Hoody

Sounds very much like air/fuel mix, especially if some choke helps it. Have you checked the airbox? If you have stashed something under the seat (waterproofs?) over the intake this could cause it. The other thing is if an animal has got in there and died - if it's been garaged and a hybernating animal has decided to make a winter condo for itself......!

Wheel bearings too - check them, had a similar isue on a Blackbird.

Could be that you take your hands off the 'bars??!!?

Get two piece zip together - far more practical - especially in Summer, and you can mix/match with textiles at a later date if you want to (think Future-Proofing!) Nothing worse in high summer than being stuck in a full baby-grow at a meet or race etc. With a 2 pce you can unzip and take jacket off.

I am a member of both IAM and RoSPA. I hold a class 1 motorcycle certificate and I examine for RoSPA (cars and bikes) First thing first - Once you have a full licence it is the right time to get further training. This is an ongoing thing and never stops, we still get re-tested annually. You never stop learning. So forget this 'I only have 2000 miles experience' nonsense, the best time to learn is as soon as possible - particularly before getting into bad habits! RoSPA and IAM both teach to the same standards, those of RoadCraft, although IAM have 're-written' there own version. It is exactly the same system, it has to be! IAM - once passed is for life which IMO gives little incentive to keep on top of things hence bad habits can creep in if the rider doesn't remain part of the group post test. RoSPA - Graded test, Bronze/Silver/Gold and a retest every 3 years. The gradings can't be compared to IAM pass/fail - a rider could be any of the 3 grades under IAM but the pass is just a pass. Under RoSPA Gold is a candidate who would do well on a Polcie Advanced course, Silver someone who understands the system but lacks 'polish', not as smooth/slick as they could be. A bronze is one who applies the system most of the time and is above that of a DfT rider. IAM and RoSPA are both run by volunteers who have proved themselves with the discipline - there is no commercial gain. There will be a joining fee for whichever is your local group, but after that all you pay is your tutors petrol when you go out. The choice is yours really, do one, then the other, if you do IAM, keep up with the skills learnt and apply voluntarily every couple of years for re-test, if you go RoSPA you get that any way.

BikeSafe launch was at Humber bridge and there was a memorial run in Scunthorpe

BUMP!

http://www.bikesafe.co.uk/Bikesafe/Bike ... erside.htm

Yes, you do stick to speed limits. It is about safety and getting the most out of your riding, and giving a taste of what advanced riding is about. The strap line is 'Bridging the Gap' between basic riding and advanced. You get assessed on your riding and advice on how to improve requisite parts of your riding. You will gain a massive amount from it.

Like the title says! Humberside BikeSafe Scheme launches at the north side car park of the Humber Bridge on Sunday 25 April. Commences 1000am and will have local motorcycle dealers and other stands on site. SMART Rider will be running manoeuverability test (for fun!) Humberside and South Yorkshire Police, IAM and RoSPA advanced motorcyclists will be present and will take riders out for assesment rides, offering a taste of advanced riding, assesment and tips to help Bridge the Gap between initial test and further training. This will be a great family biking day out, all are invited and everything is FREE!

You really need to consider comms to your helmet as the screens, even on the larger ones like the Zumo 660 are difficult to see in some light and you take your eyes off the road to read them - often at a time when you most need to concentrate - when you are lost! I find that I fllow the spoken instructions rather than the screen tbh

Here's an abstract from Grampian Police press release for the commencement of the 2010 season -Figures will be roughly the same nationally, and the advice is good As spring fast approaches and you start thinking about digging out your leathers, helmet and boots can I ask you to pause for a moment before you go any further and consider the following. Bikers are one of the smallest road user groups in the UK and form about 1% of total road users. Nationally however, we are one of the largest groups associated with road traffic collisions, making up about 20% of those killed or seriously injured. In the last five years 37 bikers have been killed and over 268 seriously injured on roads in the North East of Scotland. During 2009, of the 31 people who lost their lives in road traffic collisions, 8 of them were on a bike, that's 26% or 1 in 4. Sadly already in 2010, we have seen our first fatality, and we are fast approaching double figures for those who have been seriously injured. For all these collisions no single cause has been responsible, however time and time again, it 's the same few rider behaviours which catch folk out and lead to serious or fatal consequences. · Too fast · Inappropriate overtaking · Poor positioning · Poor observations What can you do? Before you turn the key and the excitement and enjoyment take over, take a moment to stop and reflect on what you are about to do and what rules you are going to set yourself. Sometimes the simple things are the ones we forget first, so here's a bit of help. · Bike maintenance - Look after your bike and it'll look after you. After months of it sitting in the garage or shed take the time to have your bike checked over and serviced properly. · Wear the right kit - All the gear, all of the time, even for short trips. It may cost a little more, but wearing proper equipment all the time will make a difference. · Slow down - It's a speed limit, not a target. Contrary to popular belief, speed limits are set for safety . The major causation in 1 in 5 of all motorcycle collisions is too much speed. · Be seen - Use your headlight & Hi Viz kit. During any journey make yourself as visible as you can, ride with your lights on and wear something that makes you stand out. · Don't take unnecessary risks when overtaking, if in doubt hold back. Evaluate before you overtake - look for hazards. · Bends require skill - Position, Speed, Gear. Position yourself safely in the right place, at the right speed and with the right gear engaged for every bend. Remember we have had a long winter and grit and debris are common on rural roads. · Always ride defensively - Expect the unexpected, don't take things for granted, read the road and other road users. · Get some extra training - Bikes are performing better all of the time, are you? The best performance modification you can make to any motorcycle is to improve the skills of its rider. What are we doing about it? During 2010, Road Safety Grampian, along with the association of motorcycle dealers for the North East of Scotland, Moray, Aberdeen and Aberdeenshire Councils, the North East Camera Safety Partnership and Aberdeenshire Community Safety Partnership will launch and support Operation Zenith which will look to engage, educate and where necessary, enforce these simple rules. What else can you do? Acquire some extra skills. To help you to get more from your biking, we will again be running Bikesafe in association with the IAM (Institute of Advanced Motorcyclist) . These one day courses cost £20 and can be booked through Road Safety Grampian. For more information go to the Grampian Police website, or if your are unable to attend a Bikesafe course, contact IAM directly and arrange further training through them. In conjunction with the North East Safety Camera Partnership (NESCAMP), Moray and Aberdeenshire Roads Authorities we have identified three good biking routes which have been ridden by the Grampian Police Motorcycle Section. These routes have been checked from a biker's perspective and commentary on them and how to ride them safely will be added to the 'aroundthecorner' website in the near future. This site will also give you similar routes across Scotland, along with other relevant motorcycling information. During the course of this summer our Road Safety staff will be out and about at the various 'tea stops', so take the opportunity to speak to them and get some advice on how to get the most from your biking. Operation Zenith will run for the whole of the biking season during 2010, if you want more information on it please go to the Grampian Police website (http://www.grampianpolice.org) or Around the Corner website (http://www.aroundthecorner.org.uk ) or ask at your local motorbike dealer. Before you turn the key..... think! Thanks Jim Wood Road Policing Inspector

Try being sympathetic to the gearbox and slip it into second rather than 'smashing' it. You will end up with a broken gear box at that rate. When you power up in first, roll the throttle off momentarily as you snick it into second and let the clutch out before rolling the throttle back. Leaving the revs on will not allow the gears to synch and the teeth on the gears will smash into each other eventually smashing the cogs/gearbox.

I gotta say I love both the colours for the 1250!

Looks like the old GSX600F from c.1989 Test rode one of these way back then in those colours - First 600 I ever rode! http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r183/Hoody_photo/gsx600f1988.jpg http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r183/Hoody_photo/2010-suzuki-gsx-650f.jpg

Don't wanna pee on the bonfire, but if the hole around the bolt rots you could have a lethal projectile under the pressure of the exhaust gases.

You need to display them until you pass your test. CBT allows you to ride on the road as a learner. You must then take the motorcycle test and pass this. You cannot ride a bike over 125cc or carry a passenger until you pass your test.

Tends to be a thinner oil from the factory as I said, to wash the swarf out. The fresh oil will be the recommended oil for the machine, thicker and better quality. I was out in the snow today, was just pleased it didn't settle!

Run it for longer distances and the emulsification in the oil should go. It is short runs that does it. The original oil will clean the internals out of any swarf etc. Change it (get it dealer serviced to be on safe side) at 1000k and they should check all tolerances etc. The running in period should give a chance for any minor niggles (your whistling for example) to be identified and all sorted at first service. Run it and get some miles on it - the sound may even disappear!

You need to force oil through the system - trying to remember how, I have a shaft now! - you need to unfasten the tube from the reservoir and use a bottle of scottoiler with the narrow nozzle shoved into the tube end. Massage the bottle until oil runs out of the nozzle onto the chain. Quickly reattached to the reservoir

Scottoiler - probably let it run low/empty and needs repriming, or nozzle is blocked if bike not been run for a while

Well me for a starter! Flatlands or mountains? Deutschland, Deutschland uber alles!

I'd normally go for black, but there are already a lot of SV 650's around Blue one at least looks sporty even if it isn't a Kawasaki or Honda

Been said before, but fit is more important than cost/make. £200 is a decent price, Shark are a good brand. If it fits and you are happy then go for it. It'll be on your bonce for 5 years so make sure it's comfy!

POWDER check your bike at least once a week (preferably before each ride) P-Petrol. Enough for journey, fresh. O-Oil. Check oil level and if low top up following manufacturers recommendations. Use only the correct oil (not car oil). W-Water. Check coolant level. Top up using pre-mix coolant or water if none available. Also other liquids such as clutch and brake fluid levels. D-Drive and Damage. Check drive, either chain (sprockets also) for wear. Retension if necessary. If shaft drive check oil reservoir in drive shaft. Check for any damage all round machine - lever ends, plastics, bolts such as spindle bolts and headstock (not exhaustive list) E-Electrics. Check lights, horn, indicators. Check levels on battery (unless sealed unit) R-Rubber. Check tyre pressure. Check tyre tread depth (legal minimum 1mm!!?). Check valve for damage, ensure the valve cap is in place (preferably a metal one as this creates the seal to keep the air in). Check side walls and tread for damage. Seems a lot but it only takes 2-5 minutes. Could save your life.