Echoeone

Hi any guidance appreciated on how to change the oil seal on the ZZR1100C balancer shaft as mine is leaking. thx

Hi all - does anybody have any tips on how to remove the filler cap on a ZZR1100D petrol tank without a key. I could no doubt try a flat head screw driver to force it but want to try and save it if poss and also worried that if I did try and force it and it didn't work then would have a bigger prob. Any ideas/thoughts appreciated Thx

Hi - i have replaced the water pump on my ZZR1100D, because the old one was leaking and also the oil and water was mixing. As I had altready changed the head and head gasket, this looked a likely cause. Having put it all back together, the bike starts but on checking in the rad filler top - there is no movement of water as there normally is. Couple of other things, the red low oil pressure light does not come on before I start the bike up now [ used to so presuming sender ok ] and also if I put the bike in gear [ when the engine is not running ] and pull the clutch in the back wheel is still engaged. As the new water pump is all fitted and engaged to the oil pump, I pressume there may be an oil pump prob - ie if that is not turning then the water pump cany? How would I check if the oil pump is working? Any other thoughts welcome as the old haynes offers nothing in this area thx

Hi & thanks for the response Megawatt. I did as u suggested by disconnecting from the rad and then filled the water pump with coolant. Nothing came out of the sump so I am going to assume the head gasket has blown. Would be interested to hear from anyone with any other likely causes. By head gasket I am given to understand that this means the gasket between the head and the top of the barrels - rather than the gasket between the bottom of the barrels and the sump. Can the latter blow and cause this? Plan to take the head off and look for signs of damage etc

I have a 1996 ZZR1100 D that when you poor coolant into the radiator - the coolant slowly drips out of the sump plug that I have removed. I have been told that the Water pump could be the cause? Is this poss and how would I know? I ask as dont want to disturb the head on the assumption that the head gasket has blown - when it could be the water pump? Thx & any help appreciated

Fredc thanks - once I have the head off, how do i get the worn part out?

i have the cams off and the shim holder wont come out. Do i need a special tool to remove it? It seems pinned in some way. Attached is a pic that shows inside the head [ cams still on when i took it ] but u can see the follower ontop on the shim and its holder. thx

The shim clearances are correct as I checked them all. It is the shim holder that is worn and wont keep the shim in place. The ones that aren't worn are fine and the shim clicks in and is firmly held. The problem shim holders though are slack in their grasp of the shim and so the shim comes out. I dont have any pics as still have the head on, but looks like it will be coming off again. Guess the question is how to I remove the Shim holders?

Hi - my ZZR1100C has kicked two of its shims. On imspection, the sides that hold them in have become worn and so a sim of the correct size comes out even when the follower has been slide back across. They sit on top of the value spring. How do I take the sim holders off so i can replace them. Incidently is it poss to bend the retaining sides of the sim holder to make them grip again whilst still on the bike - or is that a no no. Thx & any help appreciated.

Hi have tried a different cdi and still wont rev properly out of gear. When u ride it on the road it feels as if it is restricted gets up to 7k ok and then feels like it has been choked off. The engine revs change and the thrust that u get with these flattens out. If u hold the throttle open it continues to rev up to about 9k but the accelleration stopped at 7k Any help from your contacts welcome. It has unregulated carb tops

Thanks for the help and will look at the areas. One last observation is that it is not possible to rev it over 7k rpm when stationary. Not that I make a habbit of it - but tried it folowing a previous suggestion to see if it would. When i did it the engine fell away at 7k rather like it would if u put the choke on when it was warmed up with the same kind of noise change. When the engine is idling or at lower revs it sounds perfect.

I have a ZZR1100C [ 1992 ] that I am trying to get back on the road. The bike is a foreign import. Has anyone come across them being restricted in any other way than by carb tops to stop the slides coming fully out. If it is a Jap market inport does anyone know how they are restricted for that market. eg via CDI unit or other means with it being a non uk bike? This bike has flat carb tops but wont rev in gear over 7k rpm. When u change gear you are fine again but only up to 7k rpm and so on. I have had the carbs off cleaned them + fluel lines filters and removed the air filter and made no effect. Any help appreciated

Pulling my hair out with this one. Still acts as if its restricted at 7k rpm. It has flat carb tops though - so if it is restricted thats not how they have on this one. The bike is a foreign import. Has anyone come across them being restricted in any other way eg via CDI unit or other means with it being a non uk bike? All other things we have talked about re fuel etc have checked and these are all ok following a different pump and new lines etc so a real mystery. thx

Hi anyone know if the pistons/shafts/rings from a D model ZZR1100 will fit a C model Many thanks

Hi thx for all the replies. Have taken the fuel lines and fuel pump out and checked - plus the various tank breathers/filters etc. The prob looks to be the pump as not much comes out the other side when tested. It also looks as if it has been pumping rust in the past from a dodgy tank. Will fit a different pump and then test it on the road again. Have the air filter off and that makes no difference so will continue with fuel supply as the main suspect thx