Ingah

After being in exactly your situation a year or so ago i rang Almax up. He recommended the 1.5m as the 2m is going to be more faff than it's worth (not his words, but i got what he meant). The Almax chains are very heavy and so the extra weight and size of the 2m will make it alot more trouble. I've been happy with my 1.5m to this day and would recommend that size myself. You don't need to worry about it being too long as far as more surface area to attack though, it can be "threaded through" (for want of a better term) at any point to shorten it down to the desired length. I think that if you're going to bother using an Almax chain you should make a point of putting the chain through the frame of the bike, and also anchoring to an immovable and solid object, as otherwise your bike will simply be lifted into the waiting van. You'll need more than 0.7m for that.

A little while ago i bought some radiator coolant flushing liquid from Halfords (something like this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_166188_langId_-1_categoryId_165750), as my CB5 has been getting very very hot whilst in traffic (had to stop the engine a couple of times to prevent it overheating) and the fan doesn't always come on to keep the temp down. The bike is very old and was very run-down before i started fixing everything, so it's probably just a case of old coolant, so i'm finally getting around to replacing it. I'm planning to use that flushing stuff to clean out the coolant system, and instructions are to drain the system, refill and add the coolant flushing stuff, run the bike as normal for 20-30 miles, and then drain it again before refilling as before. I just wondered if anyone knew if it is safe to: 1) Run the bike with the coolant flusher in it for longer distances (nearer 50 miles - 2 trips of 25 miles) as then i wouldn't have to go on a needless ride (fuel is expensive and i've got stuff to do!) 2) Leave it for about a week with the coolant flusher in it, before draining the system again to fill as normal (the bike is kept outside, i can cover it if necessary). I'm worried about it potentially freezing up and cracking open the coolant system, and also the possibility that the flushing solution shouldn't be in there for so long. And also, if i'm supposed to put in water with the coolant flusher, or engine coolant, as the instructions don't make that clear?

http://www.motorbikealarm.co.uk/node/43 £6.99, free postage AFAIK, it's the one i use.

I feel your pain, i got done over in almost exactly the same way early this year (bought a bike from a dealer over the phone, and ended up having to do lots and lots of repair work to the "excellent condition" advertised bike) - i find it quite disgusting how many people are willing to sell bikes in a downright poor condition, at top whack prices. Regarding the garage, it sounds to me like they've just reported problems as they've found them, probably not doing a full investigation because you haven't asked for one (it would take them alot more time after all). Although on the other hand, if they are advising the replacement of parts i'd very much hope they've ascertained those particular parts are causing the problem first. I'd be more angry at the seller though (not that i think you can do much about it if it's a private sale - and even if it's a dealer you're usually still screwed as i found). If you're looking at saving money on further repairs it's worth finding a decent independant mechanic, as they'll probably charge about half of Honda dealers. Another idea is to ask for some parts to be replaced with a 3rd party pattern part rather than a genuine Honda part - could be as little as a third of the price (NB: Depends on what you're replacing, as some pattern parts are apparently a waste of money - maybe you'd best take the advice of their mechanics as to what this could apply to). If you're really determined to save money it may be worth trying to cautiously investigate the problem yourself, with the aid of a Haynes manual, a multimeter, and some basic tools to get the panels off (all of which can be obtained relatively cheaply). Hope that helps.

Was on Busters website trying to purchase a brake line but i was just hoping someone can give me a quick pointer as to which one i actually need/would want out of these: 1 front line with alloy fittings. 1 front line with cad fittings. 1 front line with chrome fittings. 1 front line with stainless steel fittings. It's for a CB500.

I planned to check them today if i have the time (going uni tomorrow so have to prepare). I reckon they have blown. It's just that i've read online that bulbs blowing is another possible symptom of a faulty regulator/rectifier, and that the biker at work was confident it's my reg/rect at fault with the starting problem, and he didn't know that the bulbs were blowing too.

By pure randomness the bike is starting every time again, and the horn has started to work again (?). However, my brake light is still not working, and my headlamp sidelight has also stopped working now. I've done a few more tests anyway: Clutch safety switch when measured with a multimeter doesn't seem to be working properly - i seem to get random fluctuating values going through, both when the clutch is pulled all the way in or out (no noticeable change to values)! Have re-tested the regulator/rectifier (in diode test mode this time) - i do suspect this part causing a problem because my bulbs seem to be failing: - probe to A, + to B: 501 - probe to A, + to C: 506 - probe to A, + to D: 502 - probe to A, + to E: 781 - probe to B, + to E: 500 - probe to C, + to E: 497 - probe to D, + to E: 501 Those are all the combinations that gave a reading. NB: Reading sometimes seemed to spend a little while fluctuating before it settled - it's the settled reading i've taken. The haynes says the range is 500-1.5k i think - but it does say to ask Honda to check. Will do the sidestand safety switch later - it was too dark to spend long on it last night!

Haven't done that as of yet colin. However a guy at work today was confident that it's my regulator/rectifier and so I have removed the regulator/rectifier from the bike and my multimeter in resistance mode isn't picking up anything between any of the terminals, including the ones that should show a measurement. Does this mean my regulator/rectifier is what's causing my intermittent starting problem? If so it looks like an ebay job. Edit: Have read on the internet to put my multimeter into "Diode test" mode when testing the regulator/rectifier, which i didn't do (as above, had it in resistance-measuring mode). So i've since tested again - results to follow in next post.

Just an update in case anyone was wondering: 1) Ignition barrel has been fitted (Honda pattern part, £35 new) and so that problem is well and truly solved. 2) It is the speedo drive in the front wheel hub that is knackered, so i am currently keeping an eye on eBay for a second hand replacement as Honda want £60 for a "genuine Honda" replacement (!) 3) As previously explained, bar end needed adjusting in light of the bike's fall. So that's that lot nearly sorted. Of course, i have a new problem to contend with now http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24990 As well as my front brake hose needing replacement too (it's flexing a little, and making the brake a bit spongy). Not having a good time with this, am i?

Well i had the ignition barrel changed this morning (professional). But the problem was occuring before this too. I think i changed the air filter about a week ago? (me) I don't think i've done anything else recently, and definately nothing electrical (this battery change was the first electric thing i've ever done). Yes it does seem to be some sort of connection problem. Have decided to take it down (probably have to push it again. *sigh*) to my local garage before work, hoping that they can shed some light on it. My wallet is cringeing already... It might be telling when i go to take it tomorrow - i live at the top of a very steep hill so maybe i can get some proper speed up and try to bump start it again...

Checked the starter relay. Accidentally let it touch the wire next to it, which caused a loud pop, a spark, and the bike's engine to start turning over. Suprising that happened as the ignition is off. Made mental note to be more careful and went on to check that relay. It seems to be clicking only intermittently (rarely). Not sure what this means but haynes wants me to test it with a multimeter. Edit: Have given up for tonight as it's so dark and the haynes got too complicated.

On finally getting it started (no the problem isn't fixed I just got lucky this time), i've found the rear brake light doesn't seem to work and neither is the horn working. Engine off, engine on with no problem again, now off again. And now it's refusing to start once more. grr. . Am running through that section on the haynes now. . .

Have also checked fuses as per haynes manual, and they appear fine. Still nothing

I've got fuel. It's not the kill switch on by accident. The problem is occuring constantly, although it does seem to be fine and start as normal on a very rare occasion. It is silent either way Frankie. Any more ideas? I have replaced the battery and it's still the same.

I've had nothing but problems with my CB500. The latest is that I am now sat on the bike waiting for homestart breakdown to arrive as ignition lights are on, but engine won't get started. The starter button results in silence. With bump starting it gets as far as making a turning over noise but will not fire up. Maybe i'm destined to ride my trusty old CG forever (now there's a scary thought). Does anyone care to make a stab at what's broken?

Does anyone have any recommendations for rubber gloves I could use when getting my hands dirty working on the bike? I'm looking at cheap, and think reusables may be better because i'd only need to buy them once!

My bad re. the throttle, misunderstood the way the bar ends / throttle fits together! I took all the bits off the bike trying to disconnect and lubricate the cable, but got stuck as it seemed i needed to remove the carbs to get to the nipple on the end, so i gave up. I took the thing to a mechanic, and he just loosened the bar ends off (30 second job), and now i've got a throttle that snaps back even easier than before! Have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the speedo cable - no joy (it died completely a few days ago, so my miles aren't clocking up, and neither does the speed). Might be looking at some new clocks soon... Also got the geezer to check the ignition barrel (AKA ignition switch, apparently), and he reckons it's totally stuffed - so i'm looking for a used one. To top it all off, i dropped the thing (well it sort of bounced out my hands) wheeling it out of my garage this morning, and put a hole in a side panel, after it landed on a well-placed random brick... Grrr...

The speedo cable connects to the front wheel so i think that's where it's being measured. When it's not pissing it down (the bike is outside at the moment), i'll check that it's connected properly. I'll check the entire length of the throttle cable for snags (duh, why didn't i think of that straight away...), and give it that there "mechanic's wiggle" It fell on the throttle side. I've already checked and it didn't seem to be fouling on the bar end, but i'll check more closely later. Cheers for that re. the ignition, i'll have a go when the weather's nice . Only had the speedo cable replaced less than 1K miles ago, but i'll check it first as i fully agree it's a cheaper fix. The way i know it's out is that i went down an NSL road i know well to test it, and from the speed i'm sure i went up to at least 70mph, probably 80. And yet the speedo would not go above 40. And i've yet to see it do so since it's little tumble. Also i can accelerate when it's reading 30, and it doesn't actually move at all until i go much much faster (it did before).

My trusty CB500 is starting to prove itself a little bit of a pain (moreso than i would expect of a Honda bike, even though it's probably all down to its age, and rider neglect!) Am just fishing for ideas on these points: 1) The ignition barrel is playing up - i.e. when the key moves even slightly to one side or the other, it decides to cut off the power as though i've removed the key (can be a significant annoyance when getting going, due to the engine repeatedly cutting out as a result of the engine vibrating the key around). The problem appears to be getting more frequent, and i was wondering what the best solution would be - probably replacing the barrel at a guess (have tried squirting with WD40) 2) The bike fell over a week ago when i left it unattended outside my house on the uneven surface (yes, i won't be making that mistake again). I believe this has knackered my speedo as after that i've found that from 20mph+, it gets increasingly less accurate as my speed goes up, but the speedo doesn't (i.e. i pretty confident i'm doing ~40mph, and it's reading 30mph and worse: i think i'm doing 70-80mph, and it's reading 40mph!). Any suggestions bar replacing the entire unit (as that would be costly)? 3) Again since it fell over, the throttle cable now 'sticks' where i leave it (doesn't snap back). My haynes manual recommends that the cable needs lubricating, but due to the fall over would this actually fix the problem. This is adding to a fair list of what i've had to and am having to fix. I'm thinking that by the time i'm finished most of the bike will actually be almost new

Cheers Anyone used one of those Shok-Spot things before, or am i going to be the forum guinea pig?

Having just bought a back protector today (Oxford MAX), i'm now contemplating further gear replacements, especially my jacket (i don't think it's appropriate to be wearing full gear with an already accident-ripped jacket arm thereby giving less than full protection). I'm currently using: HJC CL-ST (cost me #110). Aldi gloves (#13) with very nice carbon-style knuckles. Buffalo jacket (#100) with ripped left arm. Arlen Ness NP-6066-AN armoured 'pants' (#150). RST Vortex II boots (#80). Oxford MAX back protector (paid #62). I don't feel comfortable spending too much more money, uni being on the way (and me being on only part-time hours at the moment!) I've also decided to replace my helmet very soon due to multiple drops and bangs, and was wondering if i just have to get an Arai this time, because only they seem to offer a (free AFAIK) helmet checking service (if only i had it available my current helmet, i would be able to send it away for checking every so often rather than replacing it 'just in case'). The bike is my sole transport (including commuting use), which is why it gets banged a fair amount, despite me taking care. Regarding the jacket, i'm in abit of a pickle as i've tried on the matching jacket to my trousers and it just doesn't fit properly! Looks like i'll be having to buy a whole new jacket and trousers combination unless i'm missing something? (i fancy going for leathers now anyway, despite concerns about how appropriate they are for regular commuting). Furthermore, i'm a little concerned about the gloves, largely due to how cheap they were (the stiching on the wrist strap is admittedly poor quality and i've had to repair it, but aside from that they seem great). Should i be upgrading, or will they do the job 'well enough'?

Check your owner's manual. Then buy a Haynes manual for your bike when available, and use that almost religiously. Buy the appropriate tools and avoid using the bike's toolkit unless it's an emergency (NB: You'll probably need to have properly documented and professional servicing for the duration of the warranty to keep it valid so you probably won't need much until the end of the warranty period). Having previously used a 125 Honda (2002 CG125 in my case), i lubed the chain 'regularly' as you're supposed to (depends alot on your riding i.e. if you ride in the rain you'll need to lube more often, if you ride daily you'll need to lube more often, and whether you have a full chain enclosure or not - i did so didn't have to lube so often as it was kept safe from the elements). Lube aside, just keep it correctly adjusted, and avoid overtightening. Engine oil is something you'll certainly need to keep topped up (and change at the correct intervals). Otherwise, as it's a Honda you don't need to worry much. If you stick to regularly doing POWDER you won't go wrong: P - Petrol (enough in the tank?) O - Oil (topped up to the level?) W - Water (brake fluid, coolant resevoir, etc) D - Drive (how's that chain..?) E - Electrics (are your indicators, kill-switch and lights all working) R - Rubber (Are your tyres correctly inflated, and free of debris?)

I carry an Almax Series 3 in a cheap tank bag (8kg). I used to do the same on my CG125 too, and have found it to be fine.

I've previously heard of a product that you can attach to your helmet and can sense sudden whacks, quite simply to let you know when your helmet's taken a knock that could make it worth replacing. I give my helmet quite alot of light knocks as my bike is my sole transport and so i use it for everything - but does anyone know where i can buy one from as i forgot!

http://www.modernwomenshealth.com/Article_Images/Six-Foods/raw%20meat.jpg Nuff said, unfortunately That said, the best combination is almost certain to to be alot of noise (alarms and dogs), along with making it time-consuming to steal (very big and bad chain locked through the frame of the bike to an immovable object).