rosszx9r

ok, thanks guys. on a seporate note, seeing you've got the same vintage zx... Ade, what tyres have you got on your bike? i've currently got a mix of bridgestone BT018 front and BT020 rear. i've felt the front move a little round corners at high speed but not sure if thats nornla 'feedback' or just 'cos the treads low and time for new tires

Hi, i need a new set of discs and pads for my zx9r and like the look of the fancy waivy EBC discs. they are a good price (~£100 per disc) but are they any good? i know EBC are popular but is it cos they are cheap? also, what pads are recomended for normal road use? i see the are a number of different grades, HH being quite common. thanks, Ross

has your mate got a video camera..... this could end up on utube and be no1 in no time

i hope your mate has a valid insuranc policy before his garage gets burned down

i really admire the patience of all you guys trying to help.... wardy, if you don't know how to get the plug out after all that has been said then give it as a bad job. sorry mate, but if you're trying to fix a siezed engine, you've got to be able to get that yourself if you're really stuborn and determined to get it fixed, try and get a manual for it or take it down to a local bike shop and get them to look at at. a proper once over may cost you £50.

the speedo drive is always on the front wheel unless your talking about some odd ball bike which your not look for the bike black cable coming from the front hub (about 8mm in diameter) if it is a digital pickup then it will be a small wire but again coming from the front hub. usually, all speedo's read faster than you are actually going. how did you check it? the only real way is to have a mate follow you in a carr and both note the speed at a certain point or to use a GPS. GPS is best as the car speedo will also be out. the sprocket has nothing to do with the speedo so don't worry about that. the sprocket only regulates the speed of the back wheel not the speed of the bike (although the two are directly linked along with a dozon other parameters) it all is working ok and the speedo is still reading slow, the diameter of the front wheel may of changed. is it the origonal wheel? check the size. does it have a lower or larger than normal profile? tyre wear won't make a significant change but if a 16" is swaped for a 17" then it certainly could. failing all that, send the speedo off for a refurb. there are plenty of companies doing it if you look through MCN you can inspect the magnet pickup device by dropping the front wheel out. it's really easy. the speedo drive should just drop out once the wheels off.

you could try closing the throttle a little sounds like you're reving the nuts off it! what speed are you doing when it happens?

well, 1 tank of super unleaded, half a bottle of redex, a full bore blast down the nearby motorway for a few miles and, well..... it's a little bit better. it's livable but it will still iritate me. i think all this proves is i need a full carb strip down and overhaul. just need to find the time to do it thanks for giving it some thought though...

give it to a dealer..... what and give up!..... never..... we shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the landing grounds, we shall fight in the fields and in the streets, we shall fight in the hills; we shall never surrender..... to dealer at any rate

no, it's all bog standard. the bloke i bought it off had an aftermarket (don't know what kind) but put the origonal back on for the MOT and sale. i did think he may of had it rejetted. didn't think to ask at the time!

it's done 42k but i've had the rocker cover off and cams look in good nick, only normal rub marks you'd expect to see. i'll give the petrol addative a try tomorrow and see how it goes. failing that, it looks like a full carb strip down will be needed.... oh joy when i balanced the carbs, they were well out to begin with and i got them as close as i could. they weren't perfect but had about 5mm difference between each cylender (carbtune vacum gauges) acording to the the carbtune manual this is fine.

excellent, thanks. i'll give it a go...

you shouldn't be able to move the fork that easily even on a small bike! sound like you might have a broken spring or some retaining part. send them off for repair. there is a web site called pitted forks. can't send the URL as the spam filter keeps telling me off!!! if you've lost the fok oil you'll also need to have the fork stantion checked. is it pitted or rusty? as for stands, i use a rear padock stand and a steering head front stand. this allows you to take the forks out. front padock stands need the forks to lift the front end. you could also use a rear padock stand and a couple of carefully placed axle stands under the engine.

this isn't too hard to repair and on a 125, shouldn't take long. you've done the hard work by getting the engine out the frame! the conrod should move side to side but shouldn't move up and down at all. when checking it, make sure the conrod is in the middle of the crank with equal movement either side, then try to move it up/down. if you feel any up/down movement, you'll have to strip the engine. it's probably a shell type bearing that comes in two halfs. it needs oil to make it work! buy a haynes manual and it's really easy. a gasket set is probably going to set you back £100 for everything. piston ~£30. rebore ~£80. bearings ~£50 remember that if you rebore the engine, you'll need an oversized piston. this will give a little extra power (as will decoking the engine) it looks like the engine has overheated and had a lube failure. once rebuilt, you need to strip and clean the carb making sure it's all set up correctly, then check the oil pump meticulaousy. good luck!

M&P or MPS express do kits for all sorts of bikes. you can get rechroming kits and nickel plating kits but it's a bit of a faf for a handful of bolts. new ones aren't dear. quick fix - soak in WD40 for and hour them just rub with a rag.

gunk! been around years and cheap as chips from halfords. you can get a spray can of it too for those hard to reach places. just spray it on, rub with and old paint brush and then wash it off with water.

thanks for that. i already changed the air filter and the plugs before i balanced the carbs. i drained the carbs and washed them through with carb cleaning spray but didn't strip them down as them seemed in pretty good nick and the bike idles smoothly and pulls cleanly (now the cards are balanced ) chain tension is fine too. this one's got me really stumped!

i've got an odd problem with my zx9r (b1) engine. on a balanced throttle, the engine loads and unloads continuously. i can hear it as i ride along. there is a distinct noise when the engine is just under load and another when it is just off load. i can hear it loading unloading when holding the throttle steady and riding along a flat road. i can also feel the bike surging slightly as the noise changes. this happens mainly at low revs and gets better if i drop a gear or two. i balanced the carbs which did improve things and i've also fitted new secondary air injection valves incase this was affecting low speed running. the bike runs fine apart from this and doesn't burn any oil. any suggestion?

got a zx9r b1. i've had trouble with the breaks a while back. it was the discs that were out of true. suggest you check them again to be sure. the seal theory seems a bit odd. you'd have to have brerak fluid squirting out all over the place for it to make the pads rattle! you never know how the new discs were treated before you got them and also, make sure they are seated properly on the wheel.

i use a crbtune too. dead easy to use and seems pretty acurate. got mine for £55 new.