rosszx9r

just a thought but have you checked the battery charge? if it's low or the alternator isn't working you could be getting a really weak spark. battery volts should be 13 - 14v with the engine running

what did you do with the valve stem oil seal when you're working on a 2 stroke? testing when hot should give better results. i assume by pressure you mean PSI?

seems like you will really have to do a plug chop to find out which cyliders are causing the issue. if you can bear the noise, warm the engine fully, rev it to 7k while stationary and hold it there while it misfires for 20 - 30 seconds. then hit the kill switch and take the plugs out. check colour. this is normaly done with the engine under load but since you have the issue with no load, it should work ok. you should hopefully find two of the cyliders have black deposits on the plugs which should tie in with the coil associated with them so you can narrow down the list of things to replace. if they are all the same then you should look for a new cdi box or ignition pickup.

thats not nessesarily low. check the figure with your manual. do you know what it's supposed to be? one further test you can do is to squirt oil into the cylinder your testing. re do the compresion test. if that increases the reading significantly, then your cylinder bores are worn (you'll need a rebore with new pitons and rings)

the only restriction kit i can find is for a ZZR400 which uses steel washers on the intake manifold but that still wouldn't limit the revs until trying to go flat out in 6th. i really think its a fault causing the revs to top out at 7k BTW - the carb top restriction only stops the throttle sliders moving past ~90% fully open. my bike is restricted (to 125bhp ) still revs perfectly ok to the red line though

can't find any mention of other restrictions but have found reference to an identicle fault on a ZX9r which may help. both the zx9r and zzr1100 have a roughly similar ram air system. if the ram air system leaks then revs under load can be resticted as you describe. http://www.cornwallkawasaki.co.uk/shop/shop.php?cmd=showdiagram&id=3818 here is an exploded view of the air intake system. one area to look really closely at is the ram air link to the carb float bowls. it is needed to ensure the correct pressure within the carbs. the ignition system is still worth a check too. i should of asked, is the bike generally intact or do you have the fairing off and are you running in standard spec or is it being street fightered or modified?

THIS might help you identify all the ignition components.

a number of kwaks are restricted in the carbs. the carb lids have ridges (~5mm high) that stop the carb slider lifting fully. this only affected early zzr1100 as it was during a time of voluntry restrictions to 125bhp. that restriction was forgotton about a long time ago now that still shouldn't limit revs under load though. couple of areas that could be at fault are the coils or HT system in general. a weak spark will rob engine power and only show up under load. could be a faulty plug, ht cable or more likely a coil. the CDI unit could also be faulty but that is much less likely. i've checked my haynes for my zx9r (same engine design, same ignition system) and they suggest the above ignition components too but also mention a few other areas where low power under load could occur. these are: air leak on carb intakes incorectly set or type of spark plug sticking throttle body incorrect engine oil (too thick causing engine drag) going back to your origonal post, you suggested it was running on 3 cylinders. quite possibly! i think you have ruled out the fuel delivery system, suggest you focus on the ignition system now. take the plugs out and see if one is a different colour to the rest (do this after a run when you experiance the problem) you should also inspect the ignition pickup incase it's damaged or contaminated with oil (sits on the end on the crankshaft in a sealed chamber). check the condition of all HT components. looking more closely at the one where the plug is discoloured. the only other suggestion i have at this point is the carb diaphrams. if one is damaged or not sealing correctly then it can stop the throttle slider from opening. since you'll have to remove tank, fairing airbox to get at the plugs, the carbs diaphrams can be easily tested. using your finger (while the egine is off ) slide the carb slider up then let it drop back down. you should get some resistance when pushing it up and it should also make a swishing sound as you move it (air going in and out of the carb top) and obviously, the slider shouldn't stick anywhere. hope that helps

the man is a legend for 2 stroke tuning what 'doesn't' know about 2 strokes could be ritten on a gnats forehead

my ZX9r with polished wheels, wavey discs and beowulf pipe...

wow you could get a new R1 for that

i think they all do... see here but i think you got all the help you needed from here did you not? charlatan

thats normal so no need for concern there it is usually worth replacing the small end bearing given the other work you are doing. also inspect the gudgeon pin. it should be slightly shiny where the small end bearing sits but you shouldn't be able to feel any step or change in the profile of the pin when you run your finger over it.

i just got a new battery the other week from M&P. no idea what make is was, it is unbranded and works fine have you tried charging the old one with an optimate charger? they can recover some pretty knackered batteries. i kept my old one ticking along for a while using one. it has a special damage recovery charge.

it's always worth having some liquid gasket to hand when your doing this sort of thing. but you need to make sure it is the right type for the application. i think its the orange loctite stuff that is appropriate for most things on a bike (high temp, oil and water resistant but check the packet before you buy). definately don't use it on the head gasket though as you could put too much on and cause minor distortion of the head. i think there is other gasket stuff for holding them in place while you assemble the engine but personally, i use a dab or two of normal greese to hold things in place during assembly. the only place i needed liquid gasket was on the rocker cover of my zx9r. it was recomended in the haynes manual (but that is unusual!). most o-ring seals will benifit from a drop of oil or greese particularly the valve stem seals (very light coating of oil). best of luck...

i recently used these on a recent 500mile trip. it poured with rain on the way back but nothing got wet inside you can buy any combinationof tank, tail bag or panniers. i used the paniers and tank bag. the paniers expand to give loads of holding space. i don't get on with the tail pack as i can't get my leg up high enough to get on the bike

it sounds like a blocked air filter to me. does it rev beyond 7k when stationary?

it sounds like a blocked air filter to me. does it rev beyond 7k when stationary?

i tried using my tom tom Go in the tankbag map pocket.... didn't work for me... the screen isn't bright enough and there is too much detail on the screen. luckily, i have a blackberry with vodaphone sat nav... it is brilliant... it's a simple display that is bright and also picks up traffic reports if i used a proper bracket for the tom tom Go nearer to the clocks it might be better but i was a bit disapointed with it.

well... made it here in one piece (and dry) in the end i popped into mps express and got a frank thomas wet race jacket (transparent plastic coat) for £39... did the job nicely (bit sweaty after a couple of hours though it was fine in the odd shower but i wouldn't thinks it's much use in a real down pour. just glad to be sat on a soft cusion now with a nice cold beer

thanks it's quite bright here too at the mo, heading off soon. it's bound to pee down within 5 minutes of me getting on the road though... i seem to attract the rain when using my bike this year

sounds like the float valve is stuck open a little. it can happen sometimes (to any bike with carbs) switch the fuel tap off while your parked up and it won't happen as for it not running, you may of flooded the engine. wait an hour and try again. if not, then tell us more about what its doing (or not doing )

i'm visiting a company tomorrow in the town centre but i'm leaving here areound 3pm today. not looking foward to the motorway blast but i should find a few decent roads on the way back down tomorrow afternoon

hi, i have a bit of a problem my car is stuck in the garage and i need to travel 250 miles up to kendal and then 250 miles back again tomorrow! the bike is fit for it but the weather forecast is really grim any recomendations for a lightwieght waterproof over suit? i've seen a see through set of race water proofs which was the sort of thing i was looking for but they are pricy at £115