooth headset.. and that way for the first few rides you can get to know your route. On a bigger bike/motorways, well.. it's one long straight road of continuously merging traffic, now your junctions and surroundings and you'll eventually over time increase the time it takes you to get to where your going, although you can't U-Turn on the hard shoulder and go back to the last junction exit if traffic is at a standstill because there's been an accident and the motorway is closed so be warned you might end up stuck for a while. As for filtering and lane splitting only do this once you've gained complete control of your machine, in London (again based on videos) unless you want to set off in 2015 and arrive in 2020 filtering is required, make sure you move out of the way for the regular bikers though.. you'll soon spot them (here one second gone the next). Also be aware that I wouldn't advise filtering a whole bunch on a unknown route, the more you take it the more confidence you'll gain and learn the points where idiot drivers regularly occur, although never get to confident, only after a bit of time would I attempt to start cutting through traffic, of course the standard jumping the que at red lights can be done anywhere. Any help?

I sense as much, although it does now enable me with a estimated budget to attempt to start saving for if ever I wanted to change to a different 125, Honda CBF, Yamaha YZF etc.. all second hand of course, for now I'll stick with one step at a time. I guess you could call it a short term sacrifice to allow for more enjoyment in my mid 20's going into my 30's (if I'm still riding by then).. hopefully doing my A1 license now and having a "full license" on record for 4-5 years will make upgrading to a bigger bike a piece of cake in terms of insurance as opposed to what it would after only my first year on the roads, all for the future. Also £100 for both tests if passed first time v's £250.50 for one attempt and not a guaranteed pass, have to weigh up the options and go with the better one for me personally, I could also resit both tests and still come out having spent less money than the above. Thanks, although it's at the end of the month I'll be sure to make a post or something along the lines

No, if I could afford lessons then I would of continued with my plans for the A2 as they're not all that different in overall prices. I'd say that for now £15.50 is a small price to pay to test my skill with a chance of getting half way towards the license, doing it with my own bike that I've used through winter and had all my present riding experience on in theory will provide me with the best chance of passing. I've watched Module 1 videos extensively both from riders and training instructors taking notes on the best way to get through each step, shoulder check constantly from what I can tell is one that goes without saying from the moment that you first turn your bike on to go into the test area. As what you mention in regards to riding, I agree.. just because I can go out and about on the roads and ride how I see fit doesn't mean that i'm always in the correct road position etc.. depending on how the Module 1 goes I shall do as much preparation for the Module 2 as possible, watching training videos, brush up on road markings and knowledge etc.

Update.. I couldn't justify the prices for the Module 2 training so have gone for the cheaper option of booking a Module 1 attempt for the A1 license using my own 125 for the 31st of this month. Best get practising.

Birmingham I've just started this post; viewtopic.php?f=47&t=56237&p=880075#p880075 Strongly considering using my 125 to go for an A1 and then getting a full A when I'm 24.. can't justify those prices.

20 in may.. so four years and a bit?

Hi, I have somewhat of a situation regarding what motorbike license would really make more financial sense to attempt to obtain and be better to get in the long run, I only ever commute through my town/city centre and at most use 40mph roads, no motorways, not interested in pillions, my bike is simply to get me to and from work and of course the social sunny rides. Reason that I want a license at all is so that I don't have to complete my theory or take another CBT again, also adding a full license to my insurance policy reduces the cost a little (already phone company ahead of time and checked), also makes more sense in my mind for future insurance quotes to have obtained or held a full license for longer and hopefully would (ever so slightly) contribute to insurance quotes being less (viewed as more of a sensible rider having received the training etc). Anyhow my original plan was to get an A2 license meaning that when I felt I had enough road experience and insurance costs allowed I would trade my 125 in and get something with more power and be happy as larry, however after a phone call to the training school I planned to go with the cost of the Module 1 and training alone has increased to £250.50 (as opposed to a maximum of £170) due to the minimum training required before being allowed to attempt the test. The above has kind of given me a culture shock as to if the A2 would even make sense to attempt given the type of riding that I do. My other option and the more appealing option witch is a new idea to me after not really thinking the above prices are justifiable is to take the Module 1 and Module 2 on my own 125 (lexmoto arrow) and still end up with a full license that more than meets my needs and allows me to do all the riding I require. As far as I am aware booking the two modules when using your own bike only costs the following (correct me below if I'm wrong); Module 1 - £15.50 Module 2 - £75 So all in all.. as it stands I think attempting both the Module 1 and Module 2 on my arrow is a considerably cheaper option and would cost less than the training and one attempt at the module 1 for the A2 would (I could have to attempts at both modules for less than the price of one attempt at module 1 for the A2). Advantages for me personally of an A1; - less than £100 for one attempt at both Module 1/2 - Enables me to gain a full license - More sensible option (financially) Any reason than gaining an A1 license and waiting until I'm 24 to get a full A license is less of a better choice as opposed to do the A2 and then A? Thanks.

Looks like training on an empty car park it is, they're still the cheapest company to go with but after a quick phone call (a day and a half passed with no email response to my inquiry) it turns out that the original information I was provided with wasn't correct, they require you to do at least a day and a half worth of training before you can sit your Module 1 test. Originally it worked out at £165.50 .. a very reasonable price. Now it's more like.. £250.50 And the end of April is the earliest available dates for tests to be set. 1 Step forward 10 steps back

Thanks, I gave it a quick read through and have taken some mental notes, times much appreciated. After a comment about the clutch control being different on a bigger bike as opposed to my 125 honestly the base case scenario to practice for the test is do it in a controlled environment with a trainer, as much as doing it before hand on my 125 would teach me the general rule of thumb it doesn't mean it would be any where near the same experience considering power and weight differences. There's a plus and a minus with the way that I plan to do it, ultimately i'm going in without any expectations and using the first training / attempt at Mod 1 as a way to gain experience.. I might as well pay an extra £15.50 at the end of the day to attempt the real thing rather than another £150 to include an extra days training, leaves me less time to get worried and think about things and also will ensure all training is fresh in my head. I just hope their training isn't cheap for all the wrong reasons

So when I started the ride home from work all was well and I felt no different from any other ride, however part the way home noticed my concentration was slipping and was quite tired, going out to a pub with some friends for a couple of hours so new that I'd have the chance to get food and drinks to wake me up for the few mile ride home. Pulled into a petrol station to take a few second rest brake before continuing less than a mile up the road (also needed to go through the petrol station to get onto the opposite side of the road) to my destination, pulled up to the dipped kerb.. saw lights in the distance and decided they where far enough away to pull out and get on my way, quickly had some ar*ehole young looking driver who felt the need to get right up my arse.. pull along side me and stick his middle finger out the window, only to speed off lock up his brakes towards a red light and then swerve into the right lane only to do a u-turn and carry on in the opposite direction. Probably misjudged the speed of the cars as it was dark and I had become really quite tired but his driving was beyond me.. if I was a betting man I'd put my money on the fact he was travelling far to quickly, seems the warmer weather has increased the amount of as*holes on the road.

Another reason for me to go for my A2 as opposed to falling back on what's easy and taking another one days training course. I had about a three-four month gap between taking my CBT and riding 10 miles home on my own from the dealership, it all came back to me but I had to be pretty ballsy to cope with major A roads and routes into the city centre, thankfully it was quiet and I had room to make mistakes.. god knows what I looked like on that first ride home or what my lane domination, gear shifts etc where like.. but four months on I'd personally say that throwing myself in the deep end and commuting in all weathers, times of day and traffic has increased my ability to improve as a rider as opposed to keeping it indoors and taking the bus etc. I do however think that the CBT is a quick way of some training schools making quite a bit of money, I've watched videos on youtube in horror of the training provided and questioned the legitimacy of a piece of paper issued by a middle aged man in a tracksuit in some random car-park. As it stands IMO the CBT is not sufficient to teach new and young riders (especially) how to control a bike in a safe manor on the roads, like I said for me I threw myself into the deep end with as much confidence as possible however don't feel that everyone could learn this way. It wouldn't go a miss to have the training provided by a school and then a test to gain the CBT, a more serious approach as opposed to anyone tom dick and harry approach to putting people on the roads wouldn't go a miss, I think when I take my A2 Module 1 (hopefully soon) it might be a bit of a culture shock as to how serious it all is as opposed to my CBT. My work mates couldn't believe that at the start of the day I had never ever touched a bike before and then by the end of it had a license to go out on the roads providing I had the money.

Update; Just spoke to the insurance company (MCE) and she wanted to know what date I'd gain the license, obviously explained that it was hard to judge because you have to pass one to pass another.. gave a rough date of may 1st at the latest (considering I want to attempt the mod 1 soon). Turns out I struck gold brings the premium down by £24.79 and would only require a £15.71 payment to add that information with the policy, that's including the admin fee. She did say that quote would only be valid for the next 7 days, obviously I couldn't take it out as tempting as it is because you cant predict the future and could cost more if I was or wasn't to gain the license earlier or latter. Aalthough I think the payments stay the same (as I pay monthly )as they've taken that reduction of the admin fee by the sounds of it, so all in all £15.71, result in comparison to the £40 for a front sprocket adjustment I paid