Ingah

To be honest i'd prefer that you've never experienced a jacket creeping up during a slide - i get the impression it's distinctly unpleasant! From what i've heard (fortunately i've avoided it thus far), they can ride up, and it will hurt if it does (road rash). However, my leather jacket is touring style (i seem to have a "touring style" body shape as my textile trousers are too), and doesn't have a zip so i don't have this luxury. It does fit reasonably tightly though so i'd hope mine didn't (best i could do on finite budget and the choice of shops). You need a good zip to race, but then those crashes are rather fast

I think i disagree with the idea that price = protection with regards to helmets. There may or may not be some form of correlation (never have seen any proper independent research papers into it) but i'm under the impression that if you buy purely on spending the most you will be peeing money away on something that's not necessarily the wisest or indeed, most protective, choice. I'm aware that alot of shops try to get you to spend more by saying things like "What price do value your head.......?", but these people are after all, sales people, trying to get you to spend more money in their shop. So i've always taken it with a little pinch of salt. Fit is first, indeed. But you also will find you pay more for fancy/racing paint jobs (can be quite alot more. If you manage to find a helmet with, for example a "Rossi" colour scheme, and a plain black colour scheme you'll see the exact amount extra you were paying for the Rossi paint job), lighter (less weight) helmets, better dealer support and after-care services (thinking about how Arai appear to look after their customers), fog-free features (breath masks, pinlock/pinlock-ready, anti-mist coatings etc), ventilation, removable/washable linings, ACU "racing" approval, "quieter" helmets, chin curtains and of course the R&D that goes into each and every one of these optional features (some of which, if you need/want are genuinely great and will doubtlessly improve safety, but if you don't need it, you're still paying for it in the price). As a non-expert, looking purely at protection - the only things i can think of that are safe to go on, is what you see (how well it looks put together), the brand reputation/reviews, and the SHARP test ratings as that's the only way i, as a consumer, have to differentiate all these helmets in a fair/more objective way. To answer the OP: I'm a student, (and money is very short) - but i do need a new lid and i know the HJC CL-ST fits me (current helmet - RRP £110) and so i'm tempted to go for it again. But i have been trying on every possible relevant helmet in the shops because i am looking for the single best fitting one. And provided there's no alarm bells going off (poor build quality or 1 star in the SHARP test), that'll be the one i buy - it looks like it's going to be an Arai or a Shark (haven't tried them yet) as none of the other brands fitted well. I'll spend probably £250 if i have to - after all i don't think "skimping" on head protection is wise. I really hope i don't though. With limited means, i spent over £100 (not much i guess, but it was/is to me) on my girlfriend's Shark helmet (a year ago, and we've still yet to use it ), because it fitted the best. I was really hoping to spend less, but i again was looking for the best fit and that helmet was it. That and i didn't want her to have the SHARP 1 star HJC CS-R1 Samurai helmet that also fitted well.

Opened the switch up and sprayed all the insides with lots of WD40. Fixed . Any ideas how to prevent this recurring, apart from regular WD40 treatment?

It comes up even in the online list for most companies and on Almax's website it says Thatcham approved.

I have to laugh, otherwise i'd probably cry Another CB500 problem (thankfully a minor-seeming one) - have left the bike sat for 2 weeks as it's been icy (under a cheap Lidl motorbike cover, and i was careful to cover it before the bike got wet as i didn't think it would let the moisture out). Went out today to do some basic checks etc in preparation for the bike going back into regular use. First problem i noticed was that the indicator switch was lightly "sticking" in place (instead of snapping back), immediately followed by the realisation that the indicators themselves weren't working either. Fixed the former problem with generous amounts of WD40, but the latter problem remains. The ignition light for indicators doesn't flash, and neither do any of the indicators, nor is there any perceptible clicking. Recently fitted a new (2nd hand) front left indicator, which was playing up. Have tried removing the connection from this (behind the headlamp), but no change. Also checked the fuse boxes, but all the fuses are unbroken. Had an alarm system fitted by a mechanic about 4 months ago, but unplugging it made no difference either. My next idea is to trace the entire length of the indicators (right from the switch, which i plan to take apart) to see what i can see wrong and/or spray with WD40, unless anyone has a good idea of what's wrong or where to start?

A security system is only as strong as it's weakest link. Watch these 2 videos to help decide how strong you want your chain to be: Unsurprisingly, i use the Almax chains (not afflicated with the company, am just a consumer) and would not have a chain with under 16mm links as they are vulnerable. Way i look at things if someone's going to try my chain i want NOISE! However, if you are not going to lock the chain through the frame of your CG, and then through an immovable object (i.e. something like a lamp post), every time you park, then you may as well go with a cheap, bolt-croppable chain because your bike is likely to simply be lifted into a van on the time you don't bother (statistically most bikes are stolen with vans). Or put on a couple of skateboards and carted off by the local pond scum kidz.

Ditto. I've recently been wondering that too myself. Not enough to ask but wondering nonetheless.

Been helmet shopping recently, and tried on the entire available stock of Hein Gericke and Bike Gear, in the sub £200 range. Before i go and really strech my student finances buying a £200+ Arai (The £200+ Shoei helmets don't fit well enough and i've been told everyone fits either a Shoei or an Arai) i was just hoping someone here might really know their helmets. Since starting riding, i've used the £110-£120 HJC CL-ST helmets in size XS (not because i have a particularly small head, more that the shell is big with this helmet). This is the only helmet i've ever found fits well enough (i.e. nice and tight but not so that it's going to cause headaches). Problem is that after about a year of regular (but not daily) use, the cheek pads in these loosen up so that the fit is no longer tight enough (i don't want to be replacing my helmet every year - and i have intentions to do more regular riding this coming year, so it might not even last a year). The probably bigger problem is that these CL-ST helmets have been discontinued Does anyone know of another helmet (possibly a replacement model), that's the same shape? (or near as dammit)

Went out today and bought myself 2 new jackets (was quite impressed with myself, had resigned myself to nothing fitting me!), but just wanted to know if anyone knows anything about / has owned either of them and can tell me whether they're any good/bad as google hasn't come up with anything much in the way of opinion (haven't taken the tags off either of them yet and don't want to find out the hard way if they're pants, or look like an idiot riding along with the tags on!): RST Ventilator jacket (textile - i'm looking for this to be all-year-round and waterproof for commuting uses). An example here: http://www.bigbikebook.com/14492/RST-VENTILATOR-W-P-JACKET.html Gear Tour 2015 jacket (leather - i bought this because i prefer the look and like the idea it will protect me better than textiles). An example here: http://www.bike-gear.com/product/4184/Gear_Tour_2015_Jacket

Was the other one routed correctly in the first place? (if you happen to have a dealership around the corner selling a GPZ it may be worth discretely checking how the cable is routed on their bike?)

Well that was odd. After all that faffing the other day i had it sorted within a couple of minutes when i went out earlier today (whacked the fine adjuster on the handlebars back to roughly where i remembered it being in the past, then slackened the lower clutch adjuster abit more and then hey presto, clutch working like i remember). Thanks for the help all! Unfortunately though, i'm getting relatively near the end of the lower clutch adjusters so don't be all too surprised if i'm back with a related problem in the near future! (when i inevitably have a crack at replacing the clutch plates)

Just to clarify - i applied the rear brake each time i was checking the wheel and whenever i let the brake go the wheel started to spin. This did not happen with neutral. To stop the wheel spinning at any point all i had to do was put it in neutral and it stopped within a few seconds.

I've somehow managed to make my bike's clutch go wrong (for want of a better term). Earlier today i replaced the clutch (perch) bracket and clutch lever after last month's little drop, and all was well until i tried to sort out the free play again. I spent about two hours trying different adjustments, going from one extreme into the other, even using the Haynes manual to check i wasn't doing it wrong. But it seems that no matter what, the clutch doesn't seem to engage properly (i.e. put on centre stand, then in 1st gear, hold the clutch lever in, and the rear wheel happily spins away!) even when adjusted to the extent that i can't feel any resistance or 'bite' on the lever at all (and the opposite way where the 'biting point' disappears entirely as any lever movement results in movement where the cable connects into the engine). The lever is definitely connected properly, and the cable is moving right the way to the bottom where the adjusters are, and i can't see why it isn't working. But it was fine before i made this 'repair'. Anyone know what i've done wrong?

Just ordered this "Front Wheel Bearings Kit" off eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390119394454) as my mechanic said he felt a little bit of freeplay in the bearings when he had it in the garage. Just had a look in my Haynes, and it says to prise out the grease seals and discard them as i "should" be fitting new ones. Are these likely to come in the "kit", or are they something else entirely and i'll have to nip into Honda to purchase? It then says to use a "metal rod, preferrably a brass drift punch" to get the bearings out. I don't have anything suitable, so where should i be looking to buy this?

Anyone know any places i can try on these Wiese Oslo gloves and the AltBerg boots as the fit is the biggest concern? (I'm based in South Wales). Have definate intentions to go down Hein Gericke (next week, always next week ), but i can't see either of these items being available there, and they both sound like the very best.

For those of you that haven't read: "Foolish Pedestrians, Busy Crossroads and Manhole Covers" thread in Bike Chat, i've recently done more (mostly cosmetic) damage to my bike, and have decided that i'm going to try to stop spending on replacing cosmetic parts (which is a shame as it was a tidy looking bike, but due to it's age - 1995 - and mileage - 49K, and commoness - CB500 - it's not really wise to pay out a sizeable fraction of the bike's value on new or even second hand plastics - even though i have spent a hell of a lot of money repairing and giving everything a good service - the bike should be solid for years to come now... i hope). Call me vain though, but i do like my bike to look nice - so non-bikers (most bikers seem to unconsciously turn their noses up a little when they work out what it actually is) will be like "that's a nice bike", rather than assuming that i must be some kind of tramp biker. Anyway, i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on how to go about making it all look tidy enough, without buying expensive parts or getting expensive professionals to help. My mudguard is now quite cracked, my engine bars have been across the ground and eaten into a few times and are rusting in these places, and my headlamp metal rim is suffering in the same way, the rear seat cowl plastics now have a sizeable vertical crack across them, the rear of the speedo plastics are scuffed and cracked, the edge of the tank has orange "brick" on it from where i've dropped it onto a brick (not washing off), and the triangular plastic tabs (can't remember their name today...) that go behind the tank and in front of the rear seat cowling, have a hole and cracking in them (from aforesaid brick accident).

Almax provided me with the 10L Kreiga tailpack for free when i bought my 1.5m Series 3 a while back - so that'll probably be a good guide for the size you need

Was just looking for general recommendations and even pieces of gear to avoid that (hopefully) meet my criteria: I'm going to be upgrading my gear to keep my hide safe over winter both for delivering pizzas part time, and the usual general (motorway) riding to and from work/my girlfriend's house. Going down Hein Gericke to take a look tomorrow, but i'm not optimistic of finding what i want there as i'm a student and my cash is short (especially in light of my latest tumble-down-the-road). So the gear; It must make a solid attempt to keep me warm for 4-6 hour pizza delivery stints. And all be 100% waterproof (or as near as). Preferrably as quick to get on and off as possible, because it always takes far too long to get riding for my liking (can't imagine a pizza delivery place will enjoy me taking an age to get suited and booted every time either). A jacket with the facility for an integrated back protector would be really useful along these lines, because it will save me having to put on my separate back protector like i do at the moment. Strong ankle protection in the boots is a must. Gloves preferrably have carbon fibre knuckles (e.g. http://www.carbonfibergear.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/alpinestars-3-4-gloves.jpg) - just in case i get set on by a group of chavs as it's obviously illegal to use anything to protect myself - and besides which i believe this to provide better protection to my knuckles in the event of a motorway spill. I know i'm probably looking for the magic bullet here (gear that is nearly perfect for me, with a budget in mind), but even if people can only say things like "i had the [X brand, Y name] boots, and they leaked within weeks" or "i had [X] gloves and they protected my knuckles from a 70mph spill" - that sort of information is going to be really helpful in me finding some gear that i'm happy with for my riding, and make delivering pizzas all the more enjoyable (when i apply to somewhere of course, i'm getting decent gear first, especially in light of today's spill!) Edit: Just thinking it might be useful for anyone else... I'm not happy with the level of ankle protection in the RST Vortex 2 boots (~£80). My first pair fell apart at the velcro in about 6 months (and the zip kinked up from day 1) and my second/current pair (replaced on warranty) failed to prevent me spraining my ankle in a low-speed lowside today. However, i'm happy that they did offer some protection. I found they don't fit tightly enough, and that to do them up in a way that your ankle doesn't have too much movement takes several attempts, and alot of hard yanking at the velcro. On the plus side though, they do seem to keep my feet largely dry. Aldi gloves, "Crane Road" (~£13, with the carbon fibre knuckles) i found these to be good for the money, dry and fairly warm, with a reasonable amount of protection, especially for the money. Only downside is that the stiching on the wrist seems to come unravelled quite quickly - so you need to be prepared to sew the velcro down if you want decent life out of the gloves (i did and i'm still quite happy with them, but would upgrade if i saw a good quality pair at a good price).

I have already had the carbs balanced (on them being inspected they were clearly so close to sync'ed that the mechanic said there's no point making even the slightest alteration as he would probably overshoot it and then they'll be more out Inline [fuel] filter? I'll probably get one of those as it sounds really useful. I think i will use the redex (as the manufacter's instructions say on the side - don't want to go wrecking anything) as i'm thinking for an old engine, with an old design like the CB500, it may help. And if it does help my MPG it'll more than pay for itself in no time. Only other thing i can think of with my bike is that i have no idea if the valve clearances have been done (ever). It's on my to-do list somewhere near the bottom (as it involves paying for someone else's labour). I don't suppose this could affect MPG?

I'm considering buying some redex in an attempt to improve currently poor fuel consumption (i've tried all the obvious things like air filter and spark plugs etc). Am i completely wasting my money or could it do *some* good? I'm using a 1995 CB500 that's done about 48K miles (well used) and i have my doubts about how well it's been looked after by previous owners (i've done alot of repairs in a short time...). It's got a carburettor so i was thinking of using that type of redex.

Just looking at a cheap one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-ATV-CAR-QUAD-VAN-MOTORCYCLE-BATTERY-TRICKLE-CHARGER_W0QQitemZ310174326832QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&rvr_id=&cguid=01de9b921240a0aad4d18041fce55c60 Is that up to the job of the odd battery top up? (a few hours charging it just to keep it from running completely flat). Granted, it doesn't have any advanced features but it's really cheap and claims to be suitable for motorbikes. It can't blow up my battery, right? Edit: In the end i went and bought the Oxford Oximiser as it turns out that it actually does do all the things i listed, and as it's under half the price of the Optimate i thought i could strech my wallet to it http://www.countybatteryservices.co.uk/12v-oximiser-motorcycle-battery-charger-up-to-30ah-gelmflead-f010101-p-2941.html - Once postage is added it cost £23.

Thank you for those responses, given me plenty to think about. WF: 1) Most of the time (at uni) the bike is stored in a city, out in the open, chained with an Almax 3 to a nearby lamppost. The reason i like the motion sensor is that if someone has thoughts about angle-grinding the chain off (if they really want an crusty old CB5 that is...) they will decide against it when they realise they can't even do that, without setting the motion sensor alarm off. The advantage to this is that my fob will also tell me that the sensor is going off, and that even if people are happy to ignore a few big blokes angle-grinding a bike chain, they (and me, via key fob), WILL know that the guy(s) is(are) trying to steal it (as the alarm will be going off too...) The additional protection here is against vandalism and other students that could attempt to steal a trophy from the bike (neither of which the chain alone would deter). The downside to the motion sensor (which can be disabled without taking off the alarm) is both the extra current drain and the fact that i can't cover the bike too else the wind-caused movement will set the alarm off. I tend to opt for one or the other, so i've decided to switch the motion sensor off and cover the bike instead for a few days. 2) At the girlfriends (where i spend far too much time for my own good rather than studying ) the bike is stored outside again, in a similar sort of way (except her house is a run-down village rather than a busy city). You've made me think again pete, i see your point. A problem i've got with chargers though is no garage in which to plug the bike in for a maintainance/trickle charge/top up - the only way i can fathom would be to pull the fuse out the alarm system (which as a plus the alarm manufacturer does say is safe), take the battery out the bike, and then put it on charge indoors. It's not something i would want to faff with often. Thinking about it though, i'll go and buy a charger with: Dead battery recovery. Over-charging prevention (i'm forgetful). Safety (don't want my heavy-handedness to blow fuses etc). Other features that mean with only occassional use will make my battery last longer. Have read the Oxford Oximiser doesn't prevent over-charging Unfortunately price is very much an issue (left my part-time job recently as the place i started working at was making me feel really down), otherwise i'd just buy an Optimate 4 (50 damn quid though!!!?), does anyone have any further ideas on which charger might suit me (never had one)?

On this occasion i'm probably not going to use the bike for a week. Oh wait... 35 x 24 x 7 = 5800mA... I think i've just answered my own question - I'm pretty certain that i haven't just put 5.8Ah back in that battery Assuming it was even a quick charge it will have 3Ah in it (4A x 0.75hours) Maybe it's time to bite the bullet and turn the motion sensor off (20mA). Or invent a reason to go riding

On closer inspection the instructions said that i could let the engine warm up and then run the bike at a fast idle for 10 minutes instead, so i did that. I just did it all in one big session. Also, i decided the coolant flushing stuff should be combined with water (Haynes agreed), so i did that. It all got drained out afterwards so no point wasting good coolant! The fan will come at a later date. The CB500's are supposed to run "unusually cool" which now seems to be the case with the shiny new coolant The old coolant looked a little bit funny anyway, so i'm glad to have got rid. From previous investigations i found the fan itself works OK, it just doesn't always automatically come on when it should (not that this should be often anymore). I'll add the fan to my everlong list of things to do though.

I did a 45 minute journey on my CB500 (most of it on the motorway) to where i am staying now. Does anyone know if that have been a "quick" charge or a "normal" charge? In my Haynes and workshop manual i'm presented with: A charging rate of: Normal: 0.9A for 5-10 hours. Quick: 4.0A for 1 hour. Battery is 12V, 8Ah I managed to completely drain my (just weeks old) battery out over the weekend, by starting and stopping the bike for a coolant change/flush, changing the oil and a few other odd jobs, and using the headlights like a lamp . As it was at the top of a steep hill, it was easy to bump start it away. But i'm not there now, i'm miles away, on flat land... I'm trying to work out approximately how much charge the journey will have put back in the battery so it doesn't flatten again as i have never been able to successfully bump start it on flat land. The big reason for my concern is that the bike has a fancy alarm that i think drains ~35mA when active (which it has to be). That and i'm not in possession of a battery charger and am trying to avoid buying one until i really have to.