Maxorama

You could have a go at it yourself and save a fair whack, to do the actual oil seal its a case of removing the forks from the triple clamps, which is fairly easy. Just make sure the bike is properly supported. There are loads of videos on you tube, you don't need any special tools apart from circlip pliers... you just have to take care not to scratch the chrome on the forks...

the parts are cheap and you will save yourself a packet..

Is possible to replace forks without splitting but its fiddly .

Good place for info is zzr-international.co.uk

Its one of my go to places to pick brains / gleam info for my zeds

nice one thanks mate. I've been sifting a fair bit through there already. I think my zzr has had pretty much everything wrong with it possible so far. Pretty good for learning! annoying for just riding the thing though

very true - it might be a good means of quickly assessing the damage and going from there though.

I've had a faulty water pump let coolant into the crank case, so it might be worth checking your engine oil - if its brown and smells sweet, with emulsified oil on the sight glass, that would be a sign of coolant in your oil. small leaks/cracks can close up by the time the engine is warm.

is the bike over heating at all?

to be fair its probs just a pocket of air as was suggested already

Had exactly the same symptoms on a GSXR 1100 once. I hate to say this but its probably a worn selector fork deep in the gearbox.2nd gear gets a lot of abuse especially if previous owners like doing wheelies. A selector fork isn't expensive but its a big job to replace. You may be able to split the cases without removing the crank and top end by supporting the engine upside down in an improvised cradle. Good luck.

Heya fastbob, thanks for the reply. Apparently these zzr's have a notorious second gear issue, which is all i can find on the net, and that sometimes the selector fork goes wrong. I may be wrong, but i think i saw a thread somewhere where someone was able to swap the forks for a good set via the inspection cover, rather than splitting the case. I hope this is the case !!

thanks again

hmm...were they a gynaecologist ?

No idea mate, pretty sure this isn't the place to ask if you've got problems with your vagina though

It might also be the case that i try and get hold of another engine for the bike...

Had exactly the same symptoms on a GSXR 1100 once. I hate to say this but its probably a worn selector fork deep in the gearbox.2nd gear gets a lot of abuse especially if previous owners like doing wheelies. A selector fork isn't expensive but its a big job to replace. You may be able to split the cases without removing the crank and top end by supporting the engine upside down in an improvised cradle. Good luck.

Heya fastbob, thanks for the reply. Apparently these zzr's have a notorious second gear issue, which is all i can find on the net, and that sometimes the selector fork goes wrong. I may be wrong, but i think i saw a thread somewhere where someone was able to swap the forks for a good set via the inspection cover, rather than splitting the case. I hope this is the case !!

thanks again

Yep I'll seccond that ! Your bike will feel a lot nicer to ride with a new set in as well

Hi Joe, thanks for your concern. The bike has an MOT, but hasn't been ridden properly because of carb issues.

Yeah I'm gonna stick with it I think, I've invested a fair bit of time and money in the bike. Took it for a spin again this morning and found some bigger roads, seems as though it's defiantly related to 2nd gear

Heya mate. Actually one of the advisories was that the chain was too loose. So it's been jerking with a loose and now a tighter chain. I don't think it's chain slap, cause it does that already

Heya all. Got the bike back together together recently after faffing around with it for the MOT. I actually noticed this on the way back from the (failed) MOT test, that it began jerking at low/med revs. and after taking it out tonight finding that it seems to just be in 2nd gear, at low to med revs, it jerks as though the clutch is being dipped. pretty aggressive feeling... fine at the upper end of the revs.

I'm not certain that it was just 2nd gear, due to only riding it on single track lanes this evening and not being able to properly wind it up in 3rd. But it didn't do it at all in 1st.

Initially, I thought it was an electrical problem... but now i feel like there might be something up with the gear box. Like i say though, its only ever jerked, not jumped out of gear..

any ideas???

thanks !

DEcosse over on triumph rat forum got most of the info from over at TLzone and shared it on the rat forum when he went over to triumphs

The TL's was notorious for having a shite charging system often running at around 13v when revved and around 12.4 when idling

One problem associated with having a custom loom for the charging system is that fact that all power for the running of the bike goes through the wiring on the starter relay as you have no feed going back in to the loom from the reg/rec you have to remove some of the load from the wiring on the relay. On the TL most people have a separate loom for the charging system the headlights and the coils this makes a huge improvement to the running of the bike and reduces the load on the stock wiring loom

Reg/recs can go either way from sticking too much charge in to not enough and also stop working when they heat up! one of the common headaches is everything looks as though it is charging but once ridding for a few mins the reg/rec heats up and stops working! this is where external voltmeters play a good part

Another reason for bad charging is also worn or bad connections which get worse as they heat up and start to melt!

Here is a couple of threads to read for those who are interested there is some good info there

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequent-tl-mods/85339-charging-system-mod.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

Thats a good point! the power 'out' from the regulator i actually just took a wire straight from that to the +ve on the battery to cut the loom out of the equasion

I would also check the quality of your earth cable as well, i think a fair few people add another or beef up the existing one.

I had the same issue with mine.

Essentially, the fix involves upgrading the rr. The one on there is a shunt type, and you can buy, or source from a Yamaha r1 I believe, a much better mosfet unit. You can also get a wiring harness to make this very much plug and play.

The second part of the fix is to directly wire the output from the rear to the battery, which eliminates all of the potential inefficiencies in the wiring harness.

It's all on the Triumph rat site. There is a wizard on there who figured everything out.

The ticking in the bike, as said is the starter relay. When battery is low and you try and start, it will struggle to turn the starter. Ideally, you want to be putting more like 14 to the battery. Some guys also stuck a volt meter on as part of the upgrade to keep an eye on things.

The only thing i think is strange is that the OP's bike is under charging. In my experience, when a regulator fails the whole system ends up running on (In upwards of) 16v or so. Unless they are able to fail in a semi closed position?

either way, here's a link with info about the MOSFET style regulator mod - it is basically plug and play http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/60-how-articles/6540-how-shindengen-mosfet-regulator-rectifier.html

Any regulator with a part number that starts in FH is a mosfet type - SH indicated shunt type - there are also units coming from china which have a part number which is different all together, cheap, but the one i bought lasted about 2 months. Various types of newer bikes run mosfet regulators so if you get on ebay and look for part numbers you'll be able to get a good deal - mine was about £45 i think.

Older r6 regulators are a SH type but rated to 50 Amps rather than 35 - so they still get hot and will eventually fail but take a while longer to fail..

I think its a pretty important mod if you need your bike to be reliable for commuting or whatever. I did it to my old ZZR with a little volt meter and a reset able fuse running out of the regulator into the battery. So in theory, if the regulator fries, i should see (if i notice) a spike in the displayed voltage, followed to it dropping down to 12.5 or whatever the charge is on the battery - meaning that the main fuse on the wiring harness doesn't blow and the bike doesn't cut out. (this happened to me and it sucked). means you can get home and sort it out..

anyway it might not even be that haha

Thanks for that

ill try a bit more of a vaccum test and go from there just to make sure no air is getting in anywhere

Should be charging more than that, if your getting a reading of 12.4 on idle that means it's not charging at all (presuming the battery is charged) and should be kicking out more like 14-14.5 above idle. You could try taking a reading with the engine running and lights on.

Also you can check continuity on the regulator and stator, have a search of youtube for some how to videos. ..

If it ends up being your regulator you can look at upgrading from a shunt type to a mosfet type, again Google for more info mosfet type run cooler and are less prone to frying.

Though with a low charge like that I would be checking your stator.

Good luck!

Has anyone had to re jet after chainging exhaust systems ? I think the ZZR originally ran 2x 2 into 1 and now is a 4 into 1

Thanks for the replies guys! The valves have been checked in the last couple of months and are in spec. The air filter seems good - i bought a new one on t'net and its exactly the same.

I've just replaced one of the carb bodys as the other one was broken, so carbs may need balancing. regardless, it should be running better than it is...

Heya guys. The issues i've had with the bike is (even with the pilot fuel screw turned out 4 full turns) it screams on choke, which cant be any good for anything.It also doesn't like to tick over when its warm meaning constant throttle blipping in traffic. If it then stalls it can be a pain to start and sometimes i have to choke it.

hesitates to rev off of tick over. This has clearly been an issue before me as someone had screwed the fuel screws about 5 turns out before I got to it.

The plugs are all about the same colour on each cylinder.. so i'm not sure that its an individual carb playing up

Dont get me wrong the bike can be ridden, but i use it for longish distance commuting so want to get it sorted..

The jets are stock sizes. I have'nt check float heights yet. I'm thinking either the airbox is warped and not sealing properly, or the filter element is'nt stock and letting it a lot more air - though like i said it revs up fine so im not sure to be honest.

Ive tried a vacuum test with easy start but couldn't find anything immediately, will try again.

Hey all, I've got a zzr600 which I've taken off of the road to sort a few things and get ready for an MOT.

One of the issues I have is that the bike runs lean on tick over, confirmed this by checking the plugs. I've turned the pilot fuel screws upto 4.5 turns out and it still runs lean. I've sprayed easy start around the intake when the bike was running and didn't notice anything straight away, so I'm pretty sure it's not a vacuum leak... I'll have a more thorough go on it again though. The only thing not stock on the bike is a 4-1 exhaust system which is road legal (so has some baffling). Would this make that much of a difference to fueling ? The jets are all factory so haven't been changed yet.

Any advice would be great fully received !

Thanks